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1G Best non-Dogbox we can get?

bastarddsm

Proven Member
5,419
1,252
Aug 26, 2003
Mendota, Illinois
As for making these last. Quit being stupid and running too much clutch. My car runs 9's/145mph at 3000lbs using an act2600 and a puck disc. I honestly think it would do it on a 2100 with a little attention to the setup. If the clutch slips, fix your setup to make less torque.

These bolt on turbo's cranked up that do nothing but a huge torque spike then fall off are DUMB. it's a 2l not a bigblock, make power with rpm not torque. I get a couple seasons out of a synchro trans at 700hp being pretty hard on it.
 

fourgsixty3

Proven Member
161
119
Sep 28, 2003
chicago, Illinois
Personally, I'm working on shift forks (since the magnus ones suck), and chromo shift fork ends. Going to try and do them so they will work with early or late select lever things. I might tinker with 3/4 synchros since mitsu ones are months out anymore. Eventually I'll make gears. I've talked to the MTM guy, and tried to get him to do a run of the dsm ones with a center diff body, so I could be a stocking dealer. but the language barrier kinda squashed that, and I don't think he really wants to do "production" type work. Anyway I think I can do them in my shop for a better price. We will see though.
My brother works for MasterCAM so let me know if I can be of assistance. He has some really good contacts in the manufacturing industry.
 

bastarddsm

Proven Member
5,419
1,252
Aug 26, 2003
Mendota, Illinois
My brother works for MasterCAM so let me know if I can be of assistance. He has some really good contacts in the manufacturing industry.
a complementary seat of mastercam would be swell LOLoLOL. ohh with a post for a tree vmc with a dynapath 50
 

rabenne

Proven Member
1,820
826
Apr 21, 2006
Racine, Wisconsin
@twicks69 I have a set (4) of spider gears coming from Neat as well, can you mark me down for one of the cross shafts? Then we don't have to rob parts from my current 4 spider (you built) and I can save it for future projects. I have a few spare transmissions floating around so I see value in keeping it together.
 

twicks69

Supporting Vendor
4,022
1,224
Mar 12, 2004
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
@twicks69 I have a set (4) of spider gears coming from Neat as well, can you mark me down for one of the cross shafts? Then we don't have to rob parts from my current 4 spider (you built) and I can save it for future projects. I have a few spare transmissions floating around so I see value in keeping it together.
That is no problem, they are on the website. Only the cross shafts are available currently until I have received the spider gears from NEAT and have inventoried what I have remaining for 4 spider center diff parts since the housings and covers discontinued.

 

donk

Proven Member
124
6
Dec 17, 2002
kalmar, Europe
This looks promissing. Everyone has been so debbie downer for a long time on this. So far I've been able to get almost any part I've needed to build a trans from mitsu. Some shit takes a while, but it gets here. You have to have a good corpse to start with, but I can still get a "built" trans out the door. Can't always build the trans I want to build, but it doesn't matter much. I've gone just as fast on a pile I slapped together out of junk used up stuff, old fiber synchros, chipped gears, mismatch bearings/races, ect. Did not shift quite as good as a nice new fresh one, but it wasn't bad at all. Lasted just as long as any of the high $$ new parts, detailed, shot peened, bad ass build deals I had.

We all get the tunnel vision, there are places other than the US, and the 4g/w/f5m is a pretty common drivetrain, and lots of people play with them. Seems like most with more money and care than us. The need is there, the parts will show up. Quit crying and forge ahead, or get out of the way.

For example, look at the old ford top loader. There was a time when you could not get ANY new hard part for them, cores were going for big money. Now you can buy literally every part new. And it isn't like theres a stick shift ford on every street corner.

I know tim is worried about the 3/4 sliders, but I don't think thats a huge deal. In 10 years of building these for people, I've seen like 2 3/4hub/slider that was trashed - some wear yes, but very useable. Now the 1/2 hub slider that is a BIG deal. They are all trashed. That's the one we need to worry about right now today.

I think the next biggest need is transfercase couplers and a reasonable output shaft. I got a lot of tcases here, but they all have worn couplers. Almost every trans that comes in has a junk output shaft too.

Personally, I'm working on shift forks (since the magnus ones suck), and chromo shift fork ends. Going to try and do them so they will work with early or late select lever things. I might tinker with 3/4 synchros since mitsu ones are months out anymore. Eventually I'll make gears. I've talked to the MTM guy, and tried to get him to do a run of the dsm ones with a center diff body, so I could be a stocking dealer. but the language barrier kinda squashed that, and I don't think he really wants to do "production" type work. Anyway I think I can do them in my shop for a better price. We will see though.
Whats make the magnus forks bad? since in another contry with even less parts i always thought of these as a buy once to do it right option.

best regards Alfred
 

twicks69

Supporting Vendor
4,022
1,224
Mar 12, 2004
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
It just needs a little modification typically due to the roll pin hole not being oriented perfectly, which then offsets the shift rail end not oriented correctly at the shift selector assembly. It just takes some time to then fixture the parts in the proper orientation, then re-drill the hole through the fork and rail with a slightly larger drill bit (typically a 13/64" bit is all I need), then use a slightly larger diameter roll pin. I cut up a 0.030" thick shim into pieces that are sandwiched between the rail ends to evenly space them, and are centered and clamped together. Then I center out the 1/2 fork on the rail, put a shim or feeler gauge below to hold in place and then clamp above. Then do the same thing with the 3/4 fork if it is aftermarket also (PPG, Magnus), and then center the fork, clamp in place, and then prepare for drilling. As you can see, I cut up a spare gear cluster case section so that I had access to these components, and then bolted down the gear cluster case section to the bellhousing, and then the bearing plate installed with some washers stacked on a couple bolts, and installed the shift rail detent balls / springs / plugs.

I typically have to do this method for nearly every Magnus shift fork, as well as on occasion with the PPG 3/4 billet shift fork.

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twicks69

Supporting Vendor
4,022
1,224
Mar 12, 2004
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
This is what I typically see when I install the Magnus or PPG forks and the pin orientation is screwed up

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motomattx

Proven Member
3,687
1,430
Dec 9, 2010
wampum, Pennsylvania
I imagine that if the layman just assembled them as they came that they would have some notchy shifting for sure.
 

twicks69

Supporting Vendor
4,022
1,224
Mar 12, 2004
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Well yeah, shifting issues could occur, more money shifts, as well as significant dog wear. You need to modify the range of the selector assembly cage for a little more range of the selector tab, and then grind the detents on the rails and reshape the ramps to extend the range, then adjust the rail limiters on the 5th gear cover, and in a few cases, a little modification to the rail limiter in the bellhousing or the rail itself.

Again, anyone can slap one together to a certain extent, but if they don't know where to clearance and massage the components to work nicely together, it will have shifting issues or engagement issues or weird wear/failure issues. PPG has great quality components but it doesn't mean that their dimensional quality control is perfect by any means. It's not like they are fit testing every part they produce before they box it up.
 
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