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Bastard 1G

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Where to begin.. This car lived up to its name!

New timing belt - Gates
Oil change and tighten inner nut in filter housing - Penzoil and delo whatever was lying around
Mitsubishi oil filter
new plugs ngk - smaller gap
changed to ngk plug wires
Idle surge fix, timed, adjusted biss.
Timed with top cam marks, adjusted biss many times until I realized fiav was bad.
Installed new ISC (old ISC tested one coil bad)
Installed FIAV bypass
Cleaned TB
Boost leak test, fix leaks
New speakers front and rear, f kicker r kenwood
Rewire Fuel pump 10g

Tightened oil pan
Checked oil pan bolts
Replaced missing alternator nut
Swapped fuel injectors (2g cleaned)
New fuel filter
Vacuum line rework
Oiled window slides
weight reduction
removed char canister
soldered wires into cas plug* revisit later
adjusted tps 0.63v
cleaned door open switch grounds
cleaned fuel pump hanger
soldered new caps into ecu
new 2g exhaust manifold
2.5" turbo back with glass pack and small end muffler- custom made
fresh factory 14b rebuild turbo
7cm hot side evo design
new radiator cap
installed coolant overflow tank
new 02 sensor
New battery holder tray and tie down
Oiled pop ups and moving parts for pop ups
One pop up broke and is now manual
New headlight Left side

New front brakes
new lug nuts
New 2g rims OEM fat 5 spoke powder coated white
NEw ish tires - free from my neighbor
REplaced both front L & R wheel bearings *Whores
Drilled rotors for ABS provisions *Whores
New Hex bolts for ABS tone rings *Yes
Greased the hell out of brake slides and used anti seize on most bolts
Adjusted brakes and brake clips and dust shields
Adjusted brakes and brake clips and wow this was a stupid process (things kept rubbing) AND KEPT RUBBING.
So many times took front end apart and adjusted and clipped brake anti rattle tabs.
Rust cleaned both front wheel wells and applied rust converter
Replaced exhaust manifold nuts and washers

*alternator bad
*need to clean air filter
*Battery bad
*knock sensor black goo leaked
Need to inspect tensioner arm bushing
Need to replace shifter bushings

Alternator 95amp gallant modded installed.
New battery (smaller for reduced weight)
Head gasket bad.
Ordered knock sensor
Arp head studs
Cometic hg

Update & Installs:
Cometic HG
Knock sensor
Swapped shifter cables 3 different sets
Oil change somewhere in there
Installed BC Coils
Quick release wheel
Exhaust flex pipe broke, 2.5in flex slide on piece install
shifter cable adjustment
shifter cable oil
shifter cable adjustment, zip tied clips at trans
metal zip tied drivers floor mat (tries to get under pedals)

Update ect 2, electric boogaloo: f.
ripped bumper, ripped a piece off, zip tie laced back on

installed led projector fog lights
changed r headlight
changed left side inner brake bulb
double nut exhaust nut keeps rattle off
adjusted idle for the 100th time
found out biss screw bad, o ring also bad
replaced biss screw and o ring
new shift knob, hate it back to old knob
e clip on wg replaced, was missing

Need to do:
Check engine grounds, grounds in gen
*done=Thread exhaust turbo stud, drilled
*wip=Build 2g ecu in a 1g ECU harness
Reorque ARPs
Boost controller
Boost Gauge
*done =replace biss o ring
*done=maybe double nut the entire exhaust manifold
order front axles
*done=rebuild backup alternator, one backup on hand.

*done=fill carrier bearing poly with 3m or attempt rubber fix/ grease carrier bearings
*done=Heat shield piece broke off that was protecting the alternator. this needs revisited.

Update 300 this is sparta:
Fresh MAF and Black top CAS
Driveline refresh, replaced 2 u joint dog bones and poly filled carrier bearing bushings refilled lobro joint with grease and cleaned.
Welded WG actuator mounting ear and bolted back on, adjusted flapper sleeve.
Heatshield for alternator is a motorcycle license plate bolted on

Huge thanks to my partner in dsm crime Brandon. We can really say we are DSM mechanics now, fully certified.
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Arp l19 head studs, cometic head gasket 0.56 87mm, gates thermostat 180*, m8 25mm harmonic balancer bolts. Heat shield blocking alternator, heat shield on main manifold. Flipped cas180* reset ecu and timing + idle. Knock sensor, kiggly hla. Painted cam gears. Thermal plastic gasket on intake.

Tossed the intake manifold support in the trash.
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Shifter cable clip popped off while driving from trans. Rigged some zip ties to drive home.

Shifter cables decided to break and act like pieces of sheet. Pulled cable out of car, tried a 1990 wrong size, pulled, modified original to work/rebuilt put back into car.

O2 might be dead, checked data stream and seems dead.

Checked oil, added a little.
Trans stuck in 3rd or 4th gear. Parked for LONG time.
Shifter cables slowly got way worse to the point I thought the trans was bad. I began pulling trans to get to the pulling axels part and then popped off the shifter cables and the trans dropped into neutral.

Axel outer boots need replaced.

Installed BC Coils, factory suspension shot to hell.

Put car back together, swapped in galant shifter cables, 99% of shifting issues went away. Car runs and drives fine.

Only Issue with car is fuel cut on WOT pulls. ABS Works! Need to thread exhaust stud.

Exhaust flex broke, cut it out and replaced with a slip on 2.5ID flex pipe from vatozone, and hose clamps.
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the biss screw was plastic... plastique. how? I've never seen this before. leaked like all hell. thanks Brandon for leaving a spare tb at the house so I used the biss out of that one (metal) and double o rings (it's what I had) while changing out the biss I noticed the e clip missing on the wg. replaced that too.

runs and drives well, still some high rpm breakup.

Heat shield on exhaust 02 housing is missing it broke off, winter not the biggest issue but summer will bake my alternator again damn.
Replaced right rear caliper, Added sway bar, LSD Rear diff installed.

Driveline refresh, 2 U joints/dog bones and caps replaced. Lobro fill with grease. Filled both carrier bearing bushings one with 3m window and the other with roofing silicone.

Replaced MAF and CAS, cas to black top.

Welded and repaired waste gate actuator and safety wired the arm. Used both mounting bolts and bent the actuator rod to more easily reach the same curve of the flapper. Slid flapper sleeve back into hot side.

Re-did timing, idle set screw and computer idle setting.
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