AWD Conversion/Swap Guys Enter Here - Advanced. [Merged 2-07]

[turboglenn]

Haven't had time to check and see what's up with mine yet. Just haven't had the time. But the gas light will come on. I'm gonna check the passenger side unit and hope that's all it is. I don't have a hole cut in the driver's side....yet. Really don't wanna drop my tank just to check this crap. Trying to buy my driveshaft on the 6th and that'd be a great time to do it if I have to do it though. Pretty sure my wiring is correct though....I hope.

Question though. Does anyone know if it'd matter if I have my ignition on while trying to move the unit around to see if that helps? Or would I need to make sure there's no power on, etc. Just figure I could wiggle it around and watch the gauge to see if that'd help. Versus wiggling it around and not knowing if that'll fix the issue.

If you still have access to the donor car or have a junkyard where you can pick small parts you can get the access panel for the driver's side sneding unit access and just cut the metal out above the hanger/sender then drill holes and use screws to mount the plate over top of the hole you cut. That's how i did mine.

As forleaving the ignition on while checking the fuel gauge you can, but the gauge moves rather slow so you'd be sitting there a while. There's "dots" on the sending unit caps that align with marks on the tank so you know you have it right. They are hard to see and a light layer of dust will easily cover them but they ARE there. really it's a simple thing to do if you just look at the arm on the sending unit and make sure it lays inside the baffle on the passenger side. The driver's side i don't recall having a baffle to sit in so i think it's a little less picky.

My "low fuel" light comes on the first time around 1/4 tank andthen goes off for a while and will light up very dim from time to time intill i'm just below an 1/8th a tank and then it lights up solid

hope that's some usefull info for ya

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Yes it is. Being that I have the fuel tank and rear subframe in (been driving it in fwd mode with all of the awd parts, minus the driveshaft), it'd be a royal pain to drop the tank.....which has fuel in it. If the passenger side is all I have to mess with, that'd be great. Never noticed any marks so I'm gonna look for em, and then mark it with a paint pen so I don't have this problem anymore. Yesterday I tried to just visually line it up but everytime I tried to tighten it, the whole fuel pump assembly would turn as well....so knowing about the dots to line up is great info to have. Sure that applies for others as well. If I can't find the dots, I may just line it up as close as I can, then mark it with the paint pen anyway....that way I'll know if it's spinning any when I'm trying to tighten it. Guessing it spins and then the float is getting stuck on the side of the baffle and then not wanting to go up?

Oh yeah, and no donor car. But if this fixes it, I'll leave it for now. I'll fabricate a plate later on if need be. Thanks a BUNCH for that tid bit of information that. Was just about ready to drop the tank. Hoping I don't have to now.

 

[Gus@RRE]

Gus, what upgrades are you doing to the differentials? I hope the shop let you use the lifts to do your conversion. Beats the hell out of crawling around on the ground!

I'll be using an evo rear diff, and possibly a cusco 35/65 as a center (starting to doubt i'll need this for my purpose).

Using a lift did make it a whole lot easier installing everything, but i still disassembled my gsx donor in my driveway at home.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Okay so I went and checked it out. Didn't notice the 2 dots, and then the line on the tank until it was mentioned on here...

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So I got it lined up and then bolted everything back up. Turned it on and the gauge was on empty and light was on. Soooo, I cut the floor board above the other sensor but in a way that I could just fold it up and move it back until I can fabricate a cover. The driver's side had the same 2 dots and line but it was already lined up perfectly. Pulled the driver's side sending unit out anyway to verify and uh, I was almost out of fuel. Lol.

So guess I'll have to fill it up and then check again. Hopefully it's working right.

 

[eclipsh]

I'll be using an evo rear diff, and possibly a cusco 35/65 as a center (starting to doubt i'll need this for my purpose).

Evo rear as in Evo 3? I've wondered if the stock rear LSD could be repacked the same way the Evo 3 is (if I have my facts right) to tighten it up.

I can't imagine a situation where the Cusco 35/65 would be a bad thing to have. I wish I could swing putting one in my Galant.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

I'm thinking of cutting holes in the floor and dropping bolts in for the front bracket. Does anyone see regular bolts from like Home Depot being an issue? I'd prefer cutting holes in the floor and then seal it off, versus drilling all the spot welds out, then having to rivet/weld the bracket back on.

 

[99gst_racer]

I'm thinking of cutting holes in the floor and dropping bolts in for the front bracket. Does anyone see regular bolts from like Home Depot being an issue? I'd prefer cutting holes in the floor and then seal it off, versus drilling all the spot welds out, then having to rivet/weld the bracket back on.

You would have to keep the "seal" on the floor non-permanent because you'd need to access the bolt heads every time you install/uninstall the driveshaft.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Yeah, plan to get some of the rubber grommet thingy's like they use on the bottom of the car close to the fuel tank area. Just didn't know if I needed to worry about the strength of the bolts or not though.

 

[97gst_spyder]

That's what I did. I also riveted the rear mount. Both are fine. I just blew the front axles yesterday, and they haven't shown an issue.

 

[eclipsh]

You could always put a square washer around the bolt head and tack it on so that it doesn't spin while it is in the bracket. It'd save you the headache of finding a second person to hold a wrench up above while you're down below (or vice versa). That is, of course, unless your reach is much, much longer than mine

Tack welding the heads of the bolts into place would be a nice easy solution too and closer to the stock setup.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Well, the nuts and bolts I needed came in from the dealer today so went and picked them up. Then got off at 9 pm and started working on it. Didn't get to finish cause it's already after midnight and I have school early in the morning.

Anyway, figured some people might want some pics. Was working on the front mount and dropping the bolts in from the top versus taking off the mount and then welding/riveting it back on. I hate drilling out the spot welds but the work involved to drop the bolts from the top might have taken a little longer (but to me, was worth it). Had to pull the passenger side seat and the console. Took a screw driver, put it through the holes in the bracket, and hammered it in from the bottom to figure out where to drill. Although on the passenger side hole I didn't get it centered just right. Anyway, to start with, you might want one of these. A stepped drill bit. Otherwise you'll be pissed when you realize there's a lot of metal the drill through.

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And this is about where you'd have to drill on the passenger side to drop the bolt in. Of course I have the socket sitting in the hole.

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On the driver's side I just hammered it in straight up (although you probably have to hold it to the side on the passenger side to get the side of the tunnel). You'll need to unbolt the shifter base as well, and move it to the side.

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Amazingly enough, there's about 3 layers of metal you have to drill through on the driver's side, and I think 2 layers on the passenger side.

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And here's the rear bracket. Notice all the holes in it from where I had to drill out the spot welds on the donor car. So I'll be putting in as many rivets as I possibly can.

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I have the bracket under the car now and 4 rivets in it at the moment. But I broke my drill bit and that's when I decided to call it quits for the evening. I'll post more when I get the chance. Of course I'll be back at it again tomorrow night after work.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Alrighty, remember when I said that it may be more work to pull the seat and console out and to drill holes in the floor to drop bolts in might be more work??? Um yeah, totally ignore the hell out of that statement. Especially if ya plan to rivet it. I'm sure there's less work involved if you have to just weld in the brackets but riveting it would come in handy if you don't have a way to get it welded. Like duh!!!

But anyway, droping the bolts in through the floor is soooo much easier after I experienced the joys of drilling and riveting the rear bracket onto the car. Ohhhh the fun. Anyway, the driveshaft is FINALLY on but the end of it where the transfer case goes on was really rusted up inside and it's making it REALLY hard to get the transfer case on. I cleaned it out as good as I could and then tapped the end of it some to get it started. Then it didn't wanna come back off. Great. So I've been hammering the case onto the driveshaft just to get it on. Maybe have 1/2 to an inch left to go. Sigh. Anyway, here's a pic of the bracket. Once I get the transfer case bolted up and interior all put back together, I'm done with everything. Finally!!!

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[v8s_are_slow]

So just an update. My transfer case turns out to be for an automatic. So I'll have money to get one from another member on here on the 6th. Gonna swap the yoke as well cause the one on my driveshaft is really rusted up pretty good.

Another thing is that I dropped the car back down on the ground so I could drive it again. After moving the sending units around, the gauge STILL isn't working right. Any ideas??? I've put $20 (5 gallons) in it and it doesn't even get up to 1/4 of a tank. 1/8th of a tank, if that, I believe is the most it's gone up so far. Anyway, ideas anyone?

 

[gofer]

To verify the wiring/level sensor unit is functioning correctly I recommend pulling the fuel pump hanger and lift the float by hand and, with the keys turned to "ON", watch the needle. The damn thing moves slow as hell so it may take 5-10 minutes, however, this method worked for me to verify I had it wired up correctly.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

One of them? Or both of them?

 

[gofer]

One of them? Or both of them?

Just the fuel pump hanger, which is on the passenger side of the tank; once its out just lift that floater arm up and wait for the needle to catch up. I also forgot to mention, although it should go without saying, that you'll need the fp connector plugged in for it to work, too.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Lol, yeah, some of these people ya might have to tell that to.

 

[gorf]

Alrighty, remember when I said that it may be more work to pull the seat and console out and to drill holes in the floor to drop bolts in might be more work??? Um yeah, totally ignore the hell out of that statement. Especially if ya plan to rivet it. I'm sure there's less work involved if you have to just weld in the brackets but riveting it would come in handy if you don't have a way to get it welded. Like duh!!!

But anyway, droping the bolts in through the floor is soooo much easier after I experienced the joys of drilling and riveting the rear bracket onto the car. Ohhhh the fun. Anyway, the driveshaft is FINALLY on but the end of it where the transfer case goes on was really rusted up inside and it's making it REALLY hard to get the transfer case on. I cleaned it out as good as I could and then tapped the end of it some to get it started. Then it didn't wanna come back off. Great. So I've been hammering the case onto the driveshaft just to get it on. Maybe have 1/2 to an inch left to go. Sigh. Anyway, here's a pic of the bracket. Once I get the transfer case bolted up and interior all put back together, I'm done with everything. Finally!!!

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Nice riveting job! There are one or two that look a little close, but I am sure there is a reason for it.

JMHO but I thought riveting was easier then welding. I tried to weld it first, but with my car on jack stands there was not enough room to get under the car and avoid the weld splatter. It would be different if you had the car on a hoist.

I like your idea of cutting hole and dropping the bolts in from the top, I wish I had thought of.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

I was in a cramped space and arms were getting tired from holding the drill. So yeah, that's the reason for them being so close. Lol. Was also closing my eyes while drilling. Years back I had metal shavings get in my eye and didn't wanna repeat the process.

Anyway, just an update, the transfer case I had was for an automatic so wouldn't bolt up. Figures. But didn't like how hard it was to get the driveshaft in it anyway so ordered another transfer case and a new yoke today. Hopefully this will all be done next week.

Also found out the reason why my gas gauge wasn't working. Apparently, $20 in fuel isn't CRAP for premium fuel. Lol. I filled it all the way today (after I took out a loan from the bank to afford to fill up my car) and it worked just fine. Figures. Bunch of work for nothing. Oh well. Anyway, can't wait for my parts to get in. Planning a track day April 22nd.

 

[DsMWookie]

My gas gauge was slow to react even after putting 4 gallons in.

Glad to see the swap coming along man. We've been enjoying the Spyder now and it has been a blast.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

I've been planning this swap since before I owned this car (over 3 years now) and it's FINALLY done!!!! I'm so excited to drive my car tomorrow. Looks like it's time to update my mods list finally. Sure appreciate all the help and parts from people that helped me out. This has been a pain so think it'll finally pay off. Time for bed for me now and getting ready for the track this Sunday. Woohoo!!!

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Just wanted to drop in and post an update. I finally sorted out all my tuning issues and took it to the local 1/8th mile track this past Sunday. My launches sucked cause I really didn't have time to get use to it but I still pulled off a 7.8 run. I'm use to it now though I think so next time I hope to do much better. And boost will be cranked up beyond the 22 psi I ran that day. Anyway, enjoy. Last video is me actually getting a good launch.

7.892 1/8th mile time - YouTube
7 9 Run - YouTube
Dsm awd 6k rpm launch - YouTube

 

[okm12346]

IF anyone cares....this is a 22mm Addco sway bar for 3g Eclipse fitting perfectly with 3g control arms on AWD subframe

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[v8s_are_slow]

Any advantage of it though? That's what I'd be wondering.

 

[mattsGSTeclipse]

So I'm having issues with my gas gauge. using this diagram:
2G Spyder - FWD To AWD Conversion - Columbus DSM Forums
there's two yellow/black wires on the second sensor and was wondering which one I need to tap into the fuel pump harness?