Bottom line on 14B to 20G TDO6SL2 upgrade?

[BlueArcher]

I want to send my 14B to Turbo Lab and have them turn it in to a 20G (maybe billet?) with a TDO6SL2 turbune.

I would like to hear from people that have actually run this setup or some of the awesome guys that post in Turbo Tech. I have read a lot of threads this week but it is hard to get a feel for current thoughts since many of them are 2-3 years old.

Looking for a 350-380 HP on 93 octane, reliable, streetable driver. I want something with good spool (3500-3700?) and good midrange that can also maintain boost approaching factory redline. I am not trying to be a world beater at the top end, or shift at 8000, I just want it to breathe better than stock. Also don't want to push the turbo to it's limits.

Want to build a car I can rely on and enjoy, and that is more important than gaudy numbers.

Does this setup make sense, or am I sounding crazy?

 

[GST Jeremy]

how much do they charge? why not get a big 16g? that would get u close to your horsepower goals

 

[Slavonic]

TDO6SL2-20G will be to laggy after 14b. It will spool 4000+
What turbine housing do you have. Stock 6cm from 14b is a bottle neck for TDO6SL2

 

[94awdcoupe]

I agree the 20g will be laggy compared to 14b. but dont agree 6cm housing would be a bottle neck. I would push to have the 6cm housing machined no matter how bad of shape you think its in. would also recommend a billet 19c wheel. the billet 19c is the nicest billet design I have yet seen from KTS. will kill a stock mitsu 20g wheel in every category. biggest being far more fun. faster spool, more power sooner, easily capable of 350 pump gas and 450 all out. will perform pretty much like first gen 68hta turbos that everyone loves.

 

[BlueArcher]

Good input thanks. @GST Jeremy , they quoted me $550 for the rebuild plus upgrade (I think that included the billet 20G wheel, but I need to clarify). The prices are so reasonable, I would not dream of outright buying a 16G. They can pretty much put any wheel in there, so I am not married to the 20G. I just want to meet the objectives I outlined above and I am trying to figure out if it is possible with a modified 14B.

@94awdcoupe if he can source a 19C wheel, are you still recommending the TDO6SL2 or something else?

 

[familyMAN]

I'd support Justin here on the forum for td05 rebuild/upgrades.

 

[YUPOK]

I would definitely contact Justin first to get some guidance and see if maybe he has something in stock already.

The 19C is a unique wheel to use and will give you the spool point your looking for and still carry into the upper RPM. It's also still associated with the TDO5 so you may be able to work with the parts you have.

 

[GST with PSI]

I'd grab a blown E316G rather than trying to retrofit a 14b. You can also just look for a E316G bearing housing. An SL2 20G is overkill for a 350-380 hp goal, IMO. An Evo 3 16G would get you where you want to be, and you wouldn't be sacrificing any spool.

Alternatively, you could build a TDO5H bastard 20G and be somewhere in the middle of a SL2 20G and E316G. Take your standard E316G, pull it apart and rebuild it. In the process, pair the TDO5H turbine up with whatever flavor of 20G compressor you prefer (cast, billet, whatever). You'll have a bolt-up stock frame turbo capable of a few more lbs/min up top, with a minimal decrease in spool.

If you go with a typical cast 20G wheel, you can do the rebuild and upgrade yourself for around $250 (assuming you already have a good E316G, not retrofitting a 14b). The rebuild process is super simple. Personally, I don't recommend the fancy billet 20G wheels paired up with the TDO5H turbine because the cost simply outweighs actual gains, but, everyone has their own opinion.

I've outlined much of what I'm saying here in more detail: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/which-turbine-shaft.496907/#post-153542435

I'm currently running a TDO5H bastard 20G on my Galant as we speak. The bastard 20G performs, and for the cost, it's hard to beat. I've logged over 40lbs/min @ only ~26psi, I've ran it at multiple track outings, and it spools just a quick as any E316G I've ever had on a car. This all comes from my own personal experience, not pulled out of my ass or from the internet somewhere.

Lastly, if you decide not to do the upgrade/rebuild on your own, I'd highly recommend you talk to Justin first. Not only is he a long time supporting member of the community, but he's well know for his outstanding work. I'd shoot Justim a PM before you decided to go with Turbolab: http://www.dsmtuners.com/members/jusmx141.60709/

 

[BlueArcher]

Appreciate the detailed response. I will take it all in to account. Probably won't make a move until spring, I have some maintenance/reliability work to do before I start upgrading the turbo.

 

[guseclipse]

I run a 68hta on my other car. I will recommend it to you. Spools quick and has room for growth. Also looks stock. Pretty sure I have seen some older 68hta for sale on here for the price your gonna spend. Can't go wrong with fp.

 

[chinola69]

Had my 14b upgraded to a 20g 11 blade with a ported 7cm. Haven't been able to run it as of yet. But my goals are the same as yours and should be able to there np. Also running external off 02 PR housing to be exact.

 

[GST with PSI]

Had my 14b upgraded to a 20g 11 blade with a ported 7cm. Haven't been able to run it as of yet. But my goals are the same as yours and should be able to there np. Also running external off 02 PR housing to be exact.

Looks good. Who did the work, and how much did the whole thing set you back?

 

[chinola69]

Looks good. Who did the work, and how much did the whole thing set you back?

Turbolab did the turbo. Don't remember exactly how much they charged. They also did the port work on the hotside and removed the flapper. Are you asking whole thing with the o2, mani, everything?

 

[GST with PSI]

No, just the cost to convert the turbo.

 

[94awdcoupe]

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this is the billet 19c I like. awesome design. next to MHI 20g
I will be trying it with factory 12blade 6h wheel in bored 6cm housing.

 

[My1GLaser]

The 6SL2 turbine was disappointing in my 18g I ran a few years back. Full boost at about 3800-3900rpms. My 7 blade .55A/R HX-35 hit 28 psi at 3800 rpm with much more lb/min airflow.

I'd let Justin build the turbo if you're not doing it yourself!

 

[honda_burner]

http://www.forcedperformance.net/me...uct_Code=NTDSMFP68HTA&Category_Code=DSM-Turbo

For a few bucks more you can get this new shiny unit, and it will easily out perform your 20g conversion.

 

[JusMX141]

Bottom line- if you're sending a 14B anywhere to be "converted" to a TD06SL2 20G, to do it properly they'll be throwing away everything except the bearing housing which will be getting machined.

Sell your 14B and buy a new TD06SL2 20G, or perhaps grab a 68HTA while they're on sale as either of those would be a much-better financial option being that a working 14B is worth around $100 which is more than a new bearing housing will cost.