AMS Black Talon

[1cleangsx]

Keep at it man she’s coming along, I love black 1ga’s when you speak of the dsm “golden age” it reminds me of my buddy’s 92 tsi back in 2006. Pump gas big 16g, afc controller, fastest car I’d ever been in, John Shepherd was practically a GOD , that was the first turbo car I had ever ridden in, and honestly the reason I bought my 90 GSX in 2013, something special about these cars, whether their running or not

 

[CrackedDSM]

Keep at it man she’s coming along, I love black 1ga’s when you speak of the dsm “golden age” it reminds me of my buddy’s 92 tsi back in 2006. Pump gas big 16g, afc controller, fastest car I’d ever been in, John Shepherd was practically a GOD , that was the first turbo car I had ever ridden in, and honestly the reason I bought my 90 GSX in 2013, something special about these cars, whether their running or not

Thank you brotha! I’m trying for sure.

But, that’s exactly when I mean. I think 2005-2006 was when I got my first dsm. A turbo awd dsm was unobtanium for me but I loved my little 1.8L 1G that I swapped to a 2.0L n/t. . Such good times. I hope we see a resurgence.

 

[19Eclipse90]

1) I bolted the lower heatshield down with some bolts I found. Contrary to what I found on searching, these bolts are NOT M8-1.25 X 15mm. They're M6-1.0 x 15mm (or some variant. They're 6mm bolts regardless.). The upper/exhaust manifold heatshield bolts ARE M8-1.25 x 15mm though. So that's true. Just not the turbine housing bolts for the heatshield.

The fact that it’s not an OEM turbo may account for that discrepancy. OEM lower heat shield does indeed use the same M8 x 1.25 x 15 bolts as the upper heat shield.

Might be careful with using any generic or low grade bolt in there. Consider how much fun we already have with the original bolts around hot exhaust temps - I would advise using something better rated for that environment.

On a different note, I’ve probably painted my wiper arms 4-5 times in my time of ownership and they’re back to looking rough again. I’ll try Plasti-Dip next!

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

I bought replacement wiper arms from rockauto several years ago, they looked like crap a year later, now they’re rockauto wiper arms rattle canned with engine enamel.

 

[CrackedDSM]

The fact that it’s not an OEM turbo may account for that discrepancy. OEM lower heat shield does indeed use the same M8 x 1.25 x 15 bolts as the upper heat shield.

Might be careful with using any generic or low grade bolt in there. Consider how much fun we already have with the original bolts around hot exhaust temps - I would advise using something better rated for that environment.

On a different note, I’ve probably painted my wiper arms 4-5 times in my time of ownership and they’re back to looking rough again. I’ll try Plasti-Dip next!

I didn’t think about that. It’s a very real possibility because the eBay 16G turbine housing I have is small too.


And no worries about the bolts. They’re OEM bolts for the turbo coolant lines.

 

[CrackedDSM]

So who wants to stop by and help a brotha out with assembly and the final push to start it? I’ll provide pizza and beer.


Wish I was closer to some DSMers.

 

[DreamChaser7]

So who wants to stop by and help a brotha out with assembly and the final push to start it? I’ll provide pizza and beer.


Wish I was closer to some DSMers.

I would love too. Little too far to convince wifey on it probably though…
I could tell the job and everyone to f@$% off for a couple days, but the dogs would never forgive me.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I would love too. Little too far to convince wifey on it probably though…
I could tell the job and everyone to f@$% off for a couple days, but the dogs would never forgive me.

Love it. The dog line killed me.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Hopefully get some wrench time on this thing next weekend. There’s a laser in my local junkyard that I’m waiting for it to be released. In the meantime I’ve finally found some b pillar trim pieces which are the final pieces to the puzzle.

Hopefully I can get the exhaust bolted up and everything buttoned up this weekend. Still need to figure out something to roll beads on these pipes and I need to buy t-bolt clamps. But, it’ll start and drive under the terrible piping situation so I’ll do that later.

Soon.

 

[Christo]

What model is the laser, have you seen it yet?

 

[CrackedDSM]

Well, someone got to the Laser before me. Mildly annoying because the yard said it wasn't gonna be in the yard until today, and I got there right when they opened the doors. So, either it's been in the yard for awhile, or the person selling it knew what to yank off. Because there was absolutely zero interior of any kind(except a few random trim bits, and the center vent. Lol. and the rear view mirror which was in bad, but not unuseable condition), the transmission was gone, and the valve-cover was gone as well as the throttle body, fuel rail and injectors. They left the non-cruise control throttle cable though, and the entire 4G63 N/T engine, and a few other bits. Mainly...these!

The stock cooling fans! Woo! I'm hoping these are the same, and what little research I could do in the yard yielded some promising results about 1G N/T 4G63 fans vs 1G Turbo fans. So I bought them for $45 total. Even if they're smaller than the turbo fans, they HAVE to flow more than the mishimoto garbage that was on there. Here's a picture of the mishimoto vs the smaller 1G A/C fan(I got that too. Gonna fab up a custom LICP to keep both fans).

It fits completely inside of it. . There's an even bigger gap against the cooling fan.

There we go. This coupled with a good A/C fan should really help with engine bay temps, especially with the OEM heatshielding I've got on there. At least it better! It's too hot to mess with it anymore today sadly, so this was all the progress I got. Getting so close, but man it's so hard to do anything even in the shade with this heat and humidity.

But, I will leave you with a picture of the final(at least one of) puzzle pieces for the interior.

Bam! A rear-view mirror! It's badly faded/lost the reflective part in the center, but it'll do for now until I can find a better/more mint example, or I may just buy a new replacement that has a compass off of Amazon for like $30. IDK.

Appreciate all the views and comments. It's coming along slowly, but surely!

 

[CrackedDSM]

Also: I did this because I got sick of waiting. I ended up coating it in some Caliper Paint that's rated for like 900* and it's tough AF man. It's gonna be a BEEYOTCH to remove this stuff if I ever want to get this VC powdercoated or something, but for now I'm happy with it. Not bad for a can I had laying around.

It's still wet, but I'm not gonna lie and say it's perfect. But, it's a solid 3 footer of a paint job. Waaay better than the flaky and powdery green/rusty white that it was. And it's the same paint as what's on the intake pipe so the colors will match. I need to recondition that oil-cap tbh(or just outright buy a new billet one) but I'm so happy with it.

Now we just gotta wait 7 full days for the paint to fully cure and dry. Yeah. It takes that long.

 

[CrackedDSM]

So, I'm supposed to wait seven days until the VC fully cures(it can be scratched/paint removed with your fingernail with minimal effort until it's fully cured), but I just couldn't wait. I didn't bolt it down, but I wanted to see how it would look in the engine bay, and honestly..I love it.

Eagle eyed viewers will see I replaced the radiator brackets too with some examples from the junkyard that the rubber hasn't been worn to hell and back. And they're not rusty! But, anyway, the plan for the engine bay is to remove both of those blue couplers for some red ones, and replace all the clamps with some t-bolt clamps. So just picture that blue coupler next to the TB as red. I'm still going back and forth on if I want to leave the UICP polished, or if I wanna paint the pipes red and just use some black couplers to complete the black and red theme in the engine bay. IDK...thoughts? Should I keep a little polished aluminum to break up the red or nah? Also...zaklee clear timing belt cover, or should I use a stocker that's been painted red to match the VC?


But, while I was at the junkyard I snagged some heatshield bolts from the 2.0 N/T that was in that Laser. They're a little rusty, but I did a test fit and they're perfect. Now it's held in nice and snug!

I really...really need to address this heatshield though man. The rust peeking through the terrible spray can primer is triggering the hell out of me. I'm gonna pull it off and use @Justin DuBois trick of coating it in Steel-It! spray aluminum to make it look new again. But yeah. Love where it's at so far.


The final thing was I was ready to wire in the new pigtail I pulled(more like got robbed on by) from the junkyard, when I discovered this.

Whoever install the rad and fans made it reversible. Like...honestly, shoutout to whoever did this. So all I had to do was unplug this harness, and plug the OEM fan in(along with the switch in the bottom of the rad) and bam. Done.


All in all...good day again. My first check in June(and every check after that) is pretty much all gravy, so updates will come fast and heavy starting then because I can just throw cash at it. Until then...baby steps.

Appreciate ya!

 

[Dericsh]

Polished pipes, black couplers, clear timing cover - that’s my vote.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I have been lucky to find Rich Howell - who has media blasting and powder coating at his house! Powder coating on anything not cast iron is working for me. Longevity - however - really depends on the prep. If you powder coat rust - it just bubbles and flakes and does not protect. Rich is a quality fiend - so the time he takes to blast the rust away - really away - makes all the difference. He even seperates the layers of the timing belt tins to strip and re-assemble before powder coating.

Semi-hot tin, like the heat shields, can be nursed along stripping the rust with either media blasting and/or ss wire wheel, then a thin layer of spray on galvanizing. I think the thinner the cold galvanizing, the better if you are adding a top cote like SteelIT. (stainless steel in a can)

I don't have a real good process for cast iron - and I generally just media strip, cold galvanize and let it go. The only attempt I have made to add steelit on cast iron is with the TDO5H cartridge. Since there is a water jacket in the iron, I expect the internal temps to be lower - so maybe there is a chance it will hold up.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I have been lucky to find Rich Howell - who has media blasting and powder coating at his house! Powder coating on anything not cast iron is working for me. Longevity - however - really depends on the prep. If you powder coat rust - it just bubbles and flakes and does not protect. Rich is a quality fiend - so the time he takes to blast the rust away - really away - makes all the difference. He even seperates the layers of the timing belt tins to strip and re-assemble before powder coating.

Semi-hot tin, like the heat shields, can be nursed along stripping the rust with either media blasting and/or ss wire wheel, then a thin layer of spray on galvanizing. I think the thinner the cold galvanizing, the better if you are adding a top cote like SteelIT. (stainless steel in a can)

I don't have a real good process for cast iron - and I generally just media strip, cold galvanize and let it go. The only attempt I have made to add steelit on cast iron is with the TDO5H cartridge. Since there is a water jacket in the iron, I expect the internal temps to be lower - so maybe there is a chance it will hold up.

Appreciate the tips/advice! I want this thing to look new again, man. I may honestly just say screw it and try to order a new heatshield from Amayama. But, until then I'll try to recondition this thing.

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

I always have had really good luck with VHT’s high heat stuff. I’d see if somewhere local could blast it for you then hit it with VHT’s header primer and aluminum silver header paint. Rust looks minimal so you could probably get away with running a wire wheel over it but might get messy depending how hard in the paint the guy or gal who primed it went. I’d offer to hook you up on the sandblasting but I’m no help way up North.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I always have had really good luck with VHT’s high heat stuff. I’d see if somewhere local could blast it for you then hit it with VHT’s header primer and aluminum silver header paint. Rust looks minimal so you could probably get away with running a wire wheel over it but might get messy depending how hard in the paint the guy or gal who primed it went. I’d offer to hook you up on the sandblasting but I’m no help way up North.

I could ship it to you! But the thing that stops me from investing too much into it, is the huge part that's been eaten away at the bottom of the manifold/where the collector is. I'm cool with blasting it and putting some elbow grease into it, but I want it to be worth it. I may honestly put a WTB ad out there into the ether here soon for a mint heatshield. What makes me sad is I had a nice polished heatshield back in the day but those seem to be all gone for everything except the FP manifold.

Alas.

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

Check with Rix Racing, he seems to get the nice stainless heat shields for the stock style manifolds from time to time.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Check with Rix Racing, he seems to get the nice stainless heat shields for the stock style manifolds from time to time.

I found one from Amayama but there's no telling if it's the right one or not. Might pull the trigger and just see what the dice rolls.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I found one from Amayama but there's no telling if it's the right one or not. Might pull the trigger and just see what the dice rolls.

did you try the vendors who advertise here?
STM, or RT Racing? I got my new ones here, but maybe stock is limited again?

 

[CrackedDSM]

did you try the vendors who advertise here?
STM, or RT Racing? I got my new ones here, but maybe stock is limited again?

Sadly no dice. They're not available from any of the vendor's I've tried. Amayama was the only place I could find them new.

 

[92Turbski]

Sadly no dice. They're not available from any of the vendor's I've tried. Amayama was the only place I could find them new.

Dude, check out this site called Megazip.net I'd bought an OE heat shield off of them theough ebay, they threw a card in there. Might be worth a look.

 

[chrisman287]

I would paint the heat shield black. Would look better than silver IMO

 

[92Turbski]

Sadly no dice. They're not available from any of the vendor's I've tried. Amayama was the only place I could find them new.

Yo, man. Here you go, in stock, too.

MR386056 - COVER, EXHAUST MANIFOLD, Mitsubishi OEM | Megazip.net

MR386056 - COVER, EXHAUST MANIFOLD, Mitsubishi. New spare parts Mitsubishi from Japan with easy payment system and door-to-door delivery.

www.megazip.net