The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support Rix Racing

boost with no go?!?!?!?!

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

i put the boost leakt tester on my turbo inlet regulated down to 15 psi but i couldnt "inflate my system,

This means you have a large leak somewhere, you should be able to hold pressure for at least 10 seconds.

I have never had to manually set ATDC, if you suspect its leaking out the valves turn it over once(after you take your tester off the turbo), there isn't a lot of overlap on turbo cams.

If you can only build 10 psi, I suspect you have a large leak somewhere, I was boosting to 22 psi (14B) with many leaks.

I have had large leaks when the compressor cover o-ring dry rotted, and the TB shafts seals wore out.
 
I would pull out the plugs, and at least clean and gap them to .028
Or just splurge and get 4 new NGK's for 8 bucks. These cars go through plugs like no other haha. Its worth a shot to try something cheap first. When I bought my car it wouldn't go over 4000 rpm. I changed out the crappy BOSCH plugs and it was FIXED!

Also I noticed you are AUTO. Are you sure you are not leaving out of the hole in second gear? When the Tranny's TCU goes into LIMP mode it will START the car in second gear. If you are starting in second it will still probably BOOST but it won't take off as fast.

I can tell you that pulling your car up to a curb and applying the BRAKES and Gas to boost it is about the FASTEST way to smoke a torque converter/Tranny. I would NEVER EVER do that to your car ever again.
 
If you "go through plugs like no other" your probaly are running too rich, I've never had to replace them... just re-gap'd them, besides when there was a dent in one... from a valve....ROFL
 
If you "go through plugs like no other" your probaly are running too rich, I've never had to replace them... just re-gap'd them, besides when there was a dent in one... from a valve....ROFL

I like to change my plugs very often. They are Cheap, so I play it safe. I'd rather buy 8 dollar plugs than a new engine.

I had Bosch Platnums in my car from the person I bought it from and they went bad in a few weeks?!?!? I dont now why but I'M definately NOT they only one that has happened to.

I always start with the cheap stuff FIRST and work my way up when fixing a car. It NEVER hurts TO CHANGE plugs. I have seen people change plugs after EVERY run down the track.

If you have "NEVER had to change them" I would say you NEED to ASAP. You can only gap them SO much. I know I wouldn't want to take that chance...unless 8 dollars breaks your bank.

I don't wait for the car to stop running to change my plugs. although the car may still run with OLD plugs, it can GREATLY reduce performance. Like I said my car was breaking up and studdering till I changed my plugs.

How the hell do you dent a spark plug with a valve?!?!?!?!
 
This means you have a large leak somewhere, you should be able to hold pressure for at least 10 seconds.

I have never had to manually set ATDC, if you suspect its leaking out the valves turn it over once(after you take your tester off the turbo), there isn't a lot of overlap on turbo cams.

If you can only build 10 psi, I suspect you have a large leak somewhere, I was boosting to 22 psi (14B) with many leaks.

I have had large leaks when the compressor cover o-ring dry rotted, and the TB shafts seals wore out.

i can boost more if i put the boost controller on, it will go over 20, but now i have it stock at the gate. i checked my plugs, they r fine
 
what could make the car do this only when its warmed up or in closed loop mode? it never hessitates when its cold. and my autometer doesnt match my stock gauge its higher. i am o stumped
 
The stock gauge is just an ecu calculation of what your boost is. I know in my car I can build boost, but I have a bad case of phantom knock once that happens I'll be at 10 psi, but my knock will be causing my timing to be retarded. Do you have a logger or anything of that sort?
 
no, i wish i had alogger. i have trouble saving money for my car with my girlfriend. but i have about $300 saved for dsmlink. im almost there. im a caterpillar technician and she works at starbucks. so i pay everything :( but this problem with my car is buggin the hell outta me.
it is not:
-boost leak
-egr malfunction
-fuel pump
-a/f ratio
-spark plugs and wires
-turbo
-exhaust leak
-vacume leak

those are what ive tested. but i did run it with the knock sensor unplugged which will retard i know but the symptom didnt change. oh and im getting about 11 miles per gallon
 
yesterday i was checking my wires again and in one of my coil packs the inside was worn out and there was black coal like powder in there. i think i may have found my problem
 
Hey, Have you resolved the problem yet??

I was having a problem like this but it was that as soon I past the 10psi of boost the fuel pressure fell down. The car sputters and stopped boosting, and my WB read from 11.4 to 15.3 instantly. I founded this out because I have a fuel pressure gauge inside of my car. If you have an fp gauge check it out while boosting. When I was cleaning the filter of the fuel pump, I founded out that one of the yellow cables on top of the fuel pump was no making contact, I welded it and problem resolved. Before this the fuel pump was making a loud sound and now it is very quiet.
 
mine only does it when its warmed up, the most. and its whenever i boost. i can floor it and it will downshift and boost up and go until i hit fuel cut. it still boost normally . if i try to normally accelerate it stutters and revs up verry slowly until about 3200 rpm. im pretty sure its my coil.... i hope


another thought.i was considering a coil on plug set up since im gonna replace my coils. what are the different coils i can use? i know the 300m/intrepid ones are common. but why do you need toyota connectors instead of the origonal ones?
 
Wait, wait, wait...are you really trying to "troubleshoot" by adding variables? I hope you don't do any sort of support role for a job...
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top