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tstkl

Proven Member
3,873
61
Feb 10, 2005
SoCal, California
I'm still in here every few days or so. The older I get the slower I make progress. And adult responsibilities keep getting in the darn way of having fun. Currently debating on whether I actually want a new project or not.
You do.


Did we ever figure out what happened with Defiant?
 

twicks69

Supporting Vendor
4,018
1,222
Mar 12, 2004
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Yeah its been a while, Tim. :) How you doing?
You know, doing family life with my kids, still somehow building transmissions LOL (mostly other platforms than DSM since the parts are dried up), watching my car grow old on jackstands when it should just get sold, you know.... the norm.

Staying alive and keeping a smile on my face through the shitshow.
 

Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
7,885
2,496
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Did someone call for OG guys? :D
Oh man, I liked your old avatar better :)

Oh hell. Wasn't your car in the first or second calendars Ryan? I think a couple people in this thread were. Founds these in a box in the garage recently... and yes, I'm keeping these ones. :)

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agentorange313

Supporting VIP
2,015
93
Dec 21, 2008
Westfield, New_Jersey
I'm still here and even more involved with Mitsus/DSM than ever before. Added a few more cars to the collection since I joined in '08, 91 galant vr4 and an evo now. IDK if I would consider myself an OG but I never left the game and probably never will. Its less expensive when all my cars have the same engine and when parts work across different models. No kids or wife still... so all I have are my toys LOL
 
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steve

DSM Wiseman
14,416
1,368
Feb 3, 2002
St. Charles, Illinois
You guys remember posting in the daily talon digest right? You know 5 years before DSMtuners

Todd Day ring a bell?

Maybe it's another senior moment but I remember being on the Talon Digest before I bought my Eclipse in 91
That would make it closer to 10 years before wouldn't it?

As far as I know Todd is still paying to keep the VFAQ site up.
 

yokotabrat

Proven Member
482
37
Mar 11, 2004
Longmont, Colorado
Maybe it's another senior moment but I remember being on the Talon Digest before I bought my Eclipse in 91
That would make it closer to 10 years before wouldn't it?

As far as I know Todd is still paying to keep the VFAQ site up.

I remember the Talon digest days. I was a poor college student at the time so I wasn't able to afford much with my DSM back then.

Todd or Tom? I think Tom Stangl was running the VFAQ site. I met him once. He drove out from California and met up with some of us from Colorado to drive together to the shootout. Fun times.
 

ist dwa

Proven Member
534
295
Nov 5, 2009
Centerville, Ohio
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: Rear Speakers
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 90 2:25:26 PDT
From: [email protected] (Todd Day)
%Does anyone know what size the rear speakers in the Talon are?
Looking at the Electrical Service Manual, it's hard to tell.
They look like 6x9s from the drawing, but I'm not sure. One
thing the drawing does show is that the speakers are roughly
the same size as the outer grill, so that ought to give you
a baseline to start with.
%I've already
%upgraded the front speakers, deck and added a sub-woofer and would like to
%finish the job.
Where did you put the subwoofer? What speakers did you put up
front? Details, details! :)
%The problem is getting to the rear speakers (even to see what
%size they are) requires some time consuming surgery which I would like to
%avoid until I'm ready to install.
Here are the steps for removal of the rear speakers:
1) Remove quarter trim area (big plastic area around speaker).
a) Remove rear seat.
i) Take off the lower seat cushion by pulling up on
the two levers at base.
ii) Remove the clips that hold the back of the seat
to the rear cargo area (1 clip if non-split seat).
iii) Unscrew seat back(s) at the base and remove.
iv) Unscrew and remove the two striker plates.
b) Remove quarter trim.
i) Remove mounting screws and trim clip.
ii) Use plastic trim tool to separate back from side.
2) Unscrew rear speaker.
Note: They don't seem to mention the cover grill anywhere. I guess
it'll just pop right off?
Good luck on your modifications and let us know what happens...
--
Todd Day | [email protected] | ucsbcsl!ivucsb!todd
"Fire up the willing engine, responding with a roar!
Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime..."
--Neil Peart, of Rush; "Red Barchetta", from _Moving Pictures_
------------------------------
Subject: Rear speakers
Date: 15 Aug 90 17:24:29 EDT (Wed)
From: tsdiag.ocpt.ccur.com!moncol!ben (Bennett Broder)
>%The problem is getting to the rear speakers (even to see what
>%size they are) requires some time consuming surgery which I would like to
>%avoid until I'm ready to install.
Access to the rear speakers is extremely easy, requiring less than 10
minutes of effort for disassembly, and about an equal amount of time for
reassembly. I took the rear quarter trim off to cure a rattle that had
developed and was amazed at how easy it was.
>Here are the steps for removal of the rear speakers:
>
>1) Remove quarter trim area (big plastic area around speaker).
> a) Remove rear seat.
> i) Take off the lower seat cushion by pulling up on
> the two levers at base.
Pull up on the levers, lift the front of the seat up an inch or two, then
pull the seat forwards (towards the front of the car). Total time for removal
is about 5 seconds. When you want to put the seat back, just slide the metal
loops (clips) in the slot, push the seat back all the way, then down until it
clicks into place. Total time for rear seat installation, about 20 seconds.
> ii) Remove the clips that hold the back of the seat
> to the rear cargo area (1 clip if non-split seat).
The clips are part of the seat and slide in and out of the slots provided.
> iii) Unscrew seat back(s) at the base and remove.
Not necessary. Just raise and lower the seat back as usual for access to
all the trim clips. When it comes time to remove or reinstall the quarter
trim it is very easy to work around the seat back.
> iv) Unscrew and remove the two striker plates.
Not necessary.
Before removing the quarter trim, you must remove the sill plate. The
sill plate is the piece of plastic on the bottom of the door opening.
Just remove the screws, then lift the sill plate off.
> b) Remove quarter trim.
> i) Remove mounting screws and trim clip.
> ii) Use plastic trim tool to separate back from side.
Since you probably don't have a plastic trim tool, you'll have to use
your fingers. Slide your finger under the part of the quarter trim that
was covered by the sill plate. Pull gently as you slide your hand up
the door opening. The little plastic clips will pop out of their holes
freeing the trim panel.
>2) Unscrew rear speaker.
>
>Note: They don't seem to mention the cover grill anywhere. I guess
> it'll just pop right off?
The grill is part of the quarter trim panel. There is no need to remove
it since the entire quarter trim will be off.
Good Luck.
Bennett Broder Monmouth College
..princeton!moncol!ben Computer Services
..rutgers!petsd!moncol!ben W. Long Branch, NJ 07764
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Tell us your story... [turbo]
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 90 2:13:59 PDT
From: [email protected] (Todd Day)
%Original-From: ixstar!ixdto!ogino (Douglas T. Ogino 708-979-1512 IX1A269)
%
%For you Turbo owners. The owners manual suggests a one minute turbo
%cool down interval if you have been doing fast or hard driving. What
%do users describe as fast/hard driving? That is, under what conditions
%do people stop the car and immediately turn off the engine.
What I do is to drive the last couple miles of my journey at an
easy pace. I try to not use boost at all. Then, I'll let it run
while I gather up anything I'm taking out of the car, or I'll
change CDs. I then turn it off. If I've been doing some performance
driving, I'll usually wait for the CD player to click off a minute of
a song and then I'll shut it off. Small price to pay for extended
turbo life...
--
-Todd-
------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: Gas mileage of Eagle Talon DOHC 16V non-Turbo?
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 90 20:47:55 PDT
From: [email protected] (Todd Day)
%From: Thi Dang Huynh <mips2.cr.bull.com!thi>
%
%My question is this - without changing the computer, can the mechanic
%change the fuel injection setting as to make the car run too lean?
%I have 0 Hydrocarbon so I think my car is running too lean.
I'm not quite clear how fuel injection works as far as the air/fuel
mixture goes, but it seems after looking through the service manuals
that fuel pressure can be increased or decreased by the mechanic. The
electronic control unit (ECU) for the engine only has a solenoid that
turns the fuel on or off. It does not appear to be able to control
the fuel pressure. So, it seems that your mechanic didn't have to
mess with the ECU at all.
BTW, you can change the timing on these cars. You simply move the
crank angle sensor a bit and you will fool the computer into thinking
it's running at a different crank angle.
--
Todd Day | [email protected] | ucsbcsl!ivucsb!todd
"Fire up the willing engine, responding with a roar!
Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime..."
--Neil Peart, of Rush; "Red Barchetta", from _Moving Pictures_
------------------------------
Subject: Dirty Engine Compartment
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 90 07:01:09 -0500
From: dvinci.mitre.org!rll (Roberto L. Landrau)
I have noticed that the engine compartment of my Eclipse (GSX
AWD) gets extremely dirty from the road dirt, rain, etc. Please,
don't think I am picky (oh no, my Eclipse is getting dirty...) about
the car. I just think the reliability of a lot of parts is being
shortened (alternator, PS pump, etc.) because water and other road
debris is being splashed on them. I have never seen any other car get
as bad.
The problem is caused because there is no cover or protector
in the lower part of the engine compartment, like there is in other
cars (there may be one in the FWD models, if so, please let me know).
I have thought about adding one made out of flexible plastic and
bolted on to several places under the car. I am just curious if it
would affect the aerodynamics or the cooling capacity of the vehicle.
I would like to know if this is a design "feature" (Eclipses, Talons
and Lasers don't have flaws, or overlooks, just "features") or if the
lower engine compartment was left open on purpose, for a reason.
Has anyone noticed what I have described? Anyone has any
comments or suggestions?
Roberto L. Landrau
[email protected]
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Dirty Engine Compartment
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 90 17:45:40 PDT
From: [email protected] (Todd Day)
%From: dvinci.mitre.org!rll (Roberto L. Landrau)
%
% I have noticed that the engine compartment of my Eclipse (GSX
%AWD) gets extremely dirty from the road dirt, rain, etc.
Hmmmm... funny you should mention it. I was just going to comment
on how surprised I am that my Talon Tsi AWD engine compartment is
so clean...
The last rallye I was on, it rained the night before and morning of
(yes, that's right... we actually got some rain down here in Santa
Barbara). Parts of one of the highways we had to travel were flooded.
In one part, I put my limited slip differential to the test. There
was mud and about a foot and a half of water on the right hand side of
the road and the middle of the road was simply damp. I put the right
side of the car in the water and the left side on the pavement. I
punched it hard in second. The car just took off in a straight line
with no correction needed by me. Needless to say, I was making some
serious roostertails out of the water.
However, imagine my surprise when I got home and found that there
were just a couple of water/mud splats in the top of the engine
compartment. Needless to say, the bottom of the engine was muddy
a bit, but not nearly as bad as I expected.
% The problem is caused because there is no cover or protector
%in the lower part of the engine compartment, like there is in other
%cars (there may be one in the FWD models, if so, please let me know).
I would think the FWD models would have more of a problem since there
seems to be more airspace up front (especially in the non-turbo model).
I rented a FWD Eclipse GS (non-turbo) for one of my rallyes (it had an
automatic), and the engine compartment was filthy.
%I have thought about adding one made out of flexible plastic and
%bolted on to several places under the car. I am just curious if it
%would affect the aerodynamics or the cooling capacity of the vehicle.
Hmmmm... it might affect cooling of the turbo. This is something I
wouldn't want to mess with, as those turbos can get red hot.
At least the thing is pretty easy to clean. All the spark plugs
are covered and theres nothing else on top that you have to worry
about getting wet.
--
Todd Day | [email protected] | ucsbcsl!ivucsb!todd
"Fire up the willing engine, responding with a roar!
Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime..."
--Neil Peart, of Rush; "Red Barchetta", from _Moving Pictures_
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Anti-theft systems
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 90 20:30:34 PDT
From: [email protected] (Todd Day)
%From: ucsbcsl!newton.mitre.org!m21373 (Roberto Landrau --
[email protected] -- (617) 271-2302)
%%
I have noticed that sometimes if I unlock the tailgate before
%I unlock the doors the alarm will trigger (very annoying in the
%morning: I leave my house at 6:00 am).
This used to happen to me, even right after I got the car, UNTIL....
I started twisting the key all the way to the right. I think what's
happening is that the key turns far enough to unlock the hatchback,
but not quite far enough to turn off the alarm. Therefore, you have
to twist until you hit resistance to make sure the alarm goes off.
%I just finished installing one last week and I have a list of
%convenient connection points to the wiring harness (lights, door
%switches, starter inhibitor, ignition, etc.). You can send me e-mail
%and if there is enough interest I can post the list.
Post it. I'll put it in the archive server.
--
Todd Day | [email protected].ca.us | ucsbcsl!ivucsb!todd
"Fire up the willing engine, responding with a roar!
Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime..."
--Neil Peart, of Rush; "Red Barchetta", from _Moving Pictures_
------------------------------
Subject: catching up on the mail...
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 90 08:33:31 -0700
From: Ken Gee <fred.nas.nasa.gov!gee>
Here are my thoughts on some of the subjects discussed in this group
over the past couple of weeks...
gas mileage:
I have an Eagle Talon with the 2.0 liter, non-turbo and 5 speed and I have
averaged between 25 to 30 miles/gallon in mostly city/mostly highway
driving (O.K. So I drive in a fairly tame manner most of the time to keep
my economy up, but with gas hitting $1.50/gallon around these parts and
tires going for around $180/each, I want to be as conservative as I can...
most of the time...:)
engine compartment:
I've put on 15k miles so far, and the engine compartment looks fairly clean
to me...There is, however, a fine layer of dust on everything, but isn't
that to be expected?
tires:
I seem to remember (through the fog) that there was a discussion on rec.autos
a while back about the merits of Comp T/As by Uniroyal. They are supposed
to be as good as the Goodyears and somewhat cheaper...but the discussion
was somewhat clouded by the fact that Uniroyal makes a full line of T/A
tires and some (like the Euro T/As...?) were zero performance pieces of ....
and, finally:
I just got my 15k service done at a dealer and when all the paperwork
was done, I discovered that the dealer also repaired my brakes for
warpage under warranty. Now, since my warranty ran out about 3k miles ago,
the dealer either did this out of the kindness of their hearts (big, big, big
:) ) or there is some kind of factory repair order out on the brakes (since
there has been a warping problem with the brakes in these fine automobiles)
or I may just have misunderstood the amount of coverage in the 7/70 part
of the warranty. Just thought y'all would want to know...
| Ken Gee | e-mail: [email protected] |
| MCAT Institute, MS 258-1
|================================================|
| NASA/Ames Research Center | Nothing in life is free...nothing in life is |
| Moffett Field, CA 94035 | fair...which is why everybody wants something |
| My opinions are free, which is exactly what they are worth. |
------------------------------
Subject: The One Year Review
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 90 08:02:20 PDT
From: case.MENTOR.COM!garyw (Gary Waxman)
This group is great! I've really enjoyed reading
everyones input. I finally have some spare time to
share my own thoughts and questions. I look
forward to other folks input.
First, let me say that september was the one year
anniversary for my car (Talon 2.0L non-turbo). I now have
over 16k miles on the car.
I've had some real fun out of those miles, especially since
I live 3 miles, yes 3 miles from work.
So what do I think after one year:
ENGINE:
The 135HP engine could use about 25 more horses. Now, this
is strictly personal opinion mined you. But coming off a 5.0L
Mustang may have something to do with that. But, all in all,
it's enough to pass without thinking, and if you wind her up
to 5 or 6 grand, she flies pretty good. Although, I don't like
to do this to the engine on a regular basis, but sometimes
certain roads (and music) beg for it. I think the added horses would
make this car the top of its class, and better suited for the model
below the turbo. Has anybody heard of such plans, I know the 240SX
just got a boost to 160HP.
The gearbox is a little notchy, but I kind of like that. I like to
feel I'm working the engine.Probably stupid, but it doesn't bother me.
The throws are rather long compared to other cars. For example the
the VW Golf GTI, especially their new '91 16V.
I change my oil (Castrol GTX) and filter (FRAM) every 3k miles. I
change my plugs and other filters at 15k miles. I do all the
work myself, and it takes about 20 minutes. This engine is a dream
to work on. I plan on keeping this car for at least 100k miles, so I
hope the remaining 85k are as good as the first 15k.
I can't find an air filter in any stores, only the dealer. Anyone
see otherwise? Only FRAM has a replacement number in the books, but
I have never seen a filter on the shelf.
INTERIOR:
When I first bought the car, I loved the interior. I still do, but
have some complaints. I'm almost 6'2", and need to push the seat all
the way back.No problem, but to be comfortable I also need to position
the "seat back" further back. This is a problem for a non-electric
seat since I can't get the position that I like the most. It needs one
more notch in between for me. Also, the seat does not retain it's
position if you lift the seat forward for rear access,and since I work
so hard to get comfortable this is a pain for me. They need a rear
access switch to overcome this (other cars have it).
The dash layout is superb. Not one complaint, GM should take note.
A pop-out cup holder would be a great addition, and I am surpised they
don't have one since Chrysler was one of the first to offer this in
their other cars. I never use the one in the armrest since it's in an
inconvienent location for me.
The design of the console which has several small lines molded to look
like a fold as it creeps up the dash is tough to keep clean. Ditch it!
Picky yes, but hey we're entitled at these prices :)
The dead pedal is great.
EXTERIOR:
Even a year later the car gets a lot of looks and questions. Just this
morning as I walked into my office, a co-worker asked me "what kind of
car is that". This is a very familiar song. I also had a Porsche owner
follow me into the grocery store to ask me questions about it.
He was considering buying one.
I really like the Talon lines better than Chrysler because I like the
rear spoiler. But it's all personal opinion. The wheels are great
for stock, but I would really like to replace them with gold deep
well honeycomb rims (my car is red).
The wheels are tough to get 100% clean because of their plastic
coating, but at least they are protected.
My big complaint is rock chips on the front hood. I have LOTS of them.
Does anybody else have this problem? Here in the Northwest we don't
have snow in the city, and the roads are not nearly as bad as my home
town of Boston. Is it possible the paint job just plain stinks? I
suspect it's just bad luck, and thelow profile hood. I'm picking at
straws, but there are not many of these cars around here for me to
compare with. I would like to hear about those of you who use bras,
and how much of the hood they cover. Are they the mini-bras, or full
face?
How much did they cost?
When I bought my car they didn't have the bras out yet, and now it's
probably too late.
BRAKES:
I have not been pleased with the brakes. Even with 4-wheel disc
brakes, they are not that great. Each day they feel different. Some
days they feel strong, mostly they are mushy. I already had them
check them once, and they found no problems. They have also screeched
from day one. I'm told this is common with semi-metallic brakes, and
there is nothing they can do. The special solutions that are supposed
to quiet them are only temporary, so it's not worth the hassle.
SUMMARY:
Overall, I love the car. Next year I'll re-paint the hood and continue
on my way to 100k miles. This car is an excellent example of how an
American car company can build a decent car. Yeah, the engine is a
Mitsubishi, but Chrysler designed the interior/exterior.
Would I buy another one? The convertible, YES (if they make it)!
But not another hard top, because I never buy the same car twice. I'm
a car nut, and I like to try different cars. The same car over and
over is boring. But I highly recommend this car. I have not driven the
240SX, but I have drove the remaining competitors, and it wins easily
(biased opinion of course). The price is great ($12.5-13k for a loaded
non-turbo), and the quality is superb.
I hope this helps out some folks, and look forward to other comments!
GAR.
------------------------------
 
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