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1G Brake booster delete

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I havent see many deletes on the booster in over 25 years on our cars, my friend has one. But i rarely know anyone who has deleted it.
 
My FWD is drag racing only and I’ve had mine deleted few years now. The track I run US131 has pretty long shut down and I’ve never had problem stopping car. Definitely have to step on pedal more but that’s about it. Believe my new master cylinder is of a 3g eclipse
 
What's the desired advantage? Just the weight of the booster? Obviously A/C delete, and perhaps P/S are higher on the list, as is deleting most of the interior. All pretty simple. Booster will loose you a few pounds, probably. I would think using the smallest diameter MC is best. I think the 3G is actually larger bore. You want more pedal stroke for to move a given amount of brake fluid to the calipers, not less. A smaller diameter bore gives less displacement for a given travel. More mechanical advantage, like a longer lever, trade distance for force. My original 1990 gsx has a 15/16", and later ones had 1'. I think 3G is 1-1/16".
If you have a 1GB, you might actually consider the reverse front brake swap, placing the smaller, single piston calipers and smaller diameter rotors for the later (92.5+) twin pistons. That would remove both total weight and rotating mass. Also a bolt on deal w/ factory parts. Probably easy to obtain from Performance Partout, or similar salvage (or WTB classified).
After that you can look for plexi windows, etc.
Drag racing is probably the best forum to see the effects of even small improvements, because the timing is so precise. Not that skill isn't important, but averaging several runs after a change to the vehicle is fairly conclusive (of course even the ambient temp and barometer have an effect). Good luck; go fast!
 
What's the desired advantage? Just the weight of the booster? Obviously A/C delete, and perhaps P/S are higher on the list, as is deleting most of the interior. All pretty simple. Booster will loose you a few pounds, probably. I would think using the smallest diameter MC is best. I think the 3G is actually larger bore. You want more pedal stroke for to move a given amount of brake fluid to the calipers, not less. A smaller diameter bore gives less displacement for a given travel. More mechanical advantage, like a longer lever, trade distance for force. My original 1990 gsx has a 15/16", and later ones had 1'. I think 3G is 1-1/16".
If you have a 1GB, you might actually consider the reverse front brake swap, placing the smaller, single piston calipers and smaller diameter rotors for the later (92.5+) twin pistons. That would remove both total weight and rotating mass. Also a bolt on deal w/ factory parts. Probably easy to obtain from Performance Partout, or similar salvage (or WTB classified).
After that you can look for plexi windows, etc.
Drag racing is probably the best forum to see the effects of even small improvements, because the timing is so precise. Not that skill isn't important, but averaging several runs after a change to the vehicle is fairly conclusive (of course even the ambient temp and barometer have an effect). Good luck; go fast!
Honestly doing it for weight loss
The car currently has stm drag brakes just looking of other options to loose weight. Lexan is definitely on the list. Thanks for the feedback
 
Although my car is strictly street, I did a custom setup using a Wilwood master cylinder and a adjustable proportioning valve from chase bays. I did have to run custom lines and buy a connecting link that fits the Wilwood master, but overall it wasn’t that bad.
Pros - the brake pedal feels really good, not overly hard or soft.
Cleans up the engine bay
Not that expensive
Wilwood master cylinder is rebuildable
You can adjust how much bias goes to the front or rear.

Cons-
Requires some custom work
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Sweet! Looks great, and that is a very reputable brand. Do you happen to know the bore size? You’ve really got the whole bay very neat and tidy. It appears you now have the split for front/rear, but no longer dual/diagonal. Wonder if that would pass some states’ inspection. Stock calipers, or other?

I can’t find your throttle cable?!!
 
Although my car is strictly street, I did a custom setup using a Wilwood master cylinder and a adjustable proportioning valve from chase bays. I did have to run custom lines and buy a connecting link that fits the Wilwood master, but overall it wasn’t that bad.
Pros - the brake pedal feels really good, not overly hard or soft.
Cleans up the engine bay
Not that expensive
Wilwood master cylinder is rebuildable
You can adjust how much bias goes to the front or rear.

Cons-
Requires some custom work
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Your 2g is a work of art ! Very clean setup man
 
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