Bad idle due to headlights?

[Mitsubishiown]

Okay guys I have made a few threads on here for this problem but seems like nothing has been precise on stopping this issue. I fist replaced the alternator and battery. Waited about a week and they both still test fine. Whenever I turn my headlights on my car idles like shit and drives horribly and has no throttle response. With the headlights off it is perfectly fine. At a complete lose I don't know what to do.

 

[KFive]

Not sure about your other posts but have you checked all your ground points? I've seen this issue with other cars and many are solved by cleaning/tightening grounding points.

 

[Mitsubishiown]

Where are all the ground points? I know of the ground that attaches to the firewall kind of from the negative battery terminal?

 

[ja74camaro]

I work at a auto parts store for 10 years and the 2g's ard very badto melt the large plug in connector on the alternator, just a suggestion to double check it as it can cause all sorts of problems!!!!

 

[Mitsubishiown]

I work at a auto parts store for 10 years and the 2g's ard very badto melt the large plug in connector on the alternator, just a suggestion to double check it as it can cause all sorts of problems!!!!

Alright thank you how do I check that?

 

[TrevorS]

Damn, I had this very problem with my 1G, every time I stopped at a light at night (headlights on), the idle dropped and it started trying to die. Behavior was as if the idle control servo wasn't working (or else perhaps, the idle switch was miss-adjusted). I solved my problem by wiping the contacts of connectors between the firewall located harness and the TB (idle speed now compensates for the headlight induced drop). Problem hasn't recurred, but not sure how much this helps you -- good luck !

 

[luv2rallye]

You should have a large cable going from battery negative to firewall and another to the starter mounting bolt on tranny bell housing.

Measure your battery voltage with lights on and off. Many, many, many new alts from autostores don't work properly even if they test good there.

 

[Mitsubishiown]

You should have a large cable going from battery negative to firewall and another to the starter mounting bolt on tranny bell housing.

Measure your battery voltage with lights on and off. Many, many, many new alts from autostores don't work properly even if they test good there.

I went to autozone and had them test the alternator with the lights on and off I noticed that the voltage dropped from 13.5 to 12.5 when the lights were on :/

 

[dsm92gsx]

have you tried replacing the alternator relay?

 

[Mitsubishiown]

have you tried replacing the alternator relay?

No I have not maybe I will look into that. Where should I get a new one from?

And by the way guys just messed with the aftermarket gauges the previous owner bought and put on (boost and AFR) and now the car is idling like shit and actually dying every time the car comes to a stop. I have a few questions!

1) Is it okay to completely remove the AFR Gauge and Boost Pressure gauge that the previous owner installed and just drive with no gauges besides the ones on the gauge cluster?

2) Currently there is a HBC Manual boost controller on the car (previous owner) is it okay to remove this and not have a boost controller on the vehicle?

 

[gufi]

sounds like my dsm used to do, replace alt again. or just do the single wire version( self exciting ) saturn alt upgrade. ( i did this and never regreted it after the work was done )

 

[Mitsubishiown]

sounds like my dsm used to do, replace alt again. or just do the single wire version( self exciting ) saturn alt upgrade. ( i did this and never regreted it after the work was done )

Is there a thread about how to do this?

Please Read Below!

Okay guys. This problem is directly related to the AFR gauge and the Boost Pressure gauge. I undid the black wire from the boost pressure gauge that was connected to a black wire coming from the AFR gauge and that is when my car idled like shit and died (with or without headlights on). I just went and hooked up these two black wires to eachother again and now it only idles bad when the headlights are on. The previous owner has a wire from the boost pressure gauge tapped right into the high beam fuse in the under the hood fuse box. He also replaced the 10a fuse that should be there with a 25a fuse (probably kept getting blown). Not sure what to do!

 

[moronthr33]

well rewire the gauges the right way put in the right rating fuse and go from there

 

[Mitsubishiown]

well rewire the gauges the right way put in the right rating fuse and go from there

But what I'm saying is shouldn't I be able to remove both gauges and have the car function completely normal?

 

[Mitsubishiown]

Any thoughts? Going to take it apart tomorrow and plug the hole that had the boost pressure gauge vacuum running to it. What do I plug it with?

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

A small vacuum hose and close off the hose by sticking something in it or closing it/clamping it somehow.