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JiggyMiggy

Probationary Member
14
0
Jul 4, 2012
Chicago, Illinois
yuppp my timing belt broke which ####ed up every single one of the valves in 99 eclipse GST. The mechanic that came to check it out said the pistons are most likely ####ed too (I'll probably attempt to get the head off and have a look at them since he didnt). Soooo i'm just gonna buy a new engine. This is where I need your help. I am mechanically retarded. I have a friendly family mechanic that will be doing the installing while i will be watching and trying to learn.

My goals:
- Reliable DD with quite a bit of power.
- Not looking to have anything crazy. Around or under 400hp is fine

Here are my questions for you guys:

1. I know a block and head are the main components of an engine. What else would i need to buy/add-on to have a successful install?

2. What are some good places to get one from? Whether it be locally or online

3. Is this a good block to start with? Stage 1 Short Block
The max amount of HP is perfect and it's at a fairly decent price. Unless you guys can find something better and cheaper? I'm very new at this.

I'm not really trying to go the 6 bolt route seeing as how that requires a bit of customization for it to be accepted.

Any information/help would be great. Thanks guys!
 
Seems like a whole lot of money just for a stock rebuilt block. Your local machine shop can hone and hot tank your block and assemble it with new stock pistons and rods probably for a whole lot less than that crate engine.
Id build the engine myself and save the money unless your on that much for a time crunch...

Searching will yield a full list of what you need to rebuild an engine or install one.

Edit: No need to go 6 bolt you have a 99 which were revised and do not have the crank walk issues that the 95-97's have
 
i assume this post is about replacing the rods and pistons, yes? sorry, i'm a bit confused. are you doing a full on rebuild or just replacing the rods and piston?


1. I know a block and head are the main components of an engine. What else would i need to buy/add-on to have a successful install?

To meet your goal of 400hp or less, I would just get new stock pistons with 1g rods. The rods on our 2gs, aren't gonna go very far. Maybe, 325? With this kind of setup and a good rebuild, you'll be able to handle 400hp.


2. What are some good places to get one from? Whether it be locally or online

Google.


3. Is this a good block to start with? Stage 1 Short Block
The max amount of HP is perfect and it's at a fairly decent price. Unless you guys can find something better and cheaper? I'm very new at this.

If you're aiming for around 400hp, it'll be fine
 
If you are only looking for @ or under 400 just do an OE rebuild. I'm sure you could have a machine shop hone your block and install everything for the short block. For 1500 you could seriously buy a set of aftermarket rods/pistons that could handle a ton more power, you just dont need it. Spend wisely and you can have a reliable setup for much cheaper than you think.

As far as the head goes, when you pull it off check to see if the valve seats are messed up or if the head is salvageable. If it is not, buy one that you can replace the valves, seals, etc. in and build that. Make sure you pressure test it before putting it back on though.

You could honestly do this whole job for what you are looking at spending on that short block alone. I say do some leg work, use some elbow grease and be happy with your investment instead of being robbed.
 
IF none of the valves snapped off and imbedded themselves in the pistons than you can in most cases just throw a good head on it and go. There will be little marks on the valves from the pistons, just take a small file and smooth them out and run it. Also if you do need an engine a 6 bolt doesn't require any more than 20 seconds worth of modification to mount in a 2g car. It literally takes 20 seconds with a cut off wheel to the mount bracket. After that it mounts in the car just like the 7 bolt that came out.
 
Just rebuild your engine stock. It'll do fine holding the power you want. Then use the saved money for other things that you will need. Like DSMLink, etc.......
 
Lets say worst case scenario. Everything is ####ed. Would attempting to rebuild it be still a smarter choice then just buying a new block and head? I also want it to look like perfectly clean. Which is why im swaying towards just getting a whole new one. Unless thats part of the rebuild process? The head looked pretty bad... Ill get a picture tomorrow. I dont know guys. I'm confused on what to do
 
Rebuild it. Unless you windowed your block or it crank walked(shouldnt be an issue as its a 99) the block and crank should be fine. A hot tank should take care of cleaning it all up and you should be able to make it brand new. It will be a lot cheaper to rebuild it.

And you can pick up a full head for around 250 bucks in good condition usually so even if the head is screwed it'll still be cheaper!
 
When you take your engine block and head to a machinist (which you will need to do), they will be hot-tanked. The head will be look brand new and the block will be in the right condition to be painted. That will take care of everything looking brand new.

But in a worst case scenario, it might be better to buy one. If you have never rebuilt and engine before and don't consider yourself very mechanically inclined, I would suggest buying a short block, just not $2500 for a stock rebuild. Then take the head to a shop and have them do a full work up with new seals, guides, valve job, etc. Then you can just bolt everything up and drop it in.

For 1500, you can get a stock rebuilt short block from DSM Graveyard (Yes, I am aware of the old issues they had, still a good deal!)
DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

For the price SIM wants for a stock block, you could have a fully forged rotating assembly in a reconditioned short block!
http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/product_p/gm jwsb 3.htm

So it's up to your wallet and your honest mechanical abilities. But there is nothing wrong with buying a short block, just don't pay 2500 for a stock block. LOL
 
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Rebuild it. Unless you windowed your block or it crank walked(shouldnt be an issue as its a 99) the block and crank should be fine. A hot tank should take care of cleaning it all up and you should be able to make it brand new. It will be a lot cheaper to rebuild it.

And you can pick up a full head for around 250 bucks in good condition usually so even if the head is screwed it'll still be cheaper!
Around how much would it cost to get it rebuilt. In a worst case scenario ( always gotta throw that in there LOL)

When you take your engine block and head to a machinist (which you will need to do), they will be hot-tanked. The head will be look brand new and the block will be in the right condition to be painted. That will take care of everything looking brand new.

But in a worst case scenario, it might be better to buy one. If you have never rebuilt and engine before and don't consider yourself very mechanically inclined, I would suggest buying a short block, just not $2500 for a stock rebuild. Then take the head to a shop and have them do a full work up with new seals, guides, valve job, etc. Then you can just bolt everything up and drop it in.

For 1500, you can get a stock rebuilt short block from DSM Graveyard (Yes, I am aware of the old issues they had, still a good deal!)
DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

For the price SIM wants for a stock block, you could have a fully forged rotating assembly in a reconditioned short block!
DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

So it's up to your wallet and your honest mechanical abilities. But there is nothing wrong with buying a short block, just don't pay 2500 for a stock block. LOL
No i am definitely not mechanically inclined at all. I'll be saving a ton of money by getting help from a friendly mechanic. I mean id obviously save more if i did it myself but im not at that level yet. Yeah ive seen some negative feedback about dsm graveyard. U think that frankstein short block is the best in that price range for being almost stock? What's the different between the 2 7 bolts on there? Ones with flange bearing and the other has a thrust washer?
 
ID say just givr your local machine shop a call and see what the charge! Some local places will be cheaper than others some more expensive.

DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

This is a good general idea for prices but Id give your local machine shop a call. And if you live in Chicago you will have a pretty good list of reputable shops that will do it for you!

http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/product_p/gm stock2g7.htm
Piston Rod Combo stock replacement

Then you just need a Gasket kit and all your bearings and such
 
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ID say just givr your local machine shop a call and see what the charge! Some local places will be cheaper than others some more expensive.

DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

This is a good general idea for prices but Id give your local machine shop a call. And if you live in Chicago you will have a pretty good list of reputable shops that will do it for you!

alright thanks ill gather a list of them and call
 
Also you need to take into account that if you aren't so mechanically inclined its gonna cost you a fortune to have a shop install an engine for you.
 
The difference in the 2 shortblocks they offer is the thrust bearing type. The 95-96 4g63 has a one-piece thrust bearing (flanged) while the 97-99 have a 3-piece thrust bearing which is a normal bearing plus two thrust washers. You want the 97-99 option. The engine from DSM Graveyard is probably one of the best and cheapest stock rebuilds you can get. There are even some upgrades that you could do on that list that are very decently priced.

I would suggest at least tearing out and tearing down the engine yourself. Get it to a bare shortblock so you can send it in as your core. Truthfully, tearing the engine out isn't that hard. If you can turn a wrench and have a Chilton nearby, anybody could do it. But for filing ring gaps and checking oil clearances? It's something you should feel very confident about before attempting.
 
Im on the same mission need a 1 g 6 bolt or just rebuild the bottom the Rings are the only thing bad But i haven't torn it down yet also 3rd gears out :(
 
I got Manley H beams and Wiseco 9.0:1 pistons from Extreme psi for $750 and getting a shop to put it all together including the hone, cleaning, and decking will be about $300 so im in mine for probly with taxes and all $1150. And as for the head im doing all my work on my own and will save about another $500 on it just getting some new valves and springs which will run me about $400 so for a complete long block will be about $1700 with the gaskets if you do some work on your own. Its a tricky market though some people over charge 4 cylinder engines that will be making more power than the V8s they are building like a guy in my town refused my engine for this reason "I dont work on forgine piles of shit" so my reply was "so how much for my 408ci out of my Duster" he said $400 then i pissed him off saying that my 4 cylinder will be faster than my v8 with more money in it he then asked me to leave.

6 Bolt:

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=24015&cat=269&page=1

7 Bolt:

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=24016&cat=269&page=1
 
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