The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support Rix Racing

Automatic transmission track preparation questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rmatthew987

Probationary Member
8
0
Jan 1, 2014
norfolk, Virginia
I've recently purchased an auto 1g tsi and would like to take the car to the 1/4 mile track. What upgrades can and should be done prior to going besides standard maintenance. I would like to know what people are doing to their transmissions to make them stronger and work better.
 
How is 100$ for a chip and 150 ish 175$ for a shift box not feasable..Just wondering?

Where did I use the term, "not feasible?" I believe I said I couldn't justify it. Not being feasible and not being justified are two completely different concepts.

It's not justified to me because that extra $50 to $75 could be spent elsewhere, and I am happy with the performance of my less expensive setup. I am not saying it's not a justified purpose for anyone else. It looks like a great product, and I have seen nothing but good reviews. I am sure it's an excellent choice for some. Just not for me at this point in time for reasons I outlined above.
 
Ok I speak with complete experience!! STAY AWAY FROM IPT I didn't get 1000 miles out of my trans and the front diff explodes

Second a better converter is needed precision industries in tn makes the best 9.5" billet converter second get the Kiggly stuff front diff support saddle and his clutch plates and get the translab shift kit slt-175 hp is the part number
And last but not least they are right about the forcedfour.com shift boxes they an amazing piece and the Kiggly rewire can be done for $4 at home and gives you the best shifts
WTF:toobad: How "complete" is your expeience?? People leave lame comments, seriously moving on though...:rolleyes:
Welded center diff would be better in drag imo, especially putting out serious power. U turns suck though LOL.
There are other people like Jacks, Metro as well that build performance trans should you need it.
 
Would bigger brakes or an Audi vacuum pump be needed for a 20g or something even as big as an FP 3065 turbo? Thanks for all the input on the auto tranny:hellyeah:.

That's going to depend on how high you take the rpms, do you have anti lag or not, what converter you have, blah blah blah.

I have a restalled stock converter, and brake boost to 4000rpm w/o antilag and get about 13psi and the car doesn't budge. My brakes are outlander calipers/rotors, 3G master cylinder and brake booster, and an audi vac pump and my car does NOT move.

What about using a chipped TCU for 100% line pressure as well as manual shifting with the stock shifter? How does that compare to using a shift box?

I would like to know this as well, as one of the maps on my TCU chip is 100% pressure and manual mode, so I shift with the stock shifter.
 
Would bigger brakes or an Audi vacuum pump be needed for a 20g or something even as big as an FP 3065 turbo? Thanks for all the input on the auto tranny:hellyeah:.
Yes to both turbos. I run an FP3065 and would easily blow through the brakes without my vacuum pump. I have dual piston front brakes with race pads and a mini air compressor plumbed backward as my vacuum pump wired through a relay to my brake pedal. Even a 16G will easily pull through the brakes without a vacuum pump. Also, an ignition box such as a Dynatek ARC-2 or MSD DIS-2 is essential to have the best braking ability during brake boosting. The reason is that the ignition 2-step that the boxes have works wonders at removing the torque being produced by the engine by pulling timing while still keeping the boost up. Also, it will keep the turbo from making additional boost because the 2-step will maintain whatever RPM point you specify. Therefore, the brakes aren't holding back nearly as much power due to the decreased timing but the boost is still screaming and when you let off the brake, the timing will immediately ramp back up and the boost is already there waiting....

Just don't forget to bring a change of undies the first time it all works correctly... :sneaky:
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but if you are using a COP setup you can't run an external spark enhancer..

I was looking into DIY Toyota 90919-02240/44 COPs that spoolin up uses for their coil on plug setup they make for the dsm/evo
 
Yes you can. Spark Tech offers a kit that is completely compatible with DIS ignition boxes like the ARC-2 or DIS-2. I don't run COP so I'm no expert as to all of the different combinations that are out there. Maybe there are COP setup that cannot use an additional box. I use good ole NGK wires, stock 1G coils, and NGK BPR7ES plugs gapped to .018" running E98 fuel. Never once had a problem with misfires...
 
Are you buying the e98 by the drum/gallon from a company or do you get your fuel at the pump? I have an "e85" station minutes down the road and would like to use corn fuel but have been told it fluctuates to much by online chemists. Is this true or should I be ok with the e85 the pump has?
 
I always got my E98 from English Racing back in Washington state who get it 500 gallons at a time. I've only been here in Maryland for a year. I'll be getting it by the drum now that I don't have an easy supplier. I know plenty of people, myself included, that have had great success with pump E85. Yes, stations do fluctuate with the ethanol % but it usually doesn't make a serious difference. If you buy E85 at 85% ethanol and it goes down to 70% then you'll go rich. Obviously it will go lean going from 70% to 85%. That is just a simple change of your global fuel % in DSMLink and maybe a degree of timing pulled/added under load depending on the situation. Easy stuff.
 
Ok I speak with complete experience!! STAY AWAY FROM IPT I didn't get 1000 miles out of my trans and the front diff explodes

Second a better converter is needed precision industries in tn makes the best 9.5" billet converter second get the Kiggly stuff front diff support saddle and his clutch plates and get the translab shift kit slt-175 hp is the part number
And last but not least they are right about the forcedfour.com shift boxes they an amazing piece and the Kiggly rewire can be done for $4 at home and gives you the best shifts

I'd love to hear how IPT blew your front diff..... :hmm:
I'm going to assume you're just trying to get your tech posts up by posting this. :nono:

Full pressure line shifts are all you need to get down the track. Installing a cooler/trans temp sensor is a good idea too.
 
Ok I speak with complete experience!! STAY AWAY FROM IPT I didn't get 1000 miles out of my trans and the front diff explodes
I'd love to hear how IPT blew your front diff..... :hmm:
I'm going to assume you're just trying to get your tech posts up by posting this. :nono:
While I may have my own personal ill feelings about IPT based on the experiences of people very close to me, let's just keep this thread about auto setup options and not who sucks and doesn't. Just give a recommendation and leave it at that.
 
Yes you can. Spark Tech offers a kit that is completely compatible with DIS ignition boxes like the ARC-2 or DIS-2. I don't run COP so I'm no expert as to all of the different combinations that are out there. Maybe there are COP setup that cannot use an additional box. I use good ole NGK wires, stock 1G coils, and NGK BPR7ES plugs gapped to .018" running E98 fuel. Never once had a problem with misfires...

+1 stock ignition. :thumb:

If you're just going to track it, why bother with the TCU?

Didn't want to talk about IPT's reputation, just how bad the advice that was given. I can rattle off $2k worth of parts to anyone looking for advice. The reason these cars are fun is because they go fast, cheap. If we wanted to spend money and go slower we'd have supras.
 
Just want to say thank you guys for the input thus far. I've been trying to do some research myself on what's next for my 64k mile auto. Let's keep the suggestions coming!

Also that Outlander brake setup seems to be working very well, and I thought my 2 piston setup with eventual BrakeMan #93 pads would suffice.
 
1. Chip TCU
2. Bigger Tranny Cooler
3. Motor mounts & Tranny Mounts
4. Good Tires

You can check my profile for reference on what I did. I tracked the car prior to getting a chipped tcu. I can say it made a very big difference in performance.
 
Just want to say thank you guys for the input thus far. I've been trying to do some research myself on what's next for my 64k mile auto. Let's keep the suggestions coming!

Also that Outlander brake setup seems to be working very well, and I thought my 2 piston setup with eventual BrakeMan #93 pads would suffice.

The 2-piston calipers are really the key. Any OEM 2-piston caliber will do. The Brake Man #93 pads are amazing and work incredibly well when cold, which is what is needed during launch situations. As was mentioned before, combine a set of 2-piston front brakes, nice pads, vacuum pump, and ignition box with an ignition-cut 2-step and you'll have a brake setup that will hold back nearly anything. No hydraulic staging brakes, line locks, or any of that stuff. People try to make things way more complicated than it needs to be!
 
Where did I use the term, "not feasible?" I believe I said I couldn't justify it. Not being feasible and not being justified are two completely different concepts.

It's not justified to me because that extra $50 to $75 could be spent elsewhere, and I am happy with the performance of my less expensive setup. I am not saying it's not a justified purpose for anyone else. It looks like a great product, and I have seen nothing but good reviews. I am sure it's an excellent choice for some. Just not for me at this point in time for reasons I outlined above.

Justify not feasible.My bad I assumed in this case they meant the same thing.
Almost the same setup as s shift box,since your using a toggle to turn on different shift map and full line pressure..I like both.kinda wish I could take a ride in your chipped tcu car,see how different/ same shifting is compared to a shift box..
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top