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Battery Relocation, beating a dead horse

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jgio213

Proven Member
119
70
Sep 27, 2017
Massachusetts
Hey guys,
I know this is a topic that has been beat to death and I have done a lot of searching in the forums and read through many threads the last few nights. What I'm looking for is confirmation on a diagram I am going with for my battery relocation. Will it work and is it safe? There are a few threads that really go into some fine electrical detail that is way over my head, and some of the diagrams can seem a bit of overkill. I do care about this being done properly and safely. I am going for NHRA compliance just to get it all done at once. The link and diagram I am using came from eat sleep DSM, and seems to be one of the simpler and cleaner methods.
http://eatsleepdsmmag.com/battery-relocation-by-spooligan/

If you've read through the battery relocation threads some of the debates get a little out of hand so I'd like to keep this simple if we can. If you have any advice or further pointers I'd love to hear them, I'll also be moving the master fuse box to the stock SMIC location and making a cover for that to further clean the bay up a bit. I've got my shopping list together and I'm ready to pull the trigger once I get confirmation from some of you gurus.
Thanks in advance for your help!

John
 

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This is the other diagram I found that seemed appropriate. Only thing I noticed to fix was beefing up the fuse to the alternator to at least a 100amp fuse.

There is another change. Notice the 150A circuit breaker just after battery positive. I think that is crucial to the safety of you and your car. Now that the battery positive cable is many feet long that is that many more chances to rub through the insulation and have a short. With no circuit breaker or fuse, you risk burning your car to the ground.

I use a 150A circuit breaker right off the battery terminal in the trunk. This is the one I went with LINK.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. I think I'll be going with the second diagram I posted. Just picked up most of the supplies I need but couldn't find a bussbar, distribution box or any of the good in line fuses at the local parts stores so I'm ordering those. And yes @llxkevinxll I'm going to have a 150A CB right off the positive batter post most likely mounted on the battery box.
 
As long as you apply the proper fuse/breaker to protect from shorts and make sure you have all your grounds proper block,frame,chassis then you should be just fine. Alot of newer modern cars you will find that manufacturers have located the batterys in the trunk or even crazier inside the passenger cabin so it shows the vehicle will be happy with any location of battery as long as proper grounds and protection from shorts. Thank you for your time, Jason Penny
 
Yea I feel like a lot of the threads related to this have gone way above and beyond what is necessary to move the battery to the trunk. There's been some heated debates in the threads I've read through. Today I picked up all the parts and order the stuff I couldn't find at the stores. I'm going to be running a bussbar on the firewall to manage all the wires and such and I think it just makes for a simpler setup. I had a question about the 4 white wires from the fusebox and am looking for some clarification. I've read you can just combine those 4 wires and splice them to a single 4ga wire and run that to the bussbar and other setups I've seen a lot of people using fused distribution blocks for this part as well. This is where I get confused on, which fuse distribution block should I be going for? Assuming a 150AMP total thats basically a 4 into 1 block? If someone has a link to the type of block I should get for those 4 white wires or can confirm your can just run them into a 4ga wire to the bussbar I'd appreciate it.

Thanks
John
 
Ok so as long as you have have an inline circuit breaker from the altenator back to the + post you can just eliminate those 4 wires all together? That's where I'm getting confused. If I just run 2ga from the positive post to the starter / altenator then I don't need those 4 white wires correct? and have my appropriate inline fuses in place etc...
 
Ok so as long as you have have an inline circuit breaker from the altenator back to the + post you can just eliminate those 4 wires all together? That's where I'm getting confused. If I just run 2ga from the positive post to the starter / altenator then I don't need those 4 white wires correct? and have my appropriate inline fuses in place etc...

What are the 4 white wires for exactly?
 
There are 2 off of the altenator to the fuse box and then 4 wires out of the fuse box that go straight to the positive terminal on the battery in a factory setup. I think I've overcomplicated this and will just send those 4 wires and the starter wire to the busbar and keep the factory fuse box stuff in play. I can still add in the circuit breaker at the battery in the trunk, and an inline fuse for a little extra safety, and I'll just run a new starter cable to the busbar.

I reread this thread again https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/battery-relocation-simplified.505177/
and I think this is the easiest way to accomplish getting my battery to the trunk. Appreciate all the feedback fellas.
 
The 4 white wires that go from the fuse box to the positive terminal still has to be hooked up even though the white wire from the alternator to the fuse box does not. I didnt hook it up at first cuz I had the same thought process, and the car fired right up, but I had no lights at all no dash lights, headlights, or taillights, till those 4 white wires was connected to the new positive terminal. A d in your case the buss bar.
 
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