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2G Auto turbo choice

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Crackerman

5+ Year Contributor
125
36
Feb 28, 2018
Alvord, Texas
I have just come into a 2g gsx auto and a load of parts.

What it boils down to is I will be installing an ipt converter, translab shift kit, and end clutches. Along with a forced four shift box.

The engine is well built, with zero mechanical issues, and is 8.5:1 with fp2 cams and adjustable cam gears.
This is my FIRST auto dsm.

The car will be a daily driver. (Here comes the I want my cake and to eat it too moment)

I have the choice between 2 turbo/manifold setups.

Setup 1
Fp3082hta (converted from a 3052 back in the day) with for manifold/o2 housing and associated hardware.

Setup 2

Dnp twin scroll divided t4 manifold
Hx35 /12cm housing. Divided t4/t3 adapter, and hardware,

Tial MVR as a wastegate for either setup.


In my experience with the car the engine came out of with the 3082hta, it wasn't a great spooler...
I want these 3 things
1. Reliability (cracked manifolds suck) and it's a driver
2. Brake boost to launch without nitrous, and I am not spending sinister or precision money on a converter.
3. Not switching to a 16g
4. Pump gas premium limited

Which setup is the better fit for my self imposed limitations?

I don't care about fab work, it's nothing new to me. And look forward to piping and such. Just hard part info.
 
HX35, it's what I am planning for my little 6/4 auto car. DSM flange, T3 or T4. Divided will spool the soonest, I believe. I run open T3 on my 5 speed car with a HX40. Others should chime in with their experience on spool rpm's so you can see what others have.
My 5 speed HX40 doesn't lite until around 4500 for reference but it spools later than a 35 anyway. I am able to pull 3000 rpm's on my auto car before it want's to pull through the brakes but it is all stock with the cute little hairdryer 13b. :)
 
@ErikTande is running a TS t3 hx35 and last I knew he loved it, check out his youtube channel if you haven't yet, Velocity labs. Definitely worth watching.

I'm currently running an hx40 in a bep housing and while it's fun, and pretty quick to spool I imagine an hx35 in a TS setup would be even better.
 
Joe, does your auto/HX40 combo spool pretty reasonable? I have spare stuff laying every where that could make my auto car all kinds of fun. :sneaky:
 
If by daily driver, most of your driving is below 90mph I would think the HX35 in a T3 would serve you better. It would have good spool for accelerating from stoplights and the T3 housing would leave you open for upgrade options.

Personally I went with HX40 in the .55 BEP housing because I wanted to stay with the DSM style manifold and to keep my budget low and didn't want to go through having someone build me a custom vband downpipe and exhaust. My motor is being built now so I don't have any feedback for you on how it is on the street. Hopefully I will get the car back in 2 weeks.
 
Our setups are very similar so I can shed a little light on the subject! I run the DSM76 HTA(New XR DSM 61-56) and the turbo is amazing on the street. The DSM82 is a little larger and I feel without the supporting converter you would have an issue with brake boosting it to flash up on the converter. It takes me roughly 3-5 seconds to hit my launch limiter(Still playing with spool tune).

Honestly I would choose the HX35 but run either a true divided setup or swap to a FP race manifold with a Bullseye exhaust housing. The DSM82 would a heck of a turbo but without buying the higher end converter it would not be a great match.
 
If by daily driver, most of your driving is below 90mph I would think the HX35 in a T3 would serve you better. It would have good spool for accelerating from stoplights and the T3 housing would leave you open for upgrade options.

Personally I went with HX40 in the .55 BEP housing because I wanted to stay with the DSM style manifold and to keep my budget low and didn't want to go through having someone build me a custom vband downpipe and exhaust. My motor is being built now so I don't have any feedback for you on how it is on the street. Hopefully I will get the car back in 2 weeks.
Nothing wrong with it BUT, I broke 3 HX40 shafts in a .55 BEP housing. It gets so hot in that little .55 neck that the shaft will glow orange and break. IF you are ever thinking about a 40, use a bigger housing so you don't suffer my fate. I went T3 and BEP .70 for my HX40. If you use the HX35, the .55 housing is fine!
Maybe I push mine harder but just a word to the wise. I twist 9k and 40 lbs of boost so.....
 
Great guy! Thank you for the replies and information!

Anyone want to buy a complete fp turbo setup?
 
Hey, I just want to ad that I run E85 and that .55/E85/HX40 combo will fail so that it is all clear about the failures. Best of luck and I will answer any other questions I can. :thumb:
 
Don't upset me marty. I'm running an hx40/.55 housing combo. saving up to buy a peepers manifold. I'm hitting 24psi by 4100rpm in 3rd in a 5spd. 93 octane. hx35 will spool faster.
 
Nothing wrong with it BUT, I broke 3 HX40 shafts in a .55 BEP housing. It gets so hot in that little .55 neck that the shaft will glow orange and break. IF you are ever thinking about a 40, use a bigger housing so you don't suffer my fate. I went T3 and BEP .70 for my HX40. If you use the HX35, the .55 housing is fine!
Maybe I push mine harder but just a word to the wise. I twist 9k and 40 lbs of boost so.....

Yes I read through a lot of old posts and came across your failures. It's definitely in the back of my mind. I'll be keeping a close eye on it for sure.
 
I figure if this hx35 12cm setup works great, I can always step up to a hx35/40 without any issue.
 
It might just be me over exaggerating, but good luck building any boost in first gear. With a loose converter the car doesn't really build into boost until after the converter is locked, making it comical to spool even a 16g below 4krpms in first gear.

However I should note that brake boosting is about my favorite experience driving any car. Leaving the line at nearly full boost is a very greedy feeling, like you just beat the car and it liked it

But then you fiddle with the radio and look up and the light is green and it's like your car is non turbo unless you really wind it into the rpms in first or second
 
It might just be me over exaggerating, but good luck building any boost in first gear. With a loose converter the car doesn't really build into boost until after the converter is locked, making it comical to spool even a 16g below 4krpms in first gear.

I don't agree with this. I run the 76HTA(54mm) with a Sinister 8c2 and get plenty of boost in first gear haha
 
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Don't upset me marty. I'm running an hx40/.55 housing combo. saving up to buy a peepers manifold. I'm hitting 24psi by 4100rpm in 3rd in a 5spd. 93 octane. hx35 will spool faster.
You will be ok Joe. It was when I started running 109 octane Corn and got above 30 psi that I started heating things up and breaking things, settle down, its gonna be ok. :thumb:
If you go to E85, then you need to think about the problems I had (and your car will amaze you OMG). :)
 
It might just be me over exaggerating, but good luck building any boost in first gear. With a loose converter the car doesn't really build into boost until after the converter is locked, making it comical to spool even a 16g below 4krpms in first gear.

However I should note that brake boosting is about my favorite experience driving any car. Leaving the line at nearly full boost is a very greedy feeling, like you just beat the car and it liked it

But then you fiddle with the radio and look up and the light is green and it's like your car is non turbo unless you really wind it into the rpms in first or second
If you can’t build boost without launching your converter is to tight.

My auto setup with a stock restall, 2.3, and fp red would flash to an rpm where I was building boost in any gear. It felt like a big block. With the car locked in 2nd gear at 15 mph I could punch it and it was like I was slipping the clutch at 5,000 rpms instantly to get the car to take off.


Now with a 2.0 you need a looser converter, but you can get the same effect.
 
My 2g auto has built kiggly parts, an IPT converter, and a BW S363 on a t4 ramhorn feeding a weldon mechanical pump fueled 7-bolt 2.3L in a 1g chassis..... haven't driven it yet so i dunno how it spools LOL.

Welcome back to Mitsubishi hell Graham. Long time no see, I always wondered what happened to you and cars.
 
Turbo'ing my IS300.... not dumping money on dsm's right now. Don't worry though, it's not going anywhere (to anyone else's hands anyway). It's parked in my shop out in Canyon Lake, TX right now waiting for me to pay attention to it.

One of the MAJOR hold ups right now is getting the front cross member on a 1g awd modified to mount the 2nd trans mount that's on a 2g engine. Once that is done everything else should be cake. My gf is going to buy herself a tig welder soon so she is signing herself up for the job.... and all future fab work i need LOL.

I also have an 89 colt gt that is mostly put together/complete.... that i've also been lazy on. It's got a 450hp turbo in it and all the shit to support it. I bought it from a friend that had a kid and needed the money. So that's the lesson people.... don't have kids too early and you won't have to get 2 jobs to support your car habit. :D
 
Currently it's all stock. But the engine I am putting in has a fp3082 and manifold.

So, it's not a problem to change anything on it while the engine is out.
 
Currently it's all stock. But the engine I am putting in has a fp3082 and manifold.

So, it's not a problem to change anything on it while the engine is out.
You might look into getting a different turbo. I talked to FP yesterday and they don't recommend doing a 3079 much less a 3082. Basically it's juts more lag without increased airflow because of the small turbine.
 
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