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ECMlink breaking up under boost

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sexystover

10+ Year Contributor
202
0
Nov 6, 2008
allentown, New_Jersey
hey guys, i installed link today, set base fuel pressure, timing all that jazzz, tuned idle pretty well and did some cruise logs and used the maf comp, but i cant get the car to run well in boost, i tried pulling timing with slider, and even changing the max oct timing table along with getting my fuel to be ~11.0 during boost and it still just breaks up bad as soon as boost hits, any help appreciated, BoostEST is around within 2psi of actual boost, MBC turned all the way down.

will update mods list now, and cant upload my cruise log its too big

mods list up to date, can email cruise log if needed, only thing im noticing from my breakup log is my timing drops as rpms climb, not sure if thats what caused the knock or the 11.8 AFR which clearly needs to be richened up a little , peak boost is 18psi despite the 20psi in the log, no map sensor to log unfortunately
 

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hey guys, i installed link today, set base fuel pressure, timing all that jazzz, tuned idle pretty well and did some cruise logs and used the maf comp, but i cant get the car to run well in boost, i tried pulling timing with slider, and even changing the max oct timing table along with getting my fuel to be ~11.0 during boost and it still just breaks up bad as soon as boost hits, any help appreciated, BoostEST is around within 2psi of actual boost, MBC turned all the way down.

will update mods list now, and cant upload my cruise log its too big

mods list up to date, can email cruise log if needed, only thing im noticing from my breakup log is my timing drops as rpms climb, not sure if thats what caused the knock or the 11.8 AFR which clearly needs to be richened up a little , peak boost is 18psi despite the 20psi in the log, no map sensor to log unfortunately

What plugs are you running and what are they gapped at? It could be something as easy as spark blow out. Also, if you are breaking up, that could be what is causing the "knock" and thus dropping your timing as well.
 
bpr7es gapped at .028

cars timing drops before it registers knock, and the car ran fine on the old 850cc chip i had with no breakup issues at 18psi just would knock above 6k due to the timing being to aggresive since it was for my old 14b

picture of sparkplug attached, all 4 looked exactly the same after the drive home and 2 pulls
 

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step down to the 6es and stay at the same gap. I did that on mine, helped out a ton.

looks like its getting real hot try the 6es same gap
 
BPR6's are hotter, for his setup BPR7's are fine. Try closing the gap a bit and see.

Also, your MinOct tables are drastically lower than you MaxOct tables. As far as timing tables it only needs to be a tad lower. I can't look at your log now but if I recall it starts to dropping right before the knock because you have the table setup that way too. Still shouldn't break up because of that. Try a slightly lower gap. Make sure the plug wires are all securely connected into the plug itself and onto the coil pack.
 
whoops thanks for the correction, dont want to give bad info out. Yea try running the car at night time to see if plug wires are arcing.
 
whoops thanks for the correction, dont want to give bad info out. Yea try running the car at night time to see if plug wires are arcing.

Many times wires can come a bit lose at the coil plug or are not pushed down completely onto the plug itself. Seen it happen sooooo many times. Definitely from the picture it gives you the impression that the plug is too hot. I ran 7's with way more boost and a bigger turbo just at a smaller gap and had no issues with the plug being too hot. I now run 8's because of my current setup and fuel, only reason why. So yeah, 7's are perfectly fine for him, but because the car is breaking up his AFR's obviously at that point lean out and the lean spikes could be causing the "too hot" look on the plug.
 
Many times wires can come a bit lose at the coil plug or are not pushed down completely onto the plug itself.
+1 :thumb:

OP, if you haven't changed your plug wires in a long time, it might be a good idea to do that. I've had break up problems due to faulty wires. Also, perhaps you should consider running non-projected (BR7ES) plugs?
 
thanks guys, had someone else look at my log/tune and he said it was jacked up, I was trying to compensate for the rich dip in the beginning by pulling fuel with the sliders but he said that was a no no , so ill be regapping my plugs, getting new NGK wires and he sent me over a "base" file to start with so hopefully I can get this sorted out

sorry for double post but heres two new logs, breakup is gone, new plug wires, found my maf translater wasnt zeroed out, so i zeroed it and redid my cruising and idle but now she knocks once i hit full spool, BOOSTest is not accurate its still climbing but im at 18psi at 4500

the knock 4 log i tried pulling a little more timing but it didnt help
 

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No need to use sliders, but in all honesty people went really fast and made tons of power with Link V2 and that ONLY had sliders. Your problem was either plug wires / plugs / MAF Translator settings. Glad you made some progress though man :)
 
thanks guys, had someone else look at my log/tune and he said it was jacked up,

Glad you got it sorted out, but it still looks a little shakey. A couple of things that jump out immediately to me are:
- You're throwing a 0012 volume airflow code. Sounds like your maf connection, wiring, etc...were you previously running an S-AFC?
- You're maf table looks elevated in the lower frequency range, which can be a tell-tale sign of an exhuast leak. Might want to check for that.

Also, good job moving away from "slider dependency" Now just apply it to the timing :D
 
Glad you got it sorted out, but it still looks a little shakey. A couple of things that jump out immediately to me are:
- You're throwing a 0012 volume airflow code. Sounds like your maf connection, wiring, etc...were you previously running an S-AFC?
- You're maf table looks elevated in the lower frequency range, which can be a tell-tale sign of an exhuast leak. Might want to check for that.

Also, good job moving away from "slider dependency" Now just apply it to the timing :D

His profile says "SAFC Zeroed out". I really hope that's not in the car and that the MAF input wire to the ECU was connected back together, if not that's the reason for the code.
 
it was still connected but as per advice of a friend i ripped it out and redid the ecu connection , i also regapped my plugs and did wires, car doesnt break up since i ripped out that POS boost controller i had, it was causing the car to build boost eradicly and couldnt get it below 18, now it holds 12psi steady and doesnt break up, i also adjusted the maf table so my boostEST matches actual boost between 5-5.5k but i have a new issue. when WOT even if my boost EST matches actual boost, my AFR is richer then in my DA table , i cant find any boost leaks but im wondering what could be causing this, im requesting 11.5 on the DA but it reads ~9:1
 
but im wondering what could be causing this

A couple of things that jump out immediately to me are:
- You're throwing a 0012 volume airflow code. Sounds like your maf connection, wiring, etc...were you previously running an S-AFC?
- You're maf table looks elevated in the lower frequency range, which can be a tell-tale sign of an exhuast leak. Might want to check for that.

:hmm:
 
it was still connected but as per advice of a friend i ripped it out and redid the ecu connection , i also regapped my plugs and did wires, car doesnt break up since i ripped out that POS boost controller i had, it was causing the car to build boost eradicly and couldnt get it below 18, now it holds 12psi steady and doesnt break up, i also adjusted the maf table so my boostEST matches actual boost between 5-5.5k but i have a new issue. when WOT even if my boost EST matches actual boost, my AFR is richer then in my DA table , i cant find any boost leaks but im wondering what could be causing this, im requesting 11.5 on the DA but it reads ~9:1

Have you actually done a boost leak test?
 
boost leak test was performed, changed plugs out for new BR7ES gapped at .022, removed boost controller , recalibrated wideband, and completely started over on the tune, the car now pull strong with no issues . installed a different MBC and turned it up to 15psi, car still runs good, not sure what my exacgt issue was but its gone now and im happy. i need to replace my coupler on the turbo outlet since it was damaged by the rad fan but other then that im happy and will be turning the boost up to roughly 20psi once i replace the coupler
 
boost leak test was performed, changed plugs out for new BR7ES gapped at .022, removed boost controller , recalibrated wideband, and completely started over on the tune, the car now pull strong with no issues . installed a different MBC and turned it up to 15psi, car still runs good, not sure what my exacgt issue was but its gone now and im happy. i need to replace my coupler on the turbo outlet since it was damaged by the rad fan but other then that im happy and will be turning the boost up to roughly 20psi once i replace the coupler

That's how things come out the best, do them right. Glad you got it sorted out (or at least it seems so). Keep us posted if any other issues buddy, happy boosting! :thumb:
 
thanks i need to get my PCV system under control now, keep forcing oil out the dipstick under boost, new PCV valve helped a bit but it still does it in high RPMs, im goign to try and source a valve cover with larger breather ports to run a catch can setup.
 
Holly low timing out of boost. Bet the car is a turd off boost right now compared to what it could be... .:| @ 3k and you lowest load cell your at 10* lower timing then stock...
 
Holly low timing out of boost. Bet the car is a turd off boost right now compared to what it could be... .:| @ 3k and you lowest load cell your at 10* lower timing then stock...

Indeed. Wonder if there was any specific reason why it was done that way? :confused:

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Yikes!WTF Seems like a case of smoothing > function.
 
The factory 1g timing map is notorious for being advanced, so when comparing his against it, it looks pretty drastic. It's not AS bad when compared to a 2g or an evo 8 map, however it is indeed low...

OP, the factory timing maps are pretty good outside of WOT. I suggest running a factory 2g timing map and adjusting only WOT cells. You can see which ones these are by tracking your datalog or with LinkTools if you're cool :cool:
 
The factory 1g timing map is notorious for being advanced, so when comparing his against it, it looks pretty drastic. It's not AS bad when compared to a 2g or an evo 8 map, however it is indeed low...

OP, the factory timing maps are pretty good outside of WOT. I suggest running a factory 2g timing map and adjusting only WOT cells. You can see which ones these are by tracking your datalog or with LinkTools if you're cool :cool:

I find a stock 2G timing map to be a great starting point overall for most users. However, 1G or not, his table is low compared to what you can run.
 
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