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broken convertible top [Merged 5-7] Spyder convert vert

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You wouldn't hear the motors if the switch was off. Are you sure you didn't switch them and they are properly installed with the gears engaged?

You can test them when removed by energizing them and testing the resistance by holding the gear with pliers. It has a LOT of torque. If not then you either didn't install the pins properly or something else has failed, but I have not experienced any motor failures except the pins.
 
im positive that i didnt swap them because i did only one motor at a time, and i did give one of them power before i fully installed it to make sure it was going to spin, but it did not spin fast... is that normal? now as for the right motor i did not check to see, but if one was working wouldnt half of the top go down
 
Yes, they spin slowly. And there is enough friction so that they spin even with broken pins. Test the resistance.
 
ok i will attempt again but on sunday... question tho how would u know if the pins are completely in, where they supposed to be, and do the pins have to be completely flat on the side going into the gear?
 
No, they don't have to be flat. The length should be approximately the width of the gear base diameter.
 
crap so through the motor there is one complete pin throught the whole thing?? for some reason the coat hanger wire wouldnt pass the middle and i dont even thing all of the factory pin came out then i did not use a punch would that matter? how can i get the pin all the way through it seems like its not going to budge... any suggestions?
 
to get the broken pin out all you do is take the assebly apart.. turn the gear part so it lines up with the hole inside get a smal nail & a hammer & nail it out..(make sure the holes are lined up befor hammering the mofo) dont replace the pin with a cloth hanger or nail.. ill just break again in a week.I just used an old drill bit end..(the end that fits into the drill:.. just find one that fits & saw the bit to length.

also make sure when you put everything together, that you get the right motor on the right side or else one side will be closing & the other will be opening
 
sorry for the ghettoness of the picture.. but just a rought idea how to remove the broken gearpin
 

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o0o but does it turn with ease? when it was off it didnt seem to want to budge, im guessing using pliers and applying full force rite? or should it be hard?
 
if its the gear pin than it should turn with ease.. but maybe u have a different problem.. make sure b4 u mess up a perfectly good $400 top motor
 
Well im going to attempt this again today... i made a bit of a screw up last time. Im guessing it should have a bit of resistance but i think i will be able to get that turn. I guess im goin go have to use the coathanger thing... im not sure how to even start with a drill bit :-\... ill let u guys know how it turns out...
 
guys the pin in the middle doesnt wanna come out.. i am pounding it with a hammer and still geez what can i do??
 
I have a 97 GS-T Spyder. The top will not work. When you push the button the windows go down and the motors click but it won't go down. If there is direct power to the motors it goes down, but not up. I had a guy who said he could fix it try and all I got was windows that I can't get up, a top that won't work and lots of armor all. I am a female and not stupid but he took me for a ride. If anyone can help please let me know. Thanks
 
That's a tough one as your new problems sound much worse than your original. The relays that power the top motors can be bypassed/relaced but this will not help if you've got other wires crossed. Any chance of getting the wrong doer to undo it? It might take hours for a mechanic to troubleshoot it.
 
I don't think that it is the motors. I don't hear them running, I just hear the relay clicking. I got a new control panel and it does the same thing the old one does. Thank you for the suggestions. Hopefully someone had this problem also and knows what to do.
 
i know this is a longshot but check in the trunk to see if it is on manual or automatic, my car did the same thing before i bought it all the windows would go down but the top would just humm and not go back....just saying try the simple things before you try the expensive things :confused:

hope im understanding what your saying :)
 
If you can hear the clicking, then the signal voltage is getting from the control switch to the relay in the back, at least for one side of the switch.

I have not worked on this aspect of the system but logically there should be two signal wires for the two contact positions of the control switch, one for up and one for down. It is also likely that there are two separate relays. If you hear clicking in both the up and down position of the control switch, you should focus your investigation on the voltage going to the motors with different switch positions. The relays should provide voltage to the motors in both switch positions but opposite.
 
gstspyda97 said:
i know this is a longshot but check in the trunk to see if it is on manual or automatic, my car did the same thing before i bought it all the windows would go down but the top would just humm and not go back....just saying try the simple things before you try the expensive things :confused:

hope im understanding what your saying :)

Good point. That's usually one of the first things I recommend. I spaced it this time.
Thanks gstspyda97
 
I have this same EXACt problem. I was talking with wret about it a month or so ago, we couldn't figure out much other than that the relays could be bad. Does anyone know the specs of the relays and where they are located?
 
SAME problem here too. All i get is clicking on the relays. I get no motor noise or anything. Almost like they arentgetting any power. I checked all fuses and they are fine. My next test is gonna be check if there is power to the motors. Then its off to the dealer ship to spend a cool grand. :(
 
ok guys i am attacking the motors again after a long break i actually took off the top gear to check and see if it will come out easier, both side are now exposed nothing in front of either and they jus dont want to budge the pin stuck in the middle seems stuck to the sides for some reason? would anyone know what i can do?
 
i had the same problem with with getting the middle of the pin out, what i did is i took a drill bit slightly smaller than the hole, lined everything up and drilled right through the middle of the pin, once you drill through it you can punch whats left of the pin out with ease, and another thought, when i replaced the pin i drilled the pin hole out to a slightly larger diameter and put the end of a drill bit(the solid part) in there, therfore it allows you to use a slightly stronger pin, theres my $.02, hope it helps
 
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