Are cams worth it with 68hta?

[Thecarfixerguy]

I finally have my engine assembled and ready to install, but I’m second guessing my decision to run stock cams. It’s a street build so I don’t want horrible idle, but I was looking at GSC S1 or BC 268/272 on stock springs. Is it worth the cost and effort? Are the springs going to cause me problems under 7k RPM? I was hoping to get close to 400HP. Opinions welcome. I will be using FP6851S(68HTA v3) turbo.

Also, if I’m going there should I get adjustable cam gears to go with them? I’m totally new to tuning and still learning as I go here.

 

[Canadian_CD9A]

There's definitely some good power to be gained without giving much up. GSC S1, Kelford 264 or 268 or Jun 264 all good choices for that power range, but I'd suggest you do springs. A set of BC or Manley springs for stock retainers isn't even $100. Cam gears aren't strictly necessary, but certainly optimize the setup by being able to centerline the cams, and dial in for any gains as needed.

 

[Thecarfixerguy]

, but I'd suggest you do springs.

I was trying to avoid pulling the head back off. Are there good setups for swapping springs out without unbolting the head?

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

With my bc 272’s on a 16g the stock springs didn’t give me any issue as I had no reason to rev over 7k, once I started playing with bigger turbos the valve float became apparent when I was trying to rev it out to 8k. Even going back to a small turbo I opted to go with some evo 8 springs and retainers for cheap reassurance, like mentioned above you can’t go wrong as cheap as it is to upgrade springs, I’m just a cheapskate and went with the 50 dollar option.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yes they can be installed with the head on using a valve compression tool. No need to pull the head off.

 

[ist dwa]

Run GSC2s and don't look back!

 

[99dsmer4g63]

I was trying to avoid pulling the head back off. Are there good setups for swapping springs out without unbolting the head?

Can’t say I have ever done it to swap springs but I have done this to change valve seals before which requires spring removal anyways. Just make sure the cylinder you are working on is at TDC. I set TDC and would 1 and 4 then rotate 180 degrees and do 2 and 3.

To do this you need to remove the timing belt first. Biggest thing I can say is be VERY careful while working above the head. You can drop things down the head ports and end up in the bottom end if it falls in the right area.

FWIW I run BC 272’s with BC single valve springs and BC retainers. I also run a Kiggly HLA regulator and GSC 3g revised lifters. I also have BC adjustable cam gears but used them just to degree the cam. No manually advance or retard on either cam, don’t plan on moving them either atleast for now. I made 420 wheel on a mustang dyno. I was having boost control issues and so timing was pulled and only revved to about 6k. I since fixed my issue but now have decided to switch to E85 before going back to get her finished.

-Daniel

 

[Steve93Talon]

S1s are perfect for that setup, and work fine with stock springs.

 

[donniekak]

There's definitely some good power to be gained without giving much up. GSC S1, Kelford 264 or 268 or Jun 264 all good choices for that power range, but I'd suggest you do springs. A set of BC or Manley springs for stock retainers isn't even $100. Cam gears aren't strictly necessary, but certainly optimize the setup by being able to centerline the cams, and dial in for any gains as needed.

I’ve run a lot of setups and for smaller upgraded turbos the kelford 264’s were just so much better in the range those turbos like. They had the driveability of a comp 272, but made way better power as rpms and boost go up.

 

[92Turbski]

I’ve run a lot of setups and for smaller upgraded turbos the kelford 264’s were just so much better in the range those turbos like. They had the driveability of a comp 272, but made way better power as rpms and boost go up.

Hey, Donnie. Are you talking about the 264/268 combo or do they make a 264/264.
I'm going to be running a stock bottom end, E3 head with beehives (mitsu composite head gasket and studs) E3 big 16g, E3 intake, E3 exhaust manifold with a Megan 3" O2 housing back. I'll be plumbing in a content sensor for an eventual tune on e85, too.
Which cam would you recommend for the nastiest/brutal mid range flat torque curve with slightly more over rev (7k or so)?

Thanks in advance for your time!


Rob

 

[donniekak]

They were the 1-tx264.


I ran them on a 30r, but I can still see them edging out my old favorite for td05 turbos, the comp 101200’s.