blew my engine now what

[fncrazy]

Ok dsm fans looking for some ideas where to start. I just blow my old worn out engine and look for what mods to do with a 2500 to 3000 dollar window. Also need a good idea on what cams to go with he set up and whwres a good place for cam I'm prety sure mine are worn out. Think of a reman but I do want to build it so if you guys have any advice stroker none stroker etc. All idea welcome thanks in advance.

 

[dsmaz]

You can do a 4g64 swap. Or get the 64 crank and stroker pistons for your 63. My favorite 4g63/64 combo is the 2.1 longrod destroker that revs to 11k.

 

[11Banger]

My favorite 4g63/64 combo is the 2.1 longrod destroker that revs to 11k.

Thats an expensive build & limits you to a 4g64 block.

I'd go with a 2.0 long rod, its basically a 2.0 but the higher rod ratio and lower rod angle means more reliability at high RPM’s.

 

[11Banger]

Also what cams you should run depends on your current/future setup

 

[BogusSVO]

With a budget of $2500-3000 you will be able to do a tad more than a stock rebuild.

H beam rod, Forged pistons new will be about $1000
Cams $300-600 depending on brand
Valve springs $100-$400, again depends on brand and if you go with Ti retainers
Decent timing belt kit $100-300, depends of you go OE or not

Tune solution, Link is what about $700?
Injectors? Turbo?

Engine machine work, for the basics about $600 or so

 

[11Banger]

Also it may/may not work for you, but there are guys selling short blocks right now. Some with miles some without. Just depends if you wanna go that route

 

[dammitcam]

Why not just get a Junkyard motor and do fuel and turbo upgrades...

 

[11Banger]

Why not just get a Junkyard motor and do fuel and turbo upgrades...

Most "junkyard" engines have been sitting in the yard collecting all types of things. That may turn out to be a bigger issue than turbo & fuel

 

[MEz]

My best advice is to build a solid engine first. Meaning throw some Forged Internals ect(like Bogus said). I highly recommend Wiseco Pistons/Eagle Rods thats $900 shipped from a reputable ebay seller, Stock crank with chafe mod on the oil galleries(if it is still good) with ACL racing bearings for the mains and rods. And ARP main and head studs laced with a cometic head gasket. A good timing belt like Gates Racing timing belt wont hurt either. Cams and other bolt-ons are easy to semi-easy to install once the motor is broken in and you have your goals steer and clear.

 

[fncrazy]

Thanks for the quick responses.I am thinking short block but like I said I will have to build the head. But all options are open at this point.I do still have the stock turbo so that may have to go. And with that comes supporting mods. Fuel exhaust etc. What companies make good cams. Looking to kinda go middle road on the mods not crazy yet but a good start with room to grow. You know.

That's what I'm talking about thanks. Now that oil journal mod any machine shop will know how to do that and thanks again.

 

[BogusSVO]

My best advice is to build a solid engine first. Meaning throw some Forged Internals ect(like Bogus said). I highly recommend Wiseco Pistons/Eagle Rods thats $900 shipped from a reputable ebay seller, Stock crank with chafe mod on the oil galleries(if it is still good) with ACL racing bearings for the mains and rods. And ARP main and head studs laced with a cometic head gasket. A good timing belt like Gates Racing timing belt wont hurt either. Cams and other bolt-ons are easy to semi-easy to install once the motor is broken in and you have your goals steer and clear.

Some good info, and some is overkill.

With the ACL race bearings, oil changes will be more frequent, about every 300-600 miles I would suggest, the embedablity of the bearings is about .005 where the "street" bearings are about .015

To fit in the budget better will be a felpro composite for about $40, wher the cometic is around $125. The felpro has been proven and still used in builds of 500HP and 30psi of boost.

Also better to pop a HG than have to replace the head/bloc/pistons is the tune goes wrong.


The Gates racing belt is a nice part, along with the other blue back belts for $130 plus. The OE EVO IX bet is kevlar reninforced and can be had for about $90

 

[n0de]

Thanks for the quick responses.I am thinking short block but like I said I will have to build the head. But all options are open at this point.I do still have the stock turbo so that may have to go. And with that comes supporting mods. Fuel exhaust etc. What companies make good cams. Looking to kinda go middle road on the mods not crazy yet but a good start with room to grow. You know.

What is your immediate power goal, and how much room to grow do you want?

 

[fncrazy]

My goal is to get close to 300hp. With room meaning like strong bottom end. That can handle up wards of 500hp I'm look to see what brands have a good rep. Really.I know it can be pricey but I have to start some where

 

[n0de]

My goal is to get close to 300hp. With room meaning like strong bottom end. That can handle up wards of 500hp I'm look to see what brands have a good rep. Really.I know it can be pricey but I have to start some where

Pair the 2.3L with a mhi 20g + 264/272 cams and it would be rowdy as hell. Of course you will more than likely have to change out your turbo if you want to hit 500hp, but the cams/block should be more than enough to get you there.

Tuning: EcmLink, Wideband
Fuel: 255 walboro, 750, 850, or 950cc injectors (750's will get you to ~350whp), AFPR
Head: Kiggly Beehive OR Manley springs (i would go beehive over manley if you have the $$$), Supertech valves

Of course you have other choices, like staying with the a stock or forged 2l block. One thing you should know is that the factory shortblock can handle 400hp (some say a little over 500), there is a local dsm'er that comes to our meets pushing just over 500awhp on a factory SB. As a matter of fact he even drove it from here (Jacksonville, FL) to Ohio for the shootout, raced, then drove it back.

If you do all of the work yourself, you might be able to fit all of this into $3000. Oh, and you'll be needed a new clutch.

 

[spadepro22]

Don't forget about gaskets, fluids, bolts, knock sensor, master cylinder, slave cylinder and all the little things that add up that are easy forgotten. I know that your on a budget, but don't cheap out on the things that are questionable that might need to be replaced. Replace them now so you don't have to go back and do it again.

 

[n0de]

Don't forget about gaskets, fluids, bolts, knock sensor, master cylinder, slave cylinder and all the little things that add up that are easy forgotten. I know that your on a budget, but don't cheap out on the things that are questionable that might need to be replaced. Replace them now so you don't have to go back and do it again.

Excellent point. These should be first on your list.

 

[fncrazy]

Update after the brilliant comment I do have to keep that in mind so I'm thinking eagle rods and good pistons(can't rememberthe name ). 272 cams and head work exhaust and bigger turbo (with supporting mods with stock ecu for now) what do you guys think on the right path? For close to 300 hp

 

[white92talontsi]

For 300 hp you do not need a built motor.

 

[DSM1491]

Dont forget that clutch and 3 inch exhaust. I have the ACT 2600 clutch. You need one that can handle the amount of torque your going to have when you tune it. If you dont your gonna be slipping like crazy. Its like 450 for the ACT 2600. Depends what brand you want though. Everybody is different. I would get one that will be able to handle a lot of torque from the start so you dont have to change it later on.

 

[11Banger]

For a goal of 300hp you could keep the stock block & spend your money on maintenance items.

 

[GSXPimp]

Yeah dont go crazy on 300hp with big internals unless you are going to build your car soon. I would hate to rack up miles on a built motor to put power on it later

 

[11Banger]

Yeah dont go crazy on 300hp with big internals unless you are going to build your car soon. I would hate to rack up miles on a built motor to put power on it later

Not necessarily. He could easily use those miles to break in the engine.

 

[GSXPimp]

Well I guess I was thinking like 15k or more before the go fast parts

 

[CoriGst120]

look into dks cams from ffwd connection the are regrinds using new billet cores they are around 400 for both with a core charge for your old ones, after doing some research on them i decided on them for my build

 

[bluehaze420a]

Everyone wants more power in the long run. I bought eagle rods for $320 and je pistons with plasma chromolly rings for $450. Also when I got my motor assembled it cost me $1000 but I had it balanced and the head ported. You can always add cams or swap on a race head later down the road. I would just get your motor back in the car so you can drive it again. If you do a basic rebuild with forged internals, upgraded bearings, upgraded timing components and anything else that needs maintenance I think you would be in budget.