The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support Rix Racing

Boost problems...

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DSMcrazy3

N/T DSM Wiseman
DSM Wiseman
2,196
61
Dec 29, 2004
Humble, Texas
Alright I'm back...I checked all my clamps, tight as can be. Checked all of my vaccum lines...(as far as I know) they were all tight.

Well when I'm at idle, if I rev. the engine then my boost gauge will 0 out but the higher I rev. the gauge will begin to read vaccum again, like it goes, 0....1....2....3 and by that time I'd be at the redline...Anyone know what could lead to this?
 
DSMcrazy3 said:
Alright I'm back...I checked all my clamps, tight as can be. Checked all of my vaccum lines...(as far as I know) they were all tight.

Well when I'm at idle, if I rev. the engine then my boost gauge will 0 out but the higher I rev. the gauge will begin to read vaccum again, like it goes, 0....1....2....3 and by that time I'd be at the redline...Anyone know what could lead to this?


damn it's been a long time since I've driven my AWD. IIRC that is normal. It levels out because you are probably no longer "smashing" on the gas and have let up a bit closing the throttle plate, not spooling the turbo and letting it create a vacuum again.
 
DSMcrazy3 said:
Nope, no letting up on the gas..WOT.

Is there anyway a bad PCV could cause this?

a stuck PCV valve, would give any "boost" your trying to build a way to get out, or maybe your engine is just simply eating it up :)

Check your PCV valve by pulling it out and blowing into it to see if you can. If you can it's bad. If you can't its fine :)
 
Well I took it out, and I shook it, and it clicked like something was loose, then I tried to blow in the side that if air was getting out of the intake it would go through, and I could easily blow through both sides...So does that mean I need a new PCV?
 
DSMcrazy3 said:
Well I took it out, and I shook it, and it clicked like something was loose, then I tried to blow in the side that if air was getting out of the intake it would go through, and I could easily blow through both sides...So does that mean I need a new PCV?
yup :thumb: when you drive your car does it boost?
 
yes, and i bet it is not very good to pressurize your crank case either. i might be wrong but i do remember that people that have a hose running from the ic pipe to the breather have problems. and with a bad pcv valve that does the same thing. be careful
 
Yeah, I'll replace that tomorrow, do you know about how much it will cost to get one though? I've heard i'm supposed to check it in some way before I buy it or something.

Would it be ok to cap off the manifold nipple to see if I build boost then?

Would that also cause the gauge not to 0 out totally sometimes..Sorry for all the ?'s these are just things I ran into and wanna see if this is causing them all...
 
Tightening clamps doesn't mean you have a boost leak. Do a boost leak test, pump 20 psi into your intake tract. Afterwards see if it holds for 30 seconds. Thats your boost leak test. Thats what OLDMAN would say LOL.
 
Ultimatedsm said:
Tightening clamps doesn't mean you have a boost leak. Do a boost leak test, pump 20 psi into your intake tract. Afterwards see if it holds for 30 seconds. Thats your boost leak test. Thats what OLDMAN would say LOL.

I know that, but we aren't talking about a leak test anymore right now. I know it should be done, but with my PCV being broken that could be causing all of my problems. So I will replace it, and see what happens.
 
last time i purchased a pcv valve it was like 4$.

im sure you have some kind of crankcase breather you dont really dont have to worry about the case being pressureized as the air will escape out the breather.

The test of a new PCV valve is the same as you did on the old one. It Should rattle around as their is a ball inside it is suppose to.

you can cap off the manifold nipple, but if you have no vent on the valve cover any pressure in the valve cover area will build up and you could blow a seal. What do other N/T guys do about the weak plastic PCV valve on the N/T's? Unless you upgrade it I would imagine it will happen more often.
 
Yeah I have a little breather on the VC where the hose use to run from the intake to the Valve cover.

So you think if I get a PCV it will go out too? Is it possible to just get a GS-T pcv? Or is that a stupid question. I guess I haven't really heard of anyone else who turbo'd their 420A having this problem.

Also the PCV being bad would cause a rediculously slow spool time correct?
 
DSMcrazy3 said:
Yeah I have a little breather on the VC where the hose use to run from the intake to the Valve cover.

So you think if I get a PCV it will go out too? Is it possible to just get a GS-T pcv? Or is that a stupid question. I guess I haven't really heard of anyone else who turbo'd their 420A having this problem.

Also the PCV being bad would cause a rediculously slow spool time correct?

I was pretty sure you had a breather :)

I would assume the shitty plastic PCV's that come on the esi's won't take the pressure for too long. You could try another one and see how long it takes, personally I would try to find a metal one that I could adapt to it.

Ofcoarse it will cause slow spool as your boost is being pushed into your valve cover.
 
rowlex said:
Ofcoarse it will cause slow spool as your boost is being pushed into your valve cover.

GOOD haha, b/c I've been getting full boost at 6k rpm in 3rd gear haha. I thought that was pretty powerful too..Guess I've got somethin comin' huh!

Thanks for all of your help. Rowlex, you could have just gotten on AIM and talked to me there!!

Anyways if a PCV is like 5 bucks I'll just get a new one to make sure that was my prob.
 
DSMcrazy3 said:
Thanks for all of your help. Rowlex, you could have just gotten on AIM and talked to me there!!


LOL no prob, I'm at work and trying not to bring my laptop in anymore to stop me from goofing off too much (working well huh?). I am unable to install AIM on the work comp ;)
 
Well I got a new PCV, before I put it on I tried to blow through it, and I could, it wasn't as easy as my old one, but I could still blow through it. I put it on, and got nothin, still no boost...Did I buy a bad one?
 
Where did u buy it from?
 
I drove my ESI today I'll check my PCV see what happens :)

I cant remember last time I checked a PCV valve but from what I thought, the ball was suppose to seal against the other side and not let air through at all.
 
well when I blow through the new one, not much air gets out, but some still does..Seems to me like none should. If I can blow out, wouldn't compressed air get out easier?

Later I'm going to cap off the nipple on the manifold and see if that fixes it..I'm sad..
 
you are supposed to be able to blow through a pcv valve in one direction, not both. if you shake it and hear a little ball moving, thats a good thing.

check for something else, the pcv is not your problem.

what kind of boost controller are you running? are you running an HRC/Mitsu turbo? If so, check your actuator arm to ensure its properly connected to the wastegate.
 
Well I can easily blow through the inlet, and it's alittle more tough but I can blow out the side I shouldn't be able to..Is it ok to be able to blow through it alittle bit?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top