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1G Alternator 80A fusible link blew, must use OEM or is aftermarket one ok?

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XC92

Proven Member
1,573
362
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
I just got and installed a new battery for my '92 Talon TSi AWD manual (Interstate Group 86 at Costco, $100), and the car started fine. I tested the battery before turning the car on and it was at 12.45V, which is nominal I believe.

I then tested it after running the car for a couple of minutes, and it was now under 12V, which is of course not right. I assumed that something was up with the alternator for this to happen. So I turned the car on again, and saw that the alternator belt was in fact turning the alternator.

I turned the car off again, and pulled the cover of the high-power fuses, relays and fusible links on the passenger side of the engine bay just forward of the battery, and saw that the 80A alternator fusible link had in fact blown. My guess is that it was thermal shock after years of not being used and then finally having power put through it on a coldish late fall day. But, whatever, it needs replacement.

The OEM part # is MU840021, which is available at dealers or online for $10-$16. Thing is, I want to have the car inspected today so I can finally drive and park the damn thing on the street, so I need to find one today, if possible. Autozone has one for just over $4:

https://www.autozone.com/electrical.../bussmann-fusible-link-bp-flm-80-rp/32397_0_0

Would a generic aftermarket such as this one work, or as with so many other things, I should really go with OEM on this? If the latter, would using a generic one for a few days until I can get an OEM one be ok, or asking for trouble?

Btw, does this fusible link control any other electrical components? I noticed that my dome lights only turn on when the engine's running, and the radio turns on but there's no sound.
 
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That fuse works with the altenator, a cheap one works just fine, as far as the dome light, there could be loose wire at the fuse box connector. The radio is it stock, thats a sound issue not related to the fuse in hand Ive done a lot of wiring to my car and it could be loose ground on the car, relating to the dome light.
 
Thanks. Ordered the Autozone one and will pick it up and install it and hopefully that fixes this.

As for these other issues, the dome light comes on, but only when the engine is running. That's not how it used to work back when the car was in driveable condition. Does it makes sense that it only works when the engine's running? The battery's fine.

The radio is probably a separate issue since it doesn't make sound even with the engine on.
 
No engine running and it working, makes no sense to me, the radio could be bad radio, or signal for the amp if you have one.
 
Just got back and installed the part, now the battery terminals are showing around 14.3V when the engine is running, so problem apparently solved.

Of course, wouldn't you know, now there's another problem. The car doesn't go into gear, except 1st, just barely. It had no problem doing so last week. Weird. Nothing's changed on the clutch/trans end.

I'll write it up in a separate thread as it would be off-topic here.

No engine running and it working, makes no sense to me, the radio could be bad radio, or signal for the amp if you have one.

No, the opposite, radio turning on, meaning lights, station select, etc., just no sound.

And, dome lights come on, but only when engine ON, not off.
 
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Thanks. Ordered the Autozone one and will pick it up and install it and hopefully that fixes this.

As for these other issues, the dome light comes on, but only when the engine is running. That's not how it used to work back when the car was in driveable condition. Does it makes sense that it only works when the engine's running? The battery's fine.

The radio is probably a separate issue since it doesn't make sound even with the engine on.
It's likely because the car is vibrating. Remove the rubber boot on the door switch. Remove it and clean the switch. Be careful you do NOT let the switch fall into the door or it's a pain. The switch gets rusty and doesn't make contact to ground. The switch is low on the rocker panel/door frame.
 
The switch is bypassed when the engine is running? I'll give it a look and try to clean it.

If you have the time, take a look at a new post I just put up in the drivetrain subforum and tell me what you think. The trans won't go into gear now, which it did last week. It's like I solve what I think is the final problem, then another one crops up. Old cars.
 
I also had a dome light ground not touch all too well to the body, check grounds in the body, i had to trace it down to bad grounds. Also a poor connection at the battery area,.
 
Well, again, it works when the engine is running, but not when it's off but the key is in the ON position.
 
It sounds like one of those damn dsm gremlins, its always something it happens to the bests of us, its a car murphys law.
 
Probably more old car than DSM issue. Although, I've had lots of relatively minor issues with it from nearly the start, jamming auto door windows, misaligned doors, detached rear defrost connection, spotty cruise control, soft allow wheels, etc. Performance cars aren't luxury cars.
 
Try an old volvo (or as they’re now called, subaru). Reliable and boring. Like a washing machine on wheels. If you’re looking at a dsm as dd, you’re as crazy as I am.
 
Never! Actually, I like Subarus. Considered buying one when I ended up getting the Talon. I think it was the STi or something, also a little 2+2 pocket rocket type sports car. Also had AWD. Just not quite as powerful and snappy as a DSM. I bought it to take a long drive cross-country (thus the user name here, summer of '92). Had a blast. But it's not a bad daily driver. Used it that way for over 20 years, till it finally "died". Meaning, developed problems I couldn't afford to fix at the time. Hopefully I'll have it up to snuff soon. As you you it's too fun to drive to give up. It's not a "practical" car which is precisely the point, and fun.
 
Well, again, it works when the engine is running, but not when it's off but the key is in the ON position.

Find the wiring diagram for the interior lights in shop manual, online, in tuners, dsmtalk, VFAQ, eatsleepdsm, there is a lot of resources, etc...

Look at the diagram, understand how the circuits function as intended by the OEM.

If there is still a concern with the way lights function and based on what the concern is; you will check all circuit related protection devices (fuses, links, circuit breakers), check voltage drop of the components and both the power&ground sides, inspect the wire harness/connectors/switches for faults, shorts, opens, high resistance.
If you check all that, you will find the problem. There is only 3 faults a circuit can have... Shorts to ground, open circuits, high resistance.
If you don't have any of those faults and there is still a concern, the load component in the circuit is defective. But in your case the lights work, so it must be a circuit issue.

Never! Actually, I like Subarus. Considered buying one when I ended up getting the Talon.

DSMs get a somewhat undeserved bad rep for "weak driveline" the only car worse is a subi . "Made of glass" gets tossed around a lot in the 5-speed WRX world. And I'd take the 4G engine any day over those boxers with the piston ring lands that let go at 380whp or a weak design semi-closed block deck.
Talon was the better choice for performance.
 
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Perhaps the performance subis have some issues, sure. I’m sure some could be chalked up also to pilot error; they have won rally championships. I was really making a statement about how practical their more pedestrian products are, but a bit uninspiring. I owned a 06 forester. Never gave a lick of trouble over 5 years. It was 75% Willys Jeep, and 75% honda civic. Wonderful, reliably engineered kitchen appliance. Somehow I decided to sell that in favor of my 90gsx, which had almost the exact same milage, but lived a far more abused life of 29 years. I have way more fun in the eclipse, of course, when it’s running:aha:
 
The dome light circuit is ALWAYS hot (12v+). When the circuit sees ground, it turns on the light so you have an issue with power that should be constant, all the time, no matter what unless the battery is dead. That is why Paul said to clean the door switches. They ground when you open the door to turn on the light. Perhaps someone before you has rewired the dome circuit to only be hot when the key is on. A thought.
 
Actiually, the dome light issue seems to have resolved itself. Now it comes on whether or not the engine is on, and what determines on/off is the combination of which of the 3 buttons is pressed and the doors being open or closed. The only things that have happened since this problem existed were my installing a new, fresh battery, and replacing a burnt-out alternator 80A fusible link. I did read on an old threat that the alt fuse somehow affects other circuits like the dome light. Anyway, solved.

I haven't yet checked the radio but I suspect that it too now works. The circuit to actually turn on and operate the radio is probably separate from its power amp circuit, I'm guessing. I'll post here after I've checked.
 
The switch is bypassed when the engine is running? I'll give it a look and try to clean it.

If you have the time, take a look at a new post I just put up in the drivetrain subforum and tell me what you think. The trans won't go into gear now, which it did last week. It's like I solve what I think is the final problem, then another one crops up. Old cars.
No. Thats not what i meant. The switch is a little triangle piece of metal on a spring. It gets rusty. All it does its contact the body and provide ground. With engine running it may have vibrated enough to make contact. Ive "fixed" them before by pushing the button and letting it snap back. Better solution is take it out and wire brush it clean.
 
Good man I've been there with my Dome light, bad ground, fixed that and and radio, all work on the same circuit.
 
No. Thats not what i meant. The switch is a little triangle piece of metal on a spring. It gets rusty. All it does its contact the body and provide ground. With engine running it may have vibrated enough to make contact. Ive "fixed" them before by pushing the button and letting it snap back. Better solution is take it out and wire brush it clean.

The dome light issue fixed itself, sort of. At least, it's no longer an issue. I wonder if replacing the bad 80A alt fusible link had something to do with it. Radio still not putting out sound though. Least of my worries at present. I'll deal with it eventually.
 
The dome light issue fixed itself, sort of. At least, it's no longer an issue. I wonder if replacing the bad 80A alt fusible link had something to do with it. Radio still not putting out sound though. Least of my worries at present. I'll deal with it eventually.

If the radio turns on but has no output it's either a shorted/defective speaker (the internal amp in the radio is protecting itself) or the internal amp is defective, or both. You can check the speakers with a multimeter. If they show ~4 ohms they should work, if any show 0 ohms they are shorted and you should replace them or cut the wires to see if that fixes the problem with the radio.
 
Thanks. I'll check all this. Even though it's not even CD I always liked this radio, with the mini-equalizer and aux input for playing MP3s, although BT has now made that obsolete and clunky, and the sound was pretty decent. But it may be time for a new head unit, amp and speakers.
 
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