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DSMReviver said:
Thats is nice bro. what's the next step? How is your leg/knee?
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Thanks AL... my knee is getting better I think. I got a doctors appointment today at 2:45 with orthopedic Arkansas.Going to find out if their going to have to cut it off (j/k). I don't know what my next step is. James is really wanting me to buy his car and he found me a good deal on an awd trans and transfer case but then I'll still need the rear diff and a new exhaust setup before I would be able to use it. Well actually all I'll need is a down pipe but that's getting real close to my 2k budget. Just for his shell, the awd trans, and transfer case that puts me at 1300. Then maybe an extra 300 for a rear diff 1600. If i do the auto to manual swap the only parts I'll need is the braided clutch line, whatever mounts I'll need for the trans, a new clutch,down pipe, and I would like to get another flywheel like I had. That puts me well over the 2k mark..... Idk what I'm going to do. I did almost have the guy here in searcy talked into selling me his awd talon and it comes complete with an engine and trans for 1000 but he is tore between selling and keeping. One minute I'll have him agreeing to sell and the next he wants to keep it.............
 
No the car running fine...what I'm not getting that the rods aren't bent and the crank not egg shape, why the bleep it keeps spinning bearing on the same cylinder?
 
DSML7dropkick said:
Thanks AL... my knee is getting better I think. I got a doctors appointment today at 2:45 with orthopedic Arkansas.Going to find out if their going to have to cut it off (j/k). I don't know what my next step is. James is really wanting me to buy his car and he found me a good deal on an awd trans and transfer case but then I'll still need the rear diff and a new exhaust setup before I would be able to use it. Well actually all I'll need is a down pipe but that's getting real close to my 2k budget. Just for his shell, the awd trans, and transfer case that puts me at 1300. Then maybe an extra 300 for a rear diff 1600. If i do the auto to manual swap the only parts I'll need is the braided clutch line, whatever mounts I'll need for the trans, a new clutch,down pipe, and I would like to get another flywheel like I had. That puts me well over the 2k mark..... Idk what I'm going to do. I did almost have the guy here in searcy talked into selling me his awd talon and it comes complete with an engine and trans for 1000 but he is tore between selling and keeping. One minute I'll have him agreeing to sell and the next he wants to keep it.............
Click to expand...

Id walk up to him with cash in hand and say here you go. Money trends to change the mind of folks.
 
V8Killer25 said:
No the car running fine...what I'm not getting that the rods aren't bent and the crank not egg shape, why the bleep it keeps spinning bearing on the same cylinder?
Click to expand...

Don't give up just yet. Ask it on the open forums. Maybe get a second opinion. (Alex why are you not a wiseman yet?) ;)
 
DSMBanditFZ6 said:
Don't give up just yet. Ask it on the open forums. Maybe get a second opinion. (Alex why are you not a wiseman yet?) ;)
Click to expand...

:p I have a lot to learn. I know a lot about a little. To be considered a Wiseman, you have to know a lot about a lot - and there's a lot that I still haven't put my hands on.

boosteclipse said:
Is your oil port clogged, not allowing adequate oil pressure to the bearing. Have you mic'd that journal to make sure it's in spec for the bearing that's being used?
Click to expand...

^ Aye. I'm willing to bet on an oiling issue or a groove in the journal from the first spun bearing. If it's a small groove that's not too bad, you can use a leather boot lace, emery paper, or high grit sandpaper (2000ish) coated in oil and go around the journal lightly. If there is a mild to bad groove/notch/scar then the crank will need to be removed and taken to a machine shop.

Could also be installing the bearings wrong by mistake.
 
XiKeiyaZI said:
:p I have a lot to learn. I know a lot about a little. To be considered a Wiseman, you have to know a lot about a lot - and there's a lot that I still haven't put my hands on.



^ Aye. I'm willing to bet on an oiling issue or a groove in the journal from the first spun bearing. If it's a small groove that's not too bad, you can use a leather boot lace, emery paper, or high grit sandpaper (2000ish) coated in oil and go around the journal lightly. If there is a mild to bad groove/notch/scar then the crank will need to be removed and taken to a machine shop.

Could also be installing the bearings wrong by mistake.
Click to expand...


what about not torquing the caps down tight enough?
 
V8Killer25 said:
what about not torquing the caps down tight enough?
Click to expand...

That can do it. Be sure you're not greasing the back of the bearing. Ensure the notches are set right. Ensure the journal is in good condition. Etc.

What spec are you torquing the caps to?

greanbeans said:
Loose caps could do it too. What kind of torque wrench you using to torque them with
Click to expand...

Also a very good question.
 
well i have been tryna to find that out the book say 18ft lbs but colby and a few other people told me 38 ftlbs
 
DSML7dropkick said:
Thanks AL... my knee is getting better I think. I got a doctors appointment today at 2:45 with orthopedic Arkansas.Going to find out if their going to have to cut it off (j/k). I don't know what my next step is. James is really wanting me to buy his car and he found me a good deal on an awd trans and transfer case but then I'll still need the rear diff and a new exhaust setup before I would be able to use it. Well actually all I'll need is a down pipe but that's getting real close to my 2k budget. Just for his shell, the awd trans, and transfer case that puts me at 1300. Then maybe an extra 300 for a rear diff 1600. If i do the auto to manual swap the only parts I'll need is the braided clutch line, whatever mounts I'll need for the trans, a new clutch,down pipe, and I would like to get another flywheel like I had. That puts me well over the 2k mark..... Idk what I'm going to do. I did almost have the guy here in searcy talked into selling me his awd talon and it comes complete with an engine and trans for 1000 but he is tore between selling and keeping. One minute I'll have him agreeing to sell and the next he wants to keep it.............
Click to expand...

Is James auto? i keep thinking manual but anyways is his shell complete with trans, transfer case, and rear end? Auto's are very popular now days and the trans can handle alot of power unlike manuals. But, you can't beat the fun of shifting. Man for only 1000, if you get it that will be a steal. Maybe alittle extra cash will convince him. If that searcy car has complete engine and trans and body is excellent i wouldn't mind dropping 1300 on it and even that thats still a steal.

V8Killer25 said:
well i have been tryna to find that out the book say 18ft lbs but colby and a few other people told me 38 ftlbs
Click to expand...

Brandon looks like you might have it too loose or the baring is too large and it started walking. Did you measure the clearance with plastigauge before you put the barings in? Its crucial for the clearance to be right or you will end up with more problems. If i were you i would pull the motor out again, reinspect the crank, reinspect the crank main bores, put the bearings in, platiguage every one of them, and re torque the whole bottem end. Without knowing what kind of crank you got or the conditions those mains are in you are taking a gamble. I know you don't have that options right now because you need the car running asap but its crutial if you don't set your crank right the first time.

At this point i hope re torquing the cap will solve the problem.
 
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V8Killer25 said:
well i have been tryna to find that out the book say 18ft lbs but colby and a few other people told me 38 ftlbs
Click to expand...

The Book is wrong in a few instances. 18ft/lbs is just NOT enough. Grease the journal/bearing. Make sure the bearing surface that snaps into the rod is completely dry, clean, and free of debris. Torque in steps. Torque to say, 15lbs, and then to the full 38ft/lbs that way you help promote an even clamp load.

If you've been torquing them to 18ft/lbs then there's the problem. ;) Don't forget to check for scaring on the crank journal.
 
Hey got a question? Anybody have a valve cover I can buy ASAP? I really need one this one is no good/cracked.
 
I would double, no triple check the crank and oil ports. It certainly could be the problem, and like I said only torquing 18lbs simply is just ridiculous. I'll be off at 6 and can come do it/lend a hand for you. I have a mic also. Anyone want to go to centerville Saturday by the way?
 
If things were organized on Sunday or Saturday afternoon I could finally make it to one of these get
togethers. :|
 
We got a lil huney hole junk yard up here. 4 1gs. All non turbo and 1 1.8l LOL.

V8Killer25 said:
Well let me know if someone has a valve cover!
Click to expand...

If you still havnt found one by saturday. Il go out and pull one for you, you may have to meet luke to grab it monday. Really not sure which side.of LR you live on though. The red lettering is still good on it also. If memory serves me correctly.
 
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cabot2g said:
Will have to see what we have going on. What time does it go on.

By the way, for us fwd guys, Jacksonville high school has a dyno. Haven't got a price for it yet but glad I have a dyno less than 5 miles from the house.
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5-11 I believe it is, if not later. But that's awesome, sucks there's no AWD one too close, but it's no big deal. Rather have track numbers anywho.
 
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