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BEP housing modifying for internal gate?

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forcefed86

15+ Year Contributor
1,007
12
May 23, 2006
wichita, Kansas
First off if my BEP housing is magnetic I'm assuming this thing is cast steel? Anyone know what grade?

I was thinking of drilling and pressing a bushing in the side and making an internal WG setup? Anyone done this? Currently some tool pressed a steel pipe plug into the WG hole and welded it. The end of the pipe plug sticks out a good ½" into the inlet path of the turbo...:applause: As if the BEP housing wasn't small enough...

Hoping to grind that out and install flapper in its place.
 
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First off if my BEP housing is magnetic I’m assuming this thing is cast steel? Anyone know what grade?

I was thinking of drilling and pressing a bushing in the side and making an internal WG setup? Anyone done this? Currently some tool pressed a steel pipe plug into the WG hole and welded it. The end of the pipe plug sticks out a good ½” into the inlet path of the turbo…:applause: As if the BEP housing wasn't small enough...

Hoping to grind that out and install flapper in its place.

Steel is not normally magnetized but it can be. In this case, I think your housing is made of a cast iron material. That is why it is magnetic. Just like how the 23 spline transfer cases have iron casing which make them magnetic (easy way to tell if you have a 23-22 spline).

I like the idea of installing an internal gate, its creative. You will hear most people just go external instead of putting forth the effort, but an internal gate can work very well if set up properly with a good actuator and flapper door.

do you have any pictures?
 
Older BEP bolt-on housings are full cast, newer housings are a certain type of stainless which is still magnetic....so it must contain enough nickel to qualify as stainless but not enough to be non-magnetic.

These housings were once available with an internal gate, so you're no pioneer on that front- although they were discontinued because they were difficult to build and most users would either pull the flapper on their own or request it to not be installed so an external gate could be utilized.

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It is cast steel, not cast iron. The iron content of the cast steel is what attracts the magnet.

forcefed86 - It's definitely doable, but it's up to you whether the payout exceeds the effort. I've never been a fan of internal gates, so I know I'd just be buying an external gate if I were in your shoes.

If you do decided to do it, just contact BEP and buy a sleeve and flapper assembly from them. And it sounds like you know exactly what to do from there.
 
Older BEP bolt-on housings are full cast, newer housings are a certain type of stainless which is still magnetic....so it must contain enough nickel to qualify as stainless but not enough to be non-magnetic.

These housings were once available with an internal gate, so you're no pioneer on that front- although they were discontinued because they were difficult to build and most users would either pull the flapper on their own or request it to not be installed so an external gate could be utilized.

I know it's nothing new. I contacted Tim of "Timsturbos.com" and was quoted $375 for a BEP with a gate before I bought this setup for less including the turbo.

It also has the semi rare WG flange cast into the comp housing. I was thinking of doing an internal setup cheaply myself. On the other hand, if it’s not cost productive it’s pointless. I'm on a budget.



Thanks!
 
It also has the semi rare WG flange cast into the comp housing.
Just means it was used on the 99-02 Dodge manual instead of industrial 5.9 engines.

On the other hand, if it’s not cost productive it’s pointless. I'm on a budget.
The $100-heavier price tag on the housing could be money spend toward getting an external gate and o2 housing set up for the external gate and never need to upgrade.
 
I was in this same dilema when I was considering a BEP housing. BEP still sells the Switzer turbos with an internal gate and a dsm housing, so I bet you can get the parts from them.

I'd personally go with the internal. I really think an internal can be made to have as good of boost control as an external. I also think an internal is way more reliable. How long is a piece of silicone impregnated nomex going to last inside a aluminum chamber that s directly connected to a pieces of stainless that glows everytime you drive the car?

If you could find a wastegate actuator that had a top and bottom port, and use it with a mini painrt regulator, I think you would be good.
 
I believe the externals are superior. I actually have a few laying around the shop. And mounting is a pain without a proper manifold. I just like the neat packaging the internal gate allows. Alot of space issues on my setup. This is a daily driven car, w/ all options/accesories. Not a race car... or so I keep telling myself. :D
 
How long is a piece of silicone impregnated nomex going to last inside a aluminum chamber that s directly connected to a pieces of stainless that glows everytime you drive the car?
I don't know, how many external gates do you see with failed diaphrams? Sure, it probably happens occasionally, but it's definitely not common at all. I know I've never killed one and I've owned several. They're tough as nails for the environment that they opperate and live within.
 
I don't know, how many external gates do you see with failed diaphrams? Sure, it probably happens occasionally, but it's definitely not common at all. I know I've never killed one and I've owned several. They're tough as nails for the environment that they opperate and live within.

It happened to me, it was a emusa, a tial MVS knock off. I put a real tial diaphragm back in, and it did it again. It might be the knock off body, or even my driving style. I did do about 30 gal of E85 worth of back to back 500whp pulls on the tial diaphragm. When tial offers watercooling on the newer gates, it says that they probably run too hot.
 
It happened to me, it was a emusa, a tial MVS knock off. I put a real tial diaphragm back in, and it did it again. It might be the knock off body, or even my driving style. I did do about 30 gal of E85 worth of back to back 500whp pulls on the tial diaphragm. When tial offers watercooling on the newer gates, it says that they probably run too hot.
That's just God's way of telling you to stay away from knock-off parts. :p
I doubt it was your driving style either. I know plenty of people that romp on their cars and have much higher EGTs than you probably did with E85. I know my car was hot enough to melt several plastic pieces under the hood, and still the diaphrams stayed intact. The watercooling is primarily for excessive and prolonged usage. Like circuit racing, and road course stuff. And who knows what the wastegate's shortcomings were prior to adding the water cooling option (maybe sticking valves and not diaphram issues).
 
Ya, ya, I know. I'm just confused why it did it with a real tial diaphragm. They end up sticking to the housing and ripping.


Oh ya forgot too OP your housing is 409 stainless. Not as corrosive resistant as 300 series. Its got less nickel and chromium in it, making it magnetic too.
 
Ya, ya, I know. I'm just confused why it did it with a real tial diaphragm. They end up sticking to the housing and ripping.
If a Tial diaphram lives in a Tial housing but dies in the knock-off housing, then I'd suspect the housing has something to do with it. Possibly a difference in material and heat transfer properties. I'd be willing to bet there's a host of differences between a real Tial and a knock-off and most aren't recognizable to the naked eye, or even recognized as important to the average person.
 
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