Big problems?

[killerwhale]

Not knowing what to do anymore, I took my car to my go-to mechanic, and he basically said "#### it, just sell the car because you could be looking at $3-4k worth of repairs"... Anyway, that's not an option, because in its current state I wouldn't get anything more out of it than I would to sell it for scrap metal.

So here's what gives...

#1. Idle surge (and have been through Terry's guide). I've done everything but replace the EGR and FIAV, so it could be that... but wait, there's more!

#2. The engine shakes, and there are apparently sounds coming out of the engine that indicate it could blow up. I'm not too worried about these mysterious blow up sounds ATM however, so I'm going to see about the balance shaft belt.

#3. Accelerating off the line I've got almost no power. I remember when I first got the car I could just release the clutch and it would go without pushing in the accelerator, but now it feels like it's got no balls. The clutch is still good though, which is confusing me.

Anyway if you've got any idea if this is all related to some kind of grand master problem I'd really appreciate knowing about it before I go and spend a bunch of money trying to fix shit.

 

[habitatguy187]

Basically if the body's in good shape and it passes a compression test, keep it. Sounds like you've got tranny issues though, although my car moves a little in neutral when the tranny fluid is really cold. Besides that it runs fine. You need to do a lot more researching on here before you take it to a shop, most your problems sound basic. If you have a really bad boost leak your engine is going to shake like crazy.

If nothing else find someone who lives close to you on here and ask them for help, pay them before you pay that mechanic a dime.

 

[Lofty]

If that mechanic tells you something like that so bluntly, it doesn't sound like he is good enough to work on these cars. All of these are basic.

Describe the noise the engine is making.

I bet you have a boost leak/vac leak causing these problems.

 

[mindset]

Well shaking and no power off the line just sounds like a fat boost leak. That mechanic is wrong. Don't sell it. Try a boost leak test and we'll see how many problems you have now. Do all of your maintenance, plugs, wires, oil, gear fluid, air filter, fuel filter, etc. My car ran like poop when I got it. Did maybe half of the maintenance and my car was improving after every item. Grounded out the ECU to fix my idle and I'm good now. I just have to find that oil leak!

Do research!

 

[DSM4me44]

$3 to 4k in repairs? Shoot, I had a mechanic drop a 6 bolt in my car for 2k (price includes engine!). Thats about the biggest engine repair you can do.

 

[killerwhale]

Thanks for the support and ideas. For whatever reason the engine shake has stopped? Woohoo! But a buddy reminded me of a problem I just learned to deal with - the accelerator has a delay (as does the throttle cable), so I was thinking if the throttle position sensor was fubar would it be possible that it could cause the idle oscillation? I'll be looking more into this but I'd appreciate hearing what you all think.

edit: also, when I rev the car with the throttle, it takes about a second to rev, and another second after I let go for the cable to return to the original position.

edit again: on the other hand, the idle could be a completely different issue. the EGR checks out, there's no boost/vacuum leaks, and the only thing left is the FIAV. I might be able to find one at a junkyard but the auto wreckers around here like to try to rip you off (tried to make me pay $20 for a T fitting that attached to the girlfriends cavaliers windshield sprayer. ended up paying $1.50 but just as an example, those guys are douches). Anyway I found one but it has 255,000km on it. I live in Victoria BC and the weather here can get reasonably cold (-10C to -15C) so I'm thinking that a FIAV block off is out of the question but also wondering what the experts think of bypassing the FIAV with one of those JM Fabrication plates?

 

[killerwhale]

*bump before I go to bed =)

 

[habitatguy187]

Does it idle surge all the time or just until it gets warmed up?

 

[killerwhale]

Does it idle surge all the time or just until it gets warmed up?

Idle surges once it's warmed up, and not all the time. Only when I come to a complete stop and sit there for a few seconds.

 

[fran_drivertsi]

poor idle also may be caused by bad idle speed control motor (ISC). I suggest you check on that first.

 

[killerwhale]

poor idle also may be caused by bad idle speed control motor (ISC). I suggest you check on that first.

Replaced with one from DSMISC.com and it is fully functional
I've replaced the o2 sensor
Cleaned the throttle body, checked for leaks, replaced the air filter, checked the egr.

 

[toofast82]

Are you running the coolant hoses to the throttlebody? You said you did a boostleak test. Have you checked/changed your plugs, wires,pcv,fuel filter,etc. You may want to do a compression test as well.

 

[fran_drivertsi]

ALSO! Do you vent or recirculate your BOV? I had some idle problems when my BOV was venting, and as soon as I re-circ. it everything went away!

Hope that helps.

 

[killerwhale]

Are you running the coolant hoses to the throttlebody? You said you did a boostleak test. Have you checked/changed your plugs, wires,pcv,fuel filter,etc. You may want to do a compression test as well.

Compression came back as 144/145 all around. Plugs are brand new NGK V-power. I've ordered a PCV valve, spark plug wires, FIAV bypass plate, and fuel filter. Ty for the ideas.

 

[toofast82]

Compression came back as 144/145 all around. Plugs are brand new NGK V-power. Replacing the wires is a pretty good idea though didn't think of that thankyou. I've ordered a PCV valve, FIAV bypass plate, and fuel filter. Ty for the ideas.

hopefully you ordered an oem pcv. Also are you running the coolant hoses to throttle body, if youre not, this may be your surge issue in the cold

 

[habitatguy187]

It doesn't have anything to do with plugs or wires, it's probably the fiav, and btw if the coolant hoses aren't connected to the fiav then it will only surge until the car gets warmed up, after that it's fine. Let us know once you put the fiav on.

 

[toofast82]

probably the fiav, and btw if the coolant hoses aren't connected to the fiav then it will only surge until the car gets warmed up, after that it's fine. Let us know once you put the fiav on.

mine surges in the winter almost all the time in park or neutral(auto obviously) and idles perfectly in the summer with the coolant hoses off. My last 5spd one would surge in the winter too until i hooked the hoses back up then no surge. There are other things like bad tps adjustment or gunk in throttle body,etc. that can cause this as well. This guy lives in canada, its cold, its worth a try to hook the hoses up

 

[DSM4me44]

hopefully you ordered an oem pcv.

Yeah, the ones at your local auto parts store are worthless. Def. go OEM.

 

[habitatguy187]

Yeah, the ones at your local auto parts store are worthless. Def. go OEM.

My brand new oem one went out in 3 weeks, I'm pretty sure they're all the same.

 

[killerwhale]

It doesn't have anything to do with plugs or wires, it's probably the fiav, and btw if the coolant hoses aren't connected to the fiav then it will only surge until the car gets warmed up, after that it's fine. Let us know once you put the fiav on.

Wouldn't coolant be leaking out if the hoses weren't connected? or do you mean if they're connected somewhere else?

 

[boostedorbusted]

on the coolant hoses for the throttlebody if it has the bypasss they should be capped off or have a hose looped from 1 side to the other, if not then they should be connected to the (i beleave )the thernostat housing (backside).

 

[boostedorbusted]

id replace the iac with an oem one not a part store one as i have had problems with them b-4.

 

[DSM4me44]

My brand new oem one went out in 3 weeks, I'm pretty sure they're all the same.

The ones at the store are usually a silver color and if you suck on one end, it pretty much operates as just a fitting as the ball or whatever it is thats inside, doesn't really seal or do anything. The OEM ones are dark in color and do not leak like this.

As far as it going out, considering the ones at the store don't work right to begin with (I tried 3 and all did the same thing), your best bet is stick with OEM on this one.