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auto eclipse gst tranny fluid

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GST_RIC_99

10+ Year Contributor
211
1
May 9, 2010
Bakersfield, California
I wanted to do a fluid change on my car and I was wondering can I use SP III ? I read the owners manual it says SP II. The site that I found says Diamond ATF SP III automatic transmission fluid specially formulated for use in all Mitsubishi Auto Transmissions. Here's the link STM: MITSUBISHI AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID | DIAMOND ATF SP III | ACH1ZC1X05

I just want make sure before I buy it will this work ? it's a good price
 
SP II and III fluids are approved by Mitsu. You can also use Chrysler's ATF+4 fluids in that F4A33 tranny.

Drop the pan and do the filters along with remembering where the magnets are placed before putting the pan back on.
 
SP II and III fluids are approved by Mitsu. You can also use Chrysler's ATF+4 fluids in that F4A33 tranny.

Drop the pan and do the filters along with remembering where the magnets are placed before putting the pan back on.

thank you for the info and advice i appreciate it. This will be my 1st time doing this on my own i done a oil change myself but not a transmission fluid change haha

Would two quarts be enough ? I read on RRE site saying something about 2.1 quarts of fluid. Should i buy a third one just in case ?
 
Buy a few bottles just incase! I run royal purple max atf and its great fluid and is still going strong, when you do change the fluid pull the return pipe off the atf cooler and bleed most of the old fluid out by starting the can and putting it in gear for a few seconds! then refill it back up, that was almost all of it is new, when you replace the filter use an oem one and clean the pan of what ever you find from years of use!

This will be better if you have 2 people to do this job as it works alot better and is cleaner. Also remember gloves as its not good for you and the atf fluid can inhibit cancer, ( fair enough not in 1 touch but its best to play it safe) so safety is critical on this
 
Buy a few bottles just incase! I run royal purple max atf and its great fluid and is still going strong, when you do change the fluid pull the return pipe off the atf cooler and bleed most of the old fluid out by starting the can and putting it in gear for a few seconds! then refill it back up, that was almost all of it is new, when you replace the filter use an oem one and clean the pan of what ever you find from years of use!

This will be better if you have 2 people to do this job as it works alot better and is cleaner. Also remember gloves as its not good for you and the atf fluid can inhibit cancer, ( fair enough not in 1 touch but its best to play it safe) so safety is critical on this

ok thank you i was thinking about having a friend help to make it faster and ill be sure to wear gloves. I didn't know about that ! about the fluid's that's kind of scary ! yeah better play it safe. Maybe ill buy four bottles since you said a few & I have to find the oem filter need to search for one . I was gonna just gonna go to a auto parts store and get one
 
Sorry for beating a dead horse but I'm picking up my first auto gsx and I'm buying a shift kit and ipt converter. I will also be doing a filter even though I've been told the car is coming with a extra fresh rebuilt trans but before I install I'm upgrading so I might as well change the filter while I'm there. Is it safe you run the car with the drain plug out? Seems dangerous to me?
 
dsm_dad where is the drain plug located because I know the drain plug on a gst is on the side by the mud guard thingy
 
As someone who has been rebulding these tranmissions for years now, I wouldnt use anything but Atf+4 in them, no "race" fluid s or anything of the like have the proper friction modifiers in them for long life, will they allow the car to move? sure but you wont get the life out of the transmission that you should. Never run the tranmission without the drain plug, and never run the transmission with any of the lines pulled off, thats a terrible idea, you are starving the oil pump when you do that and running all of the bearings and the converter without oil pressure. Would you run your engine without the drain plug to get all of the oil out? how about with the oil lines removed? terrible idea, the damage done would be much greater than leaving a little bit of old fluid behind, besides that your transmission would need around 12 quarts on average to get all of the dirty fluid replaced anyway, which is why tranmsision fluid flush machines exist. Used tranmission fluid has no by products of combustion like used motor oil, getting it on your hands is MUCH less of a risk than used motor oil which contains lead and gasoline.
 
As someone who has been rebulding these tranmissions for years now, I wouldnt use anything but Atf+4 in them, no "race" fluid s or anything of the like have the proper friction modifiers in them for long life, will they allow the car to move? sure but you wont get the life out of the transmission that you should. Never run the tranmission without the drain plug, and never run the transmission with any of the lines pulled off, thats a terrible idea, you are starving the oil pump when you do that and running all of the bearings and the converter without oil pressure. Would you run your engine without the drain plug to get all of the oil out? how about with the oil lines removed? terrible idea, the damage done would be much greater than leaving a little bit of old fluid behind, besides that your transmission would need around 12 quarts on average to get all of the dirty fluid replaced anyway, which is why tranmsision fluid flush machines exist. Used tranmission fluid has no by products of combustion like used motor oil, getting it on your hands is MUCH less of a risk than used motor oil which contains lead and gasoline.


That's what i thought as well i would never run my shep without the plug in it, but as i said I'm new to these automagics, still seemed like very bad idea to run the car without the return line hooked up.
 
You only turning it for a few seconds like max 3 seconds so it pumps the rest out! Its not dangerous and there is more the enough fluid around to still lube the clutches and pump, its mainly to get the excess out the cooler and pipe, ive done this many times and its fine to do, im not saying sit there with it running for 5-10-15 mins just a few seconds or cranks to push the rest out!

Whether your a tech or not or been in the industry for years on end its perfectly safe to do so, maybe not in your collage manual or how you was told but the industry has been doing this for years without issue so why is it an issue now?
 
We'll think about it would you let your engines oil pump run dry for 3 seconds just to pump out that extra .3L of fluid ? Not worth it right ?

There's So many parts in an automatic that rely on the transmission fluid to be there to absorb heat and lube the clutches , bearings ,o rings ,oil pump ect..
If I brought my transmission to a shop and instead of them using a flushing machine they just pulled the cooler line off and started the engine I would never bring anything to get fixed there ever again.

I just let my transmission drain out by gravity.
I also drained the torque converter when I had it out because I could LOL
 
Ive heard of disconnecting the return line and feeding fluid while it's running until the fluid is proper color but running it like this still scares me as this is going to be my drag trans
 
The risk of damage is much to great for the small amount of "dirty" fluid that you are going to get out of the tranmission by running it like that, I have never seen any reputable shop run a transmission with any of the lines or plugs out for any reason, let alone to do "good" by getting dirty out, again do you run your engine without the oil filter to get every last drop of dirty oil out of it? You would be introducing air into the hydraulic systems of the transmission which causes cavitation throughout the transmission, this lasts longer than a few seconds as you suggest.

If you are that worried about getting all of the fluid out then go get a flush or get a hand pump fluid evacuator and suck out 3 quarts at a time from the dipstick tube like I do , if you do that four times in a row over the period of a couple of weeks or months you will have all clean fluid after you are done and you get the added benefit of always having some fresh fluid in the transmission with fresh additive packages.
 
I wanted to do a fluid change on my car and I was wondering can I use SP III ? I read the owners manual it says SP II. The site that I found says Diamond ATF SP III automatic transmission fluid specially formulated for use in all Mitsubishi Auto Transmissions. Here's the link STM: MITSUBISHI AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID | DIAMOND ATF SP III | ACH1ZC1X05

I just want make sure before I buy it will this work ? it's a good price


Hey bro were do you add the oil because there no dip stick
 
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