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2G Base timing HKS gears

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I paid retail for mine too 😆. From what the other guys said i don't think there is a difference quality wise between the belts labeled "HKS" as opposed to "HKS Gates" at least thats what i got out of it.
 
Ok guys so i did it i ordered a pair of HKS adjustable purple gears and 2 new oem center bolts. This will delay driving but i think it will be a very nice addition to the build, plus it will have a dash of eye candy to enjoy when the hoods open.:hellyeah:
 
I should get my gears today or so and i was wondering if you guys tight the the adjustment bolts to make sure they are tight enough so they don't slip? With that said what is a good torque to tighten them to? Do you guys use any thread lock on any of the cam main bolts or angle adjustment bolts?
 
Follow the specs on them from hks i never touched my fidanzas, they came with my cams and i left them alone. Cam main bolts nope just torqued them .
 
I should get my gears today or so and i was wondering if you guys tight the the adjustment bolts to make sure they are tight enough so they don't slip? With that said what is a good torque to tighten them to? Do you guys use any thread lock on any of the cam main bolts or angle adjustment bolts?
Anyways, check sometimes and re-torque if necessary. While you are running common valve springs/cams, probably no need to do that often, but you should check more often when you would upgrade valve springs with very high pressure valve springs and more agressive cams or after pulling the car hard. Like with the Kiggly race only springs or if you would shim springs, it would get slipped or the bolts would get loose.
 
The ones on STM look a little brighter than yours, are they different than yours or is it just an optical illusion from the pictures brightness?
I would say it's just a photography illusion. With that much bright white in the pic, it would make anything look a bit off color.

I'm glad mine are darker in person. Looks better to me.
 
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so i think i may just be paranoid and tired from a long day but does the crank pully look like its at TDC or is it off slightly? I have the tension good to where the G pin moves in and out easy. And the cam gear lock is in.
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I heard that the non OEM kevlar belts are too tight? Are coloured belts really any better than OEM?
 
I heard that the non OEM kevlar belts are too tight? Are coloured belts really any better than OEM?
For certain the HKS are they are tried and true great quality belt. Mine wasn't too tight at all. Genuine OEM belts get the job done very well. But would suggest a higher quality stout belt if you have alot of extra power under the hood to keep your engine in time and not fail destroying the majority of your engine. I think it is mostly your personal preference as to what belt you use. Personally i love HKS products i just can't buy alot of them $$$$$$$$$
 
Good point. I thought the EVO OEM belts were Kevlar? Maybe not. I have vintage HKS cams going into my engine build.
 
I don't mean to piggy back off this thread, but I'm gonna for the sake of sharing info. I just timed my engine, twice. First time following the timing marks on the HKS gears as they were when shipped. I wasn't satisfied as all the marks lined up, but the 12 o' clock position if the camshaft dowel pins were not at 12. Also the tensioner arm was bottomed out on the tensioner itself. Decided to realign the position of the cam dowels to be at 12, and still have the timing marks lined up. Retimed the engine. Still the tensioner arm is bottomed out. So still not in time. And the crank mark looks to be possibly 1 tooth off. Any advice? The 1st cam pic is before I adjusted from how they shipped. The other 3 pics are after retiming.

This is a 6 bolt with 2g head, oem crank, Kelford cams.

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*Edit*
I just rotated the crank another 6 revolutions. Got the tensioner to add a little space, not as much as I'd like, but close. I typically call it good once I can snugly roll the grenade pin into the gap.

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First time following the timing marks on the HKS gears as they were when shipped.
I guess this ⌃ is the cause. Probably you got confused by mixing up DSM/EVO timing marks.
This HKS cam gear shares dowel pin with EVO 4-9 and a timing mark for EVO4~9 is located at one tooth off to the right of dowel pin hole/DSM 12 o'clock line (That is causing the situation complicated), which means if you make the horizontal timing marks lined-up, the "tooth" that has the zero degree line with a circle mark (the blue circle) won't be at 12 o'clock and it "looks" like the dowel position is off even it's in the right place.
Make the inner and outer pulley lined-up as you received (like the first pic you uploaded) and try to re-time by taking your time. Focus on only the horizontal timing marks and the dowel pin position. Ignore the degree mark/scales when you set the belt. Maybe if you paint the tooth in the green circle would visually make it easier to set the dowel at 12 o'clock.
And as for the tensioner, please refer the 3rd pic below.

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Loosen the tensioner until that grenade pin slides in and out without restriction in its "set" hole and remains that way after 15 mins and 6 rotations Tom.
 
@DSMPT ,when I do focus on just the horizontal timing marks, the dowels are not at 12, when the gears are adjusted to their factory zero. Also using the tooth circled in green does not allow the dowels to be at 12 without adjusting them.

@1990TSIAWDTALON , That's what I do already for the grenade pin. I usually don't have a problem with the tensioner, but think I am this time only because of the gears not being in time.


In any case, I can't get back to working on it now. I'm now at work until late tonight. Will reset timing tomorrow.
 
Tom, you may have to put a degree wheel on to be sure, or mark the new gears with a set of factory gears laying on top of them so you don't hurt any valves. Don't want anyone else to go through that like me. 4 years down now due to 16 bent valves but it should be back together this summer.
 
Tom, you may have to put a degree wheel on to be sure, or mark the new gears with a set of factory gears laying on top of them so you don't hurt any valves. Don't want anyone else to go through that like me. 4 years down now due to 16 bent valves but it should be back together this summer.

I've already been wanting to get one and learn how to use it. Due to the money and time I've put into this engine, and the car, I'm not willing to take a chance I could have avoided.
 
Someone had a setup in the classifieds not to long ago. Not sure if it sold or not.
 
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