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Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

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Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
8,053
3,071
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.
 
Depends on your compression and tuning and if you are running a stroker motor. On my stock motor it comes alive completely by 5000 but I'm running a very large intercooler and it takes some time to fill it. It seems to come on quicker with the more boost that I run.
 
the easiest path to greatness is to stand on the shoulders of giants, eerr or somthin like that,
choose a proven turbo, so many others have already done most of the homework for you.
take a look at the bragging rights/quarter mile times and you see a lot of the same turbos,
FP3052
FP3065
GT35r
FULL GARRETT (i have no idea what that means) does anyone know? custom???

the FULL GARRETT seems to be leading the way, but I have no idea what turbo this is.

James Sanders
 
the easiest path to greatness is to stand on the shoulders of giants, eerr or somthin like that,
choose a proven turbo, so many others have already done most of the homework for you.
take a look at the bragging rights/quarter mile times and you see a lot of the same turbos,
FP3052
FP3065
GT35r
FULL GARRETT (i have no idea what that means) does anyone know? custom???

the FULL GARRETT seems to be leading the way, but I have no idea what turbo this is.

James Sanders

Great advice, follow the herd. If you don't know what "full Garrett" means, you should be restricted to the noob section. :rolleyes:
 
Im guessing a FULL GARRET means that its not a hybrid of any sort. Dont quote me on that, but thats just my guess LOL.

35R or any of the turbos mentioned above should get you where you wanna go.
 
"Full Garrett" means there is no parts used from any other company. Forced Performance uses Garrett components on their turbos but uses their own exhaust housing to make it a bolt on. PTE and other companies do the same type of thing. They might not use the actual Garrett parts in some cases but the design is the same or similar enough. It also means that you are using the rectangular inlet flange on the turbine instead of the circular Mitsu style.
 
The other day I was trying to take off my turbo to see if I could find the reason that I am shooting oil out of my exhaust. My exhaust looks blackish blue and my father said that it was oil in my exhaust, and there is a lot of it. Well as I was unbolting the turbo from the manifold, two of the bolts snapped. So I took off the manifold and tried extracting the bolts, but nothing worked, I used two different types of extractors, and one was a about 1/4" out of the hole so I tried using vise grips on that one. Well nothing worked, I had my stepdad out there for an hour trying anything we could, but we were unsuccessful. So now I am looking into a new turbo, I wanted to upgrade anyway, so I figured now would be a great time. I am between a Big 16g or a t3/t4. I am in a financial slump right now, and do not have too much money, so this has to be factored into my choice.

Big 16g - I know the 16g is a direct bolt-on, but if I use this turbo, I want to get an evoIII mani or a ported 2g mani, and a bigger O2 housing.

T3/T4 - This system would require me to get a new manifold, O2 housing, and possibly an external wastegate.

I know that the 16g has a lot of potential, but my brother had a t3/t4 on his old '90 GST, and that car stuck me to my seat at around 3K. Well If anyone can help me, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

* I am looking to upgrade cams soon, along with a blow-thru MAF-T setup.

-Mike N.-
'91GSX:dsm:
 
If anyone could give me some advice on what turbo would be a better streetable turbo, it would be very helpful. Perhaps tell me a little about each turbo (preferably if you have had experience), because I do not know too much about different tubos. Any advice or information would be appreciated.

-Mike N.-
'91 GSX:dsm:
 
t3/t4 is just telling what flange the turbo is using. I'm getting a scm5031e "50trim" they come in mitsu housing or you can get them with a t3. Just get a nice sized mitsu bolt on turbo. If you don't have alot of money get a 16g and have to get a turbo get 16g if you got a little extra to spare contact maperformance about a 50 trim. Its a good pump gas turbo and you can get one to bolt on to your stock manifold. I can't wait for mine to come in.
 
I have the Evo3 16g and I love it. Its a fast spooling turbo (full boost around 3k) And it can certainly throw you into the back of the seat with the boost high enough. I have mine set at 12 pounds because I don't have all my fuel upgrades in yet, but I had it at 20 psi one day at WOT and it was more than hard to get off the seat. I really like the evo3 turbo it has been nothing but good to me. Sorry I really don't know much about the T3/4 turbo or I could share some insight. I know plenty people with 50trims and I have been thinking about upgrading up to scm5031e, but I really like not having much lag from the 16g of course when the 50 trim spools all the thoughts about lag dissapear. I would say go with the 16g if your coming off a stock turbo. Good luck.
 
As was said T3/T4 refers to the turbine housing & says nothing about the size of the turbo. There are many companies out there that make hybrid turbo's, such as the PTE5031 mentioned above. They take a centersection & compressor cover from say Garrett & bolt up one of their custom cast turbine housings that allow the turbo to bolt up just like stock. Going big now, so if you have "going big" plans in the future is a good idea but the problem is according to your profile you have very limited supporting mods. Problem with this is until you can purchase all the add ons you will have to run extremely low boost, not seeing the benefit of the larger turbo but will also be adding alot of lag.

I think with your limited mods & limted funds a 16g series of turbo would be your best bet. Personally I'd vote for the evoIII. This will greatly outpower your 14b once you have the proper supporting mods to tune that boost up but will still work as a great bolt on in the mean time. With the proper supporting mods you shouldn't have too much trouble laying down 300-350 whp with this turbo.

Just as a sample of what the little evoIII can do, a local guy with the proper supporting mods on his 1g just ran an 11.7 @ 117mph on pump gas with meth injection & this was still on stock cams. First time I went to the track last year when I was still running the evoIII I was trapping at over 106 mph & that was on a poor tune on pump gas with about 17-18 psi.
 
I second (or third, or fourth, or whatever) the suggestion of the EVOIII-16g for your needs. The unmodified MHI turbos tend to be significantly more durable than their custom built Garrett counterparts too - very few people end up having one fail prematurely.

As far as the EVO manifold and bigger O2 housing goes, so long as the ones you have aren't cracked or leaking, you could do much better to spend your money elsewhere - be it on a fuel pump, injectors, or even better, add the money you'd have spent on those to what you'd spend on the MAFT and get DSMLINK, which is *far* superior.

You won't outgrow DSMlink for a very long time, if ever, and virtually nobody regrets going the way of the 'link once they've had a chance to use it.

There's no doubt that in a maximum effort car, a slightly less restrictive exhaust manifold and O2 housing will show some gains, but there are much better ways to spend your cash at your stage in the game, particularly since you're on a tight budget.

I'd leave the manifold alone, and if you have the time, give the O2 housing a nice port job yourself. There are plenty of pictures, guides, threads, and VFAQs out there to help you through the porting process - it's not particularly difficult, although it does take a bit of time.
 
Alright, it seems like most people would rather run a 16g over a hybrid, so I think that that is what I will do. Do you guys think it would be okay to buy a used one, or would it be better to go right to a brand new one? And I know that it has been discussed many times throughout this forum, but how about the 16g's off ebay. I found some that have warranties on them for up to a year, and they are about three hundred brand new. I have heard that they are okay, aside from the lines that come with them, I was just wondering if anyone has had personal experience with them. Thanks for all the advice/opinions, and for giving me a little more insight on what to look for. Keep the advice coming, it is all greatly appreciated.:thumb:

-Mike N.-
'91 GSX:dsm:
 
my opinion is go new and with the Evo3 16G. Im at 12.5 on a decent tune and stock cams with mine. Very fun and i own most of the Evo's around here.our cars are picky enough and at about 550$ brand new, thats a good price. Never short change yourself especially when it comes to the turbo and engine. good luck and let us know what your do!
 
There are 16G's from the vendors for under $500 from time to time.

I wouldn't reccomend the ebay ones as anything but experimental (and as such, unreliable). I have no personal experience, but the MHI are proven to last a long time and make power, the only thing I can say about ebay 16g's is that they have not yet been proven to be good or bad. Some like them, some don't, some break, still others don't. Why roll the drice when you can spend an extra $100-$200 and get something that is known to be good?!

Also, if you can find a local used one from a reputable person on the board or another DSM community, buy it! Often people score deals on turbos they want, and really don't need the others laying around, even if they are brand new. Used turbos can often be good runners. I got a garret for a turbododge that had 150k on it, used it *hard* for a year, sold it, and it's been running for the guy I sold it to for a year and a half now, still it still embarasses honda's when it spools up in his minivan :D

The others are giving you really good advice about the manifolds. If you want a new manifold because you think you've screwed yours up, look into a 2g, maybe score one at a junkyard or off ebay. They are $5 if you can find them in my junkyard, and a car with one recently ran 9's in the 1/4 mile : O

+1 for DSMlink.

Did you use penetrating oil on the bolts? Heat? A cool trick is to grind down part of the round section flat and put an open end wrench on it. Also, it seems to me that impact is what breaks stuck peices free, it's also been my experience that steady force leads to twisted off bolt heads.
 
Definitely EvoIII...WIth supporting mods and 20lbs of boost (stock cams) I was trapping 110-112mph consistently...

Sad how bad I seem to stick to the stereotype and the trend, but on my new Talon I ditched the EvoIII for a PTE SCM5031e...
 
Well I sat down and was about to purchase a turbo off of ebay, a used 16g, when my friend came over, and we got talking about my car, and we went outside to look at it. A few hours later, I have the turbo out, and get the turbine housing replaced with and extra one that I have off of my other 14b. As I was putting it together, I cleaned the oil out of the compressor housing, and five minutes later, I noticed that there was oil in it again. So as I sat and watched, I saw that I was leaking out of where the housing meets the CHRA. So now I am bringing my other turbo to a diesel peformance shop, to have it rebalanced, so that I can use that, and hopefully stop spewing oil into my intercooler, and the rest of my engine (which I found about half a cup of oil in my intercooler). Well long story short, I did not buy a new turbo, I finally got everything apart, and replaced what I needed. I think that I am going to wait until I have the money to buy a good turbo, and make sure that I have what ever supporting mods I will need. I think that I will go with a t3/t4 as my next turbo, now I just need to look around and figure out a good size. I want it to suck me back to my seat, without too much lag, but of course I will be expecting a descent amount. Anyway, thank you for all of your input, and if anyone has any advice about a good t3/t4 to look for, let me know. Sorry for such a long post.

-Mike N.-
'91 GSX:dsm:
 
definately NOT an evo3 16G:p . Not enough flow for me;) .

But you havn't given us your HP goal. . .

My SMALL 16G stuck me to the seat. Was the "funnest" little turbo I've ever used.

Sucking you back in your seat can be done by rebuilding your 14B. I've seen guys pull 18 psi out of them and make a fun car w/ a stock longblock.

A t3/t4 comes in so many flavors. But a 50trim seams to be a good balance of spool vs. flow. I've never installed one on one of my DSMs, but have for one of my other 4-cylinders. And seams to respond well to pump gas. So daily driving is not a pain.
 
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So I blew my entire Tax refund on a new Magnus intake, a BBK 62mm TB, and an awesome Wilwood track brake kit. I re-routed my battery to the trunk, installed the intake, TB and brake kit, and switched my intercooler piping to short route. Sure enough, the day after I get the car back together and take it out for a spirited drive with all my new parts and.... BAM! I blow off an intercooler coupler and kill it. So I get out and tighten the T bolt clamp below the j bend of the turbo. I start her up again and notice a loud exhaust leak. As it turns out, the bolts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold had somehow worked themselves loose enough to separate the hotside from the manifold a little bit and made my 4 banger sound like an old Ford tractor. As I walked back around to get back in the car I noticed a lot of smoke billowing out of the exhaust. I immediately assumed the worst and thought my valve stem seals must be leaking or maybe my rings were shot. Then, while contemplating harikari, and thinking about the thousands I just spent building my new 4g64 engine that I thought I had taken every precaution to make bulletproof, It dawned on me. My crappy PTE turbo must have died! Sure enough, I pulled off the intake pipe and noticed oil and some shaft play...:mad: . Dammitt! I have heard that some PTE turbo's may have reliability issues. But cmon. I only put 9k miles on this thing and it's already dead. :notgood: Anyway, short story long, I've already put enough money into this car that I can't quit now. If I'm going to have to buy a new turbo I want to go all out and get something reliable that will make all the power I could ever want so that I hopefully won't have to upgrade again anytime in the near future. I'm considering ditching the ported 2g mani for a nice even length tubular manifold. I really need some advice on which turbo to buy though. I've narrowed it down to a few candidates: The FP3575 is supposed to be very responsive and capable of 700whp, but I could probably get a GT3065 for the same price, and have less lag but sacrifice some power. The car will be a street/strip car that I will drive regularly. I would like to keep the car fairly streetable. I don't mind a little lag (the SCM61 had journal bearings and was internally gated), but I would prefer the car to be responsive enough that it's still fun to drive, but at the same time I would love to be able to make upwards of 600whp. I know it's hard to have your cake and eat it too with a 4 cylinder car, but I would really appreciate some input on this decision if any of you happen to have had real world experience with two or more of these turbos.
 
Those 2 turbos are not comparable. One curently powers all kinds of cars to 8s and 7s and one is a mid to low 10 sec turbo. For a street car, definitely get a 3575. A 42r wont spool til 6-7k even with a 2.4.
 
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