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Billet 11 Blade 20G 374hp/369tq 91 pump

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ZenkaiRacerDsM

20+ Year Contributor
760
7
Nov 8, 2002
Layton, Utah
Sup guys, dynoed the car today. Got 374hp/369tq at 25psi on the billet 11 blade 20G on 91 octane pump gas. This is with a TD05H/7cm hotside.

Here are the relevant mods off the top of my head.
Completely stock engine
FP manifold
Punishment Tial MVS O2 housing with 38mm Tial gate
Megan downpipe necks down to 2.5in
Ebay catback muffler necks down less then 2.5in
FP intake
ETS street FMIC
Fuel Lab FPR
Wally 255HP rewired
FIC 1000cc injectors
Link V3 on speed density

I am pretty happy with it as it has not been professionally tuned yet.

Here's the sheet. I believe it was pulling timing up top.
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Here's a vid.
[ame]http://youtu.be/ZmYhKRPyUKc[/ame]
 
Numbers seem a little low to me- I was hoping for well over 400 considering I have a guy running a knockoff 16G making just 30-40 less hp/tq who is also on pump gas with RC550's at nearly the same boost level with a completely-stock 6-bolt. The turbo was given to me by a local so I rebuilt it and donated it to him- so the cost was a lot less than a billet 20G. LOL

What kind of airflow numbers are you seeing from that compressor?
 
This is a tune I put together myself by modding base maps, I think it's great that its putting out this much already. And I'm at 4800ft elevation.

I did not have my laptop with me since I didn't know that I was going to run it for sure. But if I go take a log on the street how would I calculate airflow with speed density?
 
But losing over 100whp and 200wtq from peak by just shy of 6800 rpm??? That seems a bit excessive. I've seen 16g's hold better power up top....
 
But losing over 100whp and 200wtq from peak by just shy of 6800 rpm??? That seems a bit excessive. I've seen 16g's hold better power up top....

I'm sure it was knocking, the dyno operator mentioned the check engine light. There must've been more load on that dyno then I see on the street because on the street I very rarely see it.
 
I have a 3in cutout installed in the downpipe for when I'm ready to push it. I've been waiting to dyno tune it till I get the cams installed. I will be running E85 then as well.

This is by no means an example of this turbo being pushed. I thought I would share it anyways since it's a new compressor wheel.
 
Do you feel like 25 psi is where it runs the happiest? Most of our guys are running 28 psi on the cast 6 blade and logging 47.5 lb per min peak. Increasing the psi can add quite a bit more power, my friend increased the boost 2 psi on his hx35 on his honda and gained 40 hp.
 
25psi is just where I ended up at while being able to retain some decent timing. I would like to play with the tune more, but I need to find a good safe place to do it.

When it was just an 18g I had trouble just getting past 20psi on pump. I am by no means an experienced tuner. I've just read a lot in a bunch of different forums.

When I got it to run at 25psi I just left it cause that's the highest I've ever got on pump heh. Timing is 7 degrees around spool up and peak torque then once boost is stable it rises to a peak of 14 degrees.
 
But losing over 100whp and 200wtq from peak by just shy of 6800 rpm??? That seems a bit excessive. I've seen 16g's hold better power up top....

Elevation affects turbo cars a lot more than people realize. I'm not ruling out his tune, but the lower ambient air pressure at higher elevation makes some pretty drastic changes to how a turbo car behaves. A lot of people erroneously assume that turbos magically compensate for altitude.

25psi at his elevation (~4800ft) is a PR of about 3.0. The same absolute manifold pressure for a car at sea level (~22psi of boost) is a PR of about 2.5. The extra energy necessary to drive the turbo to the higher PR at his elevation results in less exhaust out the wastegate, and more restriction/higher eMAP as boost goes up.

So, referenced to sea level: his turbo is doing 29psi worth of work to provide him with ~22psi of absolute boost. The torque dropoff is not surprising at all. It costs him far more power per psi of boost to run high boost than someone in Florida.
 
On 91, at that elevation, those numbers appear promising. Id like to see some numbers closer to sea level. Would be nice to see what getting rid of that bottleneck, along with some turbine porting would do. Im betting that td05 wheel and 7cm housing are next limiting factors.
 
Nope, I had some cams listed in my profile because I have them already. Just haven't installed them. I'm seeing valve float with the stock cams when I NLTS so there's no way I'm installing them without springs.
 
Awesome. Gonna get Ryan @ BoostAddiction to make me one of these so your results are very promising. How do you like the spool up on your stock engine/head/cam setup? When do you hit full boost by?
 
I guess my spool is slow for a 20G, around 4k. But I was looking at my timing map and I got the base from a 16G.

The timing is still low where a 16G spools, then I lowered it where the 18G spooled. I haven't actually done any changes when I put the 20G on. So there is a huge flat spot of timing before and during spool.

Basically there's a lot of tweaks that need to be done to the tune. If I had my own dyno I would be working on it no problem. There just aren't any areas nearby to do a bunch of pulls.
 
Elevation does hurt spool quite a bit. When I moved from Minneapolis (~sea level) to Arvada, CO (5400ft) there was 300-400rpm more lag before the turbo would hit. So the spool you're seeing isn't too indicative of how the wheel would spool for most people. I knew it would spool slower than the 7 blade because of the lower blade count and the fact that it's moving more air per revolution at slightly lower efficiency. That's why I went with the 7 blade, and I'm really happy with the spool on it, even way up here.
 
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