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Axle Seal Replacement

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WaWaZat

15+ Year Contributor
73
0
Jul 29, 2004
Chicago, Illinois
Does anyone know of a good step-by-step for axle seal replacement on a 2G FWD? I've heard if not done right, they will still leak. And hopefully it will save me from removing parts that don't need to be removed. Is a seal removal tool needed?
 
Pick up a set of those assorted pry bars (orange handle) for $9.99 at any auto parts store/Walmart. Assuming you already know how to pull the axles (VFAQ ), just pry the old ones out of the tranny (pry from the inside of the seal out).

Installation of new seals is done by :
1.) cleaning out all debris from the seal surface the
2.) apply a dab of grease to the outer surface of ther new seal
3.) using a large socket the same diam as the seal gently tap into the tranny (can also use a block of wood, just need to apply even pressure to the seal so it goes in evenly and does not disort/get cut.
4.) dab of grease on the seal lip and reinstall the halfshafts.

May want to pickup a Haynes/Chiltons as both have nice step-by-steps with pics ;) :dsm:
 
Will removing the control arms, etc, required to pull the drive shafts out of the trans mess w/the alignment?
 
If you are just removing the bolts for the suspension and not replacing any parts (ball joints, etc), you shouldn't be affecting anything and therefore your answer would be "no".
 
The manuals gives instructs on how to take out the drive shafts, but they have you disconnecting them from the hubs. I hear you don't have to do all that to change seals. If I remove the L control arm (2 bolts from the end that connects to chassis) and the lateral arm completely ( 1 bolt ea side) won't the hub assembly pull away taking the drive shaft with it?

Also, DSM90AWD, the VFAQ link you posted says about removing the contol/lateral arms; "WARNING: I have been told that this method will mess up your alignment, so take into account that you will need to fix that after you reassemble your car." Can anyone confirm this is in fact the case?
 
Just unbolt the tierod and the single bolt up top that holds the control arm to your camber. You might have to remove the brake calipers, I forget. Then pry the axle out. You may have to pull down on the control arm to completely remove the axle from the transmission, do not pull excessively, it is not good for the CV joint.
 
Is it really necessary to remove the tierod??? I'd have to do an alignment then, right?
 
i've never bothered to remove the tie rod ends, thats just me though, just take off that nut for the control arm ball joint, then hit the spindle pretty square with a hammer to pop it up, then remove the bolt, and then take an impact wrench and remove that 32mm axle nut (take the cotter pin out first) then you can get the axle out (make sure to unbolt that shock mount from the control arm, push the mount up and over the control arm, and then you can get the axle out with no problems), thats how i do it..
 
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