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attempting to make adjustable arms for a 2g

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EC17PSE

Freelancer
5,891
3,483
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
So I was talking to my boss about racing more next year and we got to the convo of adjustable arms! now he used to rally years ago so he knows a thing or two about suspension and racing and setups.

question is where would the adjusting section go? I was assuming as its got more room is between the suspension folk arm to the inner chassis joint but that would move the suspension when you adjust it.

now im not just looking to adjust the front LCA but the pivot arm for toe aswell as that seems pretty easy to make.

all will be out of steel and tig or mig welded as thats what I do with the MG and stratos suspension parts at work and they hold up fine! so any info or what would be the best place would be great for help to possibly make them better then the stock stuff
 
something that would be very useful for the 2g guys would be a way to adjust the front compression arms so as to adjust caster. You could also make a tubular front uca and have an integrated ball joint with a lot of adjustment. The only question would be strength, if anything under the car fails it would be catastrophic.
 
the front upper was on my list of items to make, strength is not an issue as we been making arms fore many years without failure and there most likely more raced then ours and they were originally designed to take the loads of full rallying so pretty strong!

just to show these are the MG B race type arms we make and are steel and mig welded and although are not anything like fia approved they hold up pretty well to punishment and abuse

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Im trying to look for replaceable ball joints but not finding many place that make good units or even aftermarket units so I thought about going the rose joint route! as I found a corvette site doing the same thing and seemed to work pretty well for them
 
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if you used something like this kind oa set up where you could bolt it into the top of the knuckle and that would allow for a whole shit load of adjustment, and if some one where to figure out a way to adjust caster that would also work perfect. then you could machine solid bushings for the original caber adjustment points. that would be one very good spiffy unit.
 
Would having an adjustment on the upper arm be of any use? I was looking as the 3g tubular ones and thought 2 adjusters on the inner section that connects to the chassis might help aswell and they look pretty easy to modify.

My real tough issue is the lower arms. And as for the caster ive never tried to adjust that so I would not know that first thing to do on this
 
My suggestion would be to select a non-discontinued, available, adjustable balljoint from SPC and design the arms around those. We're talking about a slotted plate with 2 tubes welded to it, nothing wild.

I would do some research into which joints offer caster and camber adjustment and then contact SPC to get exact dimensions and, finally, the joints themselves. The folks over at SPC are very helpful and from my experience, are more than happy to dig around though boxes of balljoints to find exactly what you need.

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Adjustment on the upper arm is really the only place I could imagine wanting it.
 
well i thought about having the adjustment on the 2 fixing points of the upper arm rather then on 1 joint to the upper part of the knuckle.

ive looked at a few from skunk2 and some others but there joints to there knuckle are with a press in ball joint where as ours are just a bush which i would like to keep if i can and possibly add a little something in there but not sure if thats a good idea or not as even with extra backing its a pretty weak area

this one i was thinking of removing the chassis connectiong points for adjustable rods and call it a day as it seems the better place on this to do something like this,

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this is skunk2 joints and as you can see i dont think i could make anything to match our setup very well

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well the one you are talking about a fixed joint would be for the rear the one that we need would be a front one, the rear ones would be super easy. never mind about the caster i think i was getting ahead of my self.
 
well the one you are talking about a fixed joint would be for the rear the one that we need would be a front one, the rear ones would be super easy. never mind about the caster i think i was getting ahead of my self.

Am I getting this all wrong haha I thought it was the front thats fixed, I think I need to look over the suspension again then take some notes. This is a project for next year so I got plenty of time
 
the front is a ball joint to the knuckle and the rear is a fixed mount
 
the front is a ball joint to the knuckle and the rear is a fixed mount

Yeah i found that now haha, think i will look it over and do some drawings over christmas as the car will be up on stands over christmas for my exhaust build so will get a basic idea of what i could do with it
 
right need a little info on some names and input please

what are these called as i cannot find a name or search due to not knowing it!

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for the ball joints I thought of replacing them with this conversion kit for rose joints instead but not able to find any where that sells them so i might have to make them from scratch!
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another option is these from buddy club! there racing ball joints but are non serviceable and if they do beak are expensive for a replacement!
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Lastly!!! where should I add the place to adjust on the LCA's? I want to avoid moving the forks if possible so the rose ball joint conversion would be great up there as its after the suspension forks but wont be enough rod to make a difference unless i pre make them a few degrees out to begin with!

OR I can make it to sit on the inner bush and then its alot easier to make BUT when you adjust it the fork moves with it and im not sure thats a good idea or not!
 
Right so this has taken me a while to get this started but im pretty close to thinking i've got a good idea as to how to build them, I will give a list of what my plans are to use here and if anyone wants to comment please do!

from the inner pick up points out as i list them! everything is XMR race series bearings for strength and quality! and any bolts I will be replacing with 12.9 socket capped bolts with Nyloc flanged nuts.

for the rod ends i plan to use M12 x 1.25 fine thread XMR race series with misalignment spacers. these are to allow the 12mm bolt to go straight through them and through to the engine bay with a flanged bolt up top! in the middle will be a tapered shaft like the OEM and I am considering an extra spacer that's also hight adjustable as well, (still unsure as to if altering height will be of any use or not yet)
threaded bosses for the above rod ends

25mm OD 21mm ID so 2mm walled CDS tube mandrel bent to curve around the springs and OEM sized springs. as I don't current have coilovers yet. just Koni shocks and apex springs.

Then I planned to use a 3/4" spherical housed bearing (COM12) again race series for strength and life due to shocks and loads on it and there replaceable! (own misalignment spacers will be made and to taper to a 5/8" hole for the tapered shaft!

the shaft is a bump steer shaft from allstar performance its the correct unit that works with all our top holes on the knuckles,toe,steering, but not the lower holes on the LCA!

I've got to make a jig up and make sure im happy they are going to be spaced correctly, I am wondering if instead of raising it up as much as the OEM arms raise I could keep them a little straighter and try to make it maybe higher in the pick up points (inner wing) any ideas on this would be great.

I am hoping to try get everything done by the end on march but as im going to Florida in April/May moneys are getting tight so might be after but that gives me plenty of time to keep thinking of it and try to get it right the first time!

any help would be great and ideas as to another idea I would gladly listen to!


some pics are attached to the specific items im going to be ordering when I can.
 

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Sorry I am of no assistance, but intriguing work.
 
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