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2G Another TPS issue

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alexr254

Proven Member
294
105
Jun 18, 2021
Palm Coast, Florida
I was working on tuning my 2G Spyder 4g64 hybrid with ECMLink.
I was getting fine readings from the TPS, then all the sudden the error comes up that there is no communication with the TPS. And yep throttle stays at 0 now, no matter if I floor it or not.

It is a brand new TPS.

I recently swapped in a 1g Throttle Body.
Do I need a 1g TPS as well? Or will the one used on the 2g throttle body work fine?
 
To answer your question yeah it’s fine to use a 2G TPS. 2G TPS just has the idle switch and TPS in one. You already have that plug and wiring so use that one.
 
I'd be looking at your wiring to the TPS, including right near the connector. It's a common for stranded wires to snap after so many years and heat cycles. You may have to resolder the connector on after cleaning up the wires of any corrosion, or re-pinning them altogether.
 
I've been so busy with other stuff i haven't even had a chance to look into this yet.
And i am so close to finishing the main part of this project :(

I'd be looking at your wiring to the TPS, including right near the connector. It's a common for stranded wires to snap after so many years and heat cycles. You may have to resolder the connector on after cleaning up the wires of any corrosion, or re-pinning them altogether.
Probably a dumb question..
I was reading some posts on how to calibrate the TPS. They use a feeler and a volt meter.
Is this something that still needs to be done in this way with a ecmlinked ecu?
 
I appreciate your help, truly. But telling people to use search is equivalent to lmgtfy. Or in other words calling people lazy, or worse - dumb.

I have seen that video and i have searched.
My question was specifically if, even with ecmlink, the TPS adjustment should be done manually.

I know how to do it both ways. What i don't know is if it makes any difference.
 
I appreciate your help, truly. But telling people to use search is equivalent to lmgtfy. Or in other words calling people lazy, or worse - dumb.

I have seen that video and i have searched.
My question was specifically if, even with ecmlink, the TPS adjustment should be done manually.

I know how to do it both ways. What i don't know is if it makes any difference.
It depends.... is your throttle plate/stop correctly set? if the plate opens fully when you floor it, and closes when you let it go you should be okay to set the voltage by logging the value (engine off) in ecmlink and adjusting the TPS (loosening the bolts and turning it to hit the value).
IF you have any doubts that your throttle plate isn't opening or closing properly, then adjusting the TPS isn't the proper approach. As you probably already know, there's a hacky workaround calculation/TPS adjust tool in ecmlink, that people normally use to improperly adjust a stock TPS. I don't know if you're simulating your idle switch or not, but a simulated idle switch relies on a properly calibrated TPS to determine when it's idling.
 
My question was specifically if, even with ecmlink, the TPS adjustment should be done manually.

It doesn't depend, while you can hack around it with ECMLink since it have support for TPS's that don't have an IPS, you really should adjust them properly if you have an OEM TPS.

If you're using a 1G TB make sure it still have an IPS since that is the equivalent of the 2G stop screw in addition to being the IPS (on the 1G). The factory adjustment of the IPS/stop screw is pretty important to the TB airflow at idle. If it's never been touched it's best to leave it alone.
 
But telling people to use search is equivalent to lmgtfy. Or in other words calling people lazy, or worse - dumb.
That's such a stretch, for reasons that I can only assume are sensationalist, thinking that "you can search for this" is akin to calling them dumb. But.. lazy? People on the internet?
Nobody here thinks you're dumb, but you need to relax a bit. If you can't handle somebody saying "you can search for that quite easily but here's a link". In fact, I didn't just give you some link from my bookmarks, I looked for it, vetted the one you should probably use, and added it. I spent a part of my own life span doing that. That's part of the appreciation we have for each other here. Otherwise we could just say "go search" and leave it at that. You're not new here, you've been around a bit, and we're all grateful you are here!

And yet, you preface the question with

Probably a dumb question..

So which way were we supposed to hop for that one? :)


"Calibrating" an OEM TPS is nothing more than ensuring you're reading a steady state voltage at cold and hot idle with the butterfly closed, adjusting your idle position switch (IPS) to ensure it does close fully, and testing the voltage readout through link that it can also reach maximum ~5v value on full open.

If you have dead spots, replace the tps.
If you can't reach 0.63v, check our IPS and butterfly. If all is good, replace the tps.
If you can't reach 5v or even very nearly, check your butterfly for obstruction/misalignment. If all is good, replace.
Ideally, you should not need to use offset or scaling in ecmlink using an OEM TPS.

The documentation and videos are quite clear for setting up an OEM TPS in link. The device itself and its operation is nearly fool proof and damn stout for being nothing more but a potentiometer that's constantly in use in all temperature ranges.
 
All good bud, we are here to help. Sometimes that's pointing to the search because of a well documented part or process. Sometimes we don't reiterate every step as well as the last guy :p

We'll all help you get yours up and running, that's why we are here. Well, that, and to hide from our wives after our latest parts order arrives.
 
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