Not enough space in your favorite car's engine bay?
Do you really not like that eye-sore of a battery next to your 4g63?
Not wanting to add hundreds of dollars in breakers and inline fuses?
Well utilizing the stock fused components you still can toss your battery in the trunk or behind the passenger seat.
What you'll need:
-25 dollar 4 terminal distribution busbar with plastic cover (TSIAWD666 uses one also) ~readily available on ebay
-2 Gauge wire for extending the positive post connection (7 to 8 feet to reach behind seat, roughly double it to place the battery in the trunk) ~[2 dollars a foot] I went to Advance Auto for all the wires
-4 Gauge wire to ground the negative (2 gauge works as well but not necessary) ~[Most likely clearance item so pretty cheap] Advance Auto
-Terminal with 2 gauge wire (30" is the longest you can buy from a parts store) ~Advance Auto
-Have a sharp knife or some kind of tool to remove shielding for 2 gauge wire
-I used a torch (walmart adaptor with propane tank) to solder ring terminals on the large gauge wire
NOTE if you want to be NHRA legal add a kill switch into the positive wire to the outside of the rear bumper, and a sealed battery box.
First undo the positive connections to the stock battery terminal. Take these terminals and mount them into the new 4 terminal busbar, including any aftermarket power wires you had as well. The alternator wires from the fuse box you will need to widen their ring terminals or replace them (I opted to make the stock ones work, and I stacked them on the same lug in the bus bar)
Remove the passenger seat and rear seats, and pull the carpet up to the hinge of the door. Run the power wire through the big wire loom's path (behind the glovebox on the firewall). It is shielded by a large plastic guard, so very little risk of cutting your wire and grounding it out, but I put some rubber around it anyway. Pull that wire into the bay and place the ring lug into the bus bar.
Run the power wire under the carpet, I ran it through the stock amp cutout also and then back under the carpet so I can add a killswitch or circuit breaker for a little safety net that sits under the passenger seat.
The wire then needs to go under the back seats and under the trunk carpet lining and connected to the battery. Pop clips hold the carpet, and levers to take out the rear seats.
The ground wire connects to the negative battery post and is bolted to the upper rear seat’s mounting bolt.
You can place the battery wherever you please in the trunk, mine is in front of the spare tire mount, with padding around it to prevent movement (and the trunk floor sits on top of it). A battery box is recommended, but not necessary if you aren’t trying to be NHRA legal. Just secure it so it doesn’t fly when you get on the throttle.
Do you really not like that eye-sore of a battery next to your 4g63?
Not wanting to add hundreds of dollars in breakers and inline fuses?
Well utilizing the stock fused components you still can toss your battery in the trunk or behind the passenger seat.
What you'll need:
-25 dollar 4 terminal distribution busbar with plastic cover (TSIAWD666 uses one also) ~readily available on ebay
-2 Gauge wire for extending the positive post connection (7 to 8 feet to reach behind seat, roughly double it to place the battery in the trunk) ~[2 dollars a foot] I went to Advance Auto for all the wires
-4 Gauge wire to ground the negative (2 gauge works as well but not necessary) ~[Most likely clearance item so pretty cheap] Advance Auto
-Terminal with 2 gauge wire (30" is the longest you can buy from a parts store) ~Advance Auto
-Have a sharp knife or some kind of tool to remove shielding for 2 gauge wire
-I used a torch (walmart adaptor with propane tank) to solder ring terminals on the large gauge wire
NOTE if you want to be NHRA legal add a kill switch into the positive wire to the outside of the rear bumper, and a sealed battery box.
First undo the positive connections to the stock battery terminal. Take these terminals and mount them into the new 4 terminal busbar, including any aftermarket power wires you had as well. The alternator wires from the fuse box you will need to widen their ring terminals or replace them (I opted to make the stock ones work, and I stacked them on the same lug in the bus bar)
Remove the passenger seat and rear seats, and pull the carpet up to the hinge of the door. Run the power wire through the big wire loom's path (behind the glovebox on the firewall). It is shielded by a large plastic guard, so very little risk of cutting your wire and grounding it out, but I put some rubber around it anyway. Pull that wire into the bay and place the ring lug into the bus bar.
Run the power wire under the carpet, I ran it through the stock amp cutout also and then back under the carpet so I can add a killswitch or circuit breaker for a little safety net that sits under the passenger seat.
The wire then needs to go under the back seats and under the trunk carpet lining and connected to the battery. Pop clips hold the carpet, and levers to take out the rear seats.
The ground wire connects to the negative battery post and is bolted to the upper rear seat’s mounting bolt.
You can place the battery wherever you please in the trunk, mine is in front of the spare tire mount, with padding around it to prevent movement (and the trunk floor sits on top of it). A battery box is recommended, but not necessary if you aren’t trying to be NHRA legal. Just secure it so it doesn’t fly when you get on the throttle.
