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1G Auto trans solenoids

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
11,531
8,199
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Hey all, after a burned out OD, I pulled the VB, cleaned EVERYTHING with brake parts cleaned and reassembled, now my solenoids don't change gears. I can hear them with the car off buzzing for a couple seconds when I change gears but I only have 3rd. Can anyone point to some diagnoses? I had all gears before, just disassembled for cleang and put all back together just as it came apart. Could I have ruind the solenoids by cleaning them with brake parts cleaner? Anyone have a set if 92 solenoids they would like to sell?
I'm stuck on this problem now.
Thanks all!!!!
 
Hey all, after a burned out OD, I pulled the VB, cleaned EVERYTHING with brake parts cleaned and reassembled, now my solenoids don't change gears. I can hear them with the car off buzzing for a couple seconds when I change gears but I only have 3rd. Can anyone point to some diagnoses? I had all gears before, just disassembled for cleang and put all back together just as it came apart. Could I have ruind the solenoids by cleaning them with brake parts cleaner? Anyone have a set if 92 solenoids they would like to sell?
I'm stuck on this problem now.
Thanks all!!!!
I have a set I believe
 
Cleaning them should not ruin them. I just cleaned mine so if it does im screwed also!

It says it in the manual to clean them in solution. One thing i do remember is the early solenoids have a filter issue and o ring issue if you dont seal it correctly. Are you 100% sure its not that which is part of the issue?
 
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Thanks guys! Appreciate the quick replys.
I cleaned the solenoids pretty good and sprayed up inside the mesh that is on them, lubed up the orings and they felt great AND were working before I drained it all and took the VB back apart, 1 pc at a time to clean out debris from the roasted OD clutch pack.
The solenoids slid in with a little snug but lubed fit as normal but I am open to ALL IDEA'S on this issue.
Thanks again fellows!
Marty
 
Just so we can all laugh about things, just as I rolled my draintainer away from the trans (with a pan in the top so I could examine the fluid), one of its dam wheels broke off, spilling ATF EVERYWHERE.....:banghead: ROFL

Beware of the Harbor Freight drain containers
What a day starting at 930....:beatentodeath:

Time for a steak dinner ( hope that goes well, or medium rare please for me) :thumb:

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I always clean the solenoids well when doing a shift kit on a valve body. Haven’t had any quit working yet. You sure the ground wire on the valve body is bolted on.
 
Brake parts cleaner won't hurt the solenoids. Double check the linkage now that you have the pan off. Drop the v.b and make sure the oring from v.b to case is in the correct position and that it's still there. Are you using the factory auto harness plugs and tcu/shift box? 2 plugs on top on the trans are the same but have different wires I messed this up a few years ago with same results. If you are using the factory harness check the at/tcu fuse under dash. Check for voltage at the solenoid plug and you can do a ohm test on them. Just some ideas for you to check out.
 
You have now dropped the tank and your warranty is now void, they have it on the internet that you admitted to it. The buzzing is your pressure control solenoid valve, if you touch the gas pedal it should stop. Your tcu is obviously not dead or the buzzing wouldn't be happening, did you mix the solenoids up?
 
Well its going back on the lift and I will pull the pan and VB again.
I have voltage going to the solenoids.
I have checked ground continuity to the case.
I can hear the solenoids buzz.
The o-ring was in place on the VB when I installed it.
When I initially burned out OD, the trans was sluggish in shifting into 2nd, sometimes it wouldnt and would just give me 3rd. I dropped the pan cleaned everything with brake parts cleaner as thorough as possible and reinstalled a new filter and fluid.
The trans worked different after that, giving me a slow 3rd gear engagement, like a pause.
I put the car back on the lift and took it back apart, this time removing the VB and disassembling it for cleaning, which it REALLY needed. I found alot of black debris and some sparkles. The trans has new Kiggly front 5 pak clutches and new IPT end clutches. I cranked up the pressure to just a half turn off the seat from 2 turns out, which is where I set it when I did the shift kit.
All check balls are in place and every passage and hole was cleaned. I torqued the VB back in at 95 inch lbs, and air tested the band apply which was fine. I DID get quite abit of debris out of the kickdown servo port and cleaned it until no debris came out and re-air tested it.
I plugged the connector back into the only plug that I unplugged and road tested to only have 3rd now. Back at the shop I hooked up the laptop and tested all functions of the Smartshift box then checked for 12 volts at the connector. Yes for all. I plugged the connector back into a spare VB I have from a 3000gt and it made the same sounds, just not dampened by fluid.
So here I am, disappointed, as I was sure things would get BETTER after a thorough cleaning but that isn't the case.
I GREATLY APPRECIATE all the suggestions and will try each one to triple check.
Are solenoids supposed to "buzz" or "click" or does anyone know?
That's where I am at now. Full nitrous kit ready if I can get the transmission to shift firm and on demand and was ready to go hit the track, now that seems like I may be waiting until next year. Just hoping that any one of you hits the nail on the head and I will post results in a day or so.
Weather is going to cool off Tuesday so the shop wont be 95* and I hope to have the VB out, disassembled again and reassembled, ready for a another test.
This really has me bamboozled guys.
Matt, I will check the solenoids but am 99% sure they are correct.
TeamFury, what is the OHM reading I am looking for at the solenoids, do you have that number?
Galant665, the ground wire is connected and continuity checked from battery to trans case, good there.
Thank you all and keep the ideas coming please!
Marty
 
Ok so here is the ending to the thread.
I took ALL of the valves out of the valve body and boy was that a job. You need a good set of small picks to get stuck valves out. I persevered and got each one to come out sn6d boy were they stuck. Debris from the burned up overdrive pak had made its way into everything. When I was done, all of the valves would fall into their bores with a nice "clunk" and were FREE.
I reassembled it all and I now have all 4 gears but there is still a lurking issue....delayed 3rd gear engagement. The TCU/Shiftbox is commanding 3rd but it delays engaging. It is solid when it does go in so I am thinking maybe the servo needs taken out and cleaned now and there was alot of ugly fluid in it that I cleaned out as I could. I checked band engagement while there and it was good. Tested all solenoids for ohms (21.4 for A & B and 35 for the Pressure solenoid). Amp draw was 1 amp for the A & B solenoids and 3 amps for the Pressure solenoid. (Take notes all :cool:)
I am happy and cleaning the complete valve body cured the no gears but drive issue, now just to go drive and see if things work out slowly or decide if I want to take the car apart to replace the 3rd gear pak. I REALLY feel it is a servo issue as 3rd is solid when it finally gets there.
Just had to end the thread with a conclusion but if ANYONE has an idea on the slow/delayed engagement, please chime in and thank you all!!!
Also got a new set of rims/tires to try, check em out. OMG :cool:
Pops
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Ok Auto guys and gals. I believe the servo is not RELEASING the band and is delaying the 2-3 shift BAD. I can shift 4-3 and sometimes it feels like something is in "a bind" so I am wondering if it is possible to take the kickdown servo out with the trans in the car to service it.
Any advice is appreciated!
Pops
 
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