2G BISS screw broke

[King_polzel]

Any good ideas of removing the biss screw broke when trying to tighten it 1g swap in a 2g I’m sure the biss screw is metal could be wrong also car has v2 ecu I believe it needs a tune I have most of the info on the build list for the motor Anyone who can tune it would be so helpful in anchorage Alaska finding a shop to tune this old car is harder then I thought and the local dsm page of Facebook is dead up here ! Any help would be helpful trying to get back in the dsm game but I have no buddy’s who own them anymore I still can’t help but buy my old car back stay strong stay boosted

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Ludachris]

Maybe an easy out/extractor, like you would with a broken exhaust manifold stud? Just have to be REALLY careful drilling too deep. Might be easier to just buy another TB if you can find one.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Here is a long shot. First, grab a magnet and see if it does, in fact, seem to be metal. IF NOT, HEAT UP a phillips screwdriver on the burner of the stove and stuff that thing into the PLASTIC Biss screw (the magnet test was to see if it was plastic, which most are). Maybe a flat blade would work even better. The hot screwdriver should try to make it's own slots, so let it cool while holding it in place and then try to extract it.
Good luck!

 

[twicks69]

Or you can just remove the throttle body, grab a wide flat blade (with a sharp tip -- use a grinder wheel and put a sharp chisel on it otherwise) screwdriver, hit it with a hammer gently enough to make an impression into the BISS screw without splitting it. It is likely plastic, not the early metal ones. That has worked for ages. Otherwise a left turn drill bit, drill in slowly and you should be able to spin it out. Otherwise an extractor.

I do this all the time when dealing with customer throttle bodies that have stripped fasteners.

 

[Kryndon]

Gonna add my 2 cents because a few months ago I managed to save the TB on my brother's galant. The plastic BISS was COMPLETELY glued to the aluminum threads. Heating a screwdriver didn't work, reverse drill bits neither. I completely took the TB off, got 3-4 sizes of drill bits and started drilling it out. Slowly and carefully I increased drill size until the husk of the BISS remained just barely on there. Then, I used a sharp pick to pick out the debris. You have to keep the drill absolutely centered else you might hit the narrower spot towards the bottom.

Then, the last step was to use a metric tap all the way through. I can't recall the exact size but it was a very fine tap, something like M9x0.75? That tap completely dislodged the glued plastic remains from the aluminum threads and it came out perfect!

 

[randman2011]

Please move the MAP sensor somewhere else. I have never in my life seen someone try to tap into an PCV line for one of those, and for good reason. It needs to be on a vacuum line that experiences no flow at all. Ideally it would be the only thing on the nipple. In its current location you will get inconsistent and high idle MAP readings that will make tuning more difficult.

 

[King_polzel]

Please move the MAP sensor somewhere else. I have never in my life seen someone try to tap into an PCV line for one of those, and for good reason. It needs to be on a vacuum line that experiences no flow at all. Ideally it would be the only thing on the nipple. In its current location you will get inconsistent and high idle MAP readings that will make tuning more difficult.

Thanks for your advice I bought the car and that was one of my concerns from the start I’m going to hook it up to a lab top for the first time to see how she’s running the past year iv been dealing with a t case seal and the clutch all that is done now I need to tune the car bad a lot of upgrades and I know it’s not tuned right battery has been disconnected so it lost its tune