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Altered Mental Status(1G AWD 5spd)

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I've been using the GM 3 bar for a decade but have had one separate on me. Replace it with another and all seems good, have an NTK as backup.
I trust them enough, more than omni.
 
I'm just gonna keep the AEM UEGO I have now unless it just ends up refusing to work or pisses me off somehow. Then I'll upgrade. I just really don't wanna have to pull it all out and run new shit unless I have to.

About to pull the trigger on a MAP Sensor though. I guess if I'm gonna start from scratch, might as well do it on SD. Plus I'll be able to VTA! Lol.


Alright, so I'm gonna wait til next payday(05/24) and then pull the trigger on a SD intake and MAP sensor. The SD intake is pretty trick, and a very old school thing that allows you to have a 3" aluminum mandrel bent intake w/ single port for a catch can or stock PCV vent from VC for $60-$70 including filter, tubing, and clamp/coupler.

Final Edit: Alright, I changed my mind again. 3 bar map sensor and intake are on the way. They had 10% off these intakes so I got it for $60 shipped instead of $70. :D
 
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So GM 3 bar MAP, and SD intake should be here HOPEFULLY by this weekend. Even if the intake isn't I'll be happy with just the MAP sensor. I'll just run the ugly MAF intake tube and etc just not plugged in.


Also went ahead and ordered a $14 shipped clear timing cover. My other one is all wrong and old, so I'm gonna put it up on a shelf and keep it as memorabilia. If this one doesn't work or whatever, I'll clearance it with sandpaper and make it fit then probably just paint it to look OEM. I have tried and tried and tried to find a good, uncracked, cheap OEM upper timing cover with no luck. People want $50 for them and that's not happening. So worst case scenario I'll just paint this one. Or if it fits w/ some minor clearancing, that's great too. :D
 
Find replacement or Fix current side mirrors doing the flippity floppity(the mirror inserts themselves sag down and won't stay where you put them)
There's tons of them on Ebay. I have a set for sale on there. If truly interested, I could pull the listings and sell them to you privately to avoid taxes and fees. Just let me know, and also shop around a bit to see how cheap some are being sold.
 
There's tons of them on Ebay. I have a set for sale on there. If truly interested, I could pull the listings and sell them to you privately to avoid taxes and fees. Just let me know, and also shop around a bit to see how cheap some are being sold.

Toss me some pictures broskichachotatoeheim.



Also: intake pipe isn't gonna be here until after my weekend off. :rolleyes: So ugly MAF attached intake will be left on until it comes. Still, excited the MAP is SUPPOSEDLY supposed to be here Friday. So that's cool. Wire in the wideband, seal off the windshield that's leaking, then snort a line of coke wire in the SD stuff, and make/post some logs. Woo.


Edit: I've decided I'm gonna do my first write up/tech article when the SD intake gets here. There's a couple threads already out there floating in the aether but the links are all outdated, and pictures are broken. I'll list it all. Car it OG comes off of, pictures of it in the ad, prices, all that stuff. People spending like $150+ on SD intakes just for a 3" pipe and a filter is ridiculous when you get the same stuff for $60. Kinda excited about that too.
 
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Boooo! Double boooooo...

Which intake pipe did you get?


It's off of another model of car, advertised as a "cold air intake". If you cut it at a certain point, you're left with a perfect SD 3" intake for a DSM, and a 90* elbow that can be used to actually relocate the filter into the very top of the fender well to function as a "cold air intake". I learned the trick like 15 years ago from someone, and have always done it, just never got around to documenting it or etc. Ends up costing like $60(back in the day it was like $30, but alas) for the intake, coupler, clamps, and decent filter with zero bending or fab work at all. Just cutting one spot.


To-Do
  • Wire wideband to ECU/Calibrate
  • Fix Seatbelts not working
  • Find/Fix headliner/interior firewall leak
  • Fix rough idle/misfire on cold starts
  • Fix knock sensor not showing connected to ECU(ECMlink keeps giving fault code for no knock sensor detected)
  • Fix stock gauges not working(mainly fuel level gauge, but for giggles wanna fix water temp and oil pressure, for OEM hawtness)
  • Find replacement or Fix current side mirrors doing the flippity floppity(the mirror inserts themselves sag down and won't stay where you put them)
  • Fix headlights that don't pop up(P.O. says missing relay, start from scratch though)
  • Fix Driver's Side headlight not working(aftermarket units w/ ballast...might scrap and go to old fashioned sealed bulbs/halogen)
  • Clean up ECU wiring/make passenger side clean and OEM looking(ECU on floorboard out in open right now)
  • F*CKING REMOVE THE NIGHTSHADE ON THE TAILS(either replacing them or doing the sand them clean and buff them shiny trick) (it's been tinted so g*d d*mned dark that you can hardly see when I'm on the brakes. Idiocy.)


Cross one thing off the list. Woo! Also kind of half crossed out another thing, because I'm 99% sure I found the leak at the windshield, now just gotta fix it.
 
You've made it a decade of boost only in the 20s? Should we have an intervention?
That was on a 1g fwd with no lsd. As soon as I touched 23 I was blowing the tires off in third.

Now I'm awd.. but also now on 91 instead of 94 and my one and only transmission. So 20s it remains.
That still makes it run with the big heavy boys around here easily enough
 
It's off of another model of car, advertised as a "cold air intake". If you cut it at a certain point, you're left with a perfect SD 3" intake for a DSM, and a 90* elbow that can be used to actually relocate the filter into the very top of the fender well to function as a "cold air intake". I learned the trick like 15 years ago from someone, and have always done it, just never got around to documenting it or etc. Ends up costing like $60(back in the day it was like $30, but alas) for the intake, coupler, clamps, and decent filter with zero bending or fab work at all. Just cutting one spot.





Cross one thing off the list. Woo! Also kind of half crossed out another thing, because I'm 99% sure I found the leak at the windshield, now just gotta fix it.
Honda Accord?
 
Wild. I remember it was like a 91-93 or whatever Accord CAI ebay special was DIRTCHEAP and someone figured out it worked on our cars. This is such an obsolete mod going back 15-20 years in the early days of eBay intakes coming out for 12 dollars shipped and it was mindblowing. Really scratched the back of my brain on that one.

Ultimately you just need two 45's making a lazy S shape, and the bung or two for the valve cover is nice.
 
Wild. I remember it was like a 91-93 or whatever Accord CAI ebay special was DIRTCHEAP and someone figured out it worked on our cars. This is such an obsolete mod going back 15-20 years in the early days of eBay intakes coming out for 12 dollars shipped and it was mindblowing. Really scratched the back of my brain on that one.

Ultimately you just need two 45's making a lazy S shape, and the bung or two for the valve cover is nice.

Yes, that's exactly what I'm talking about! It was freakin' ridiculously cheap back in the day and was exactly what you need.


However the using the leftover 90* you have (it's a pipe with two 45*'s and a 90 all in one, instead of just two 45's) as a cold air intake was 100% me. I'm taking credit for that one, because no one else did it back then. You use a straight 3" coupler and clamps to move it into the very top of the fender well where the OEM SMIC was. You can either holesaw the hole bigger to 3" or just cut the whole panel out.


But yeah. Easy AF, and still relatively inexpensive but nowhere NEAR as cheap as it used to be sadly.
 
Okay, I'm making notes and building a little work sheet/to do list and had some general ECMLink/tuning questions that I wanted to reiterate, mainly about injectors/global fuel.


@steve mentioned both InjBattAdj and Global fuel. Do I return InjBattAdj back to the original settings, and ONLY use Global fuel/deadtime offset that's in the Global fuel area? The 335 + 200 in the InjBattAdj line kinda throws me a bit. Right now the plan is to put the InjBattAdj back to how it was, and only use Global fuel/deadtime offset there. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Hopefully by doing that the ECU will stop trying to pull out a bunch of fuel as well.

I also have been encouraged to adjust the coasting fuel cut offset from 130rpm that it is now, to something like 500-600rpm to help "catch" the engine from dying. Is this a yay or a nay from you guys? It makes sense to me, but I've never messed with this part before.


All help is appreciated! Can't wait to dig in with the wideband logging and SD stuff in.
 
I think you have the most interactive/active build thread we’ve seen in a while LOL, is their a monthly MVP award??

I genuinely try not to spam or bump my thread unnecessarily, and try to share the love to other builds but yeah...I have a lot to say(and the vast majority of it is hot air), so I can't help it but to constantly update. Plus I'm completely unafraid of looking like a dumba** so if I have a question, I'll just straight up ask it. That usually stirs the pot and is enough to get people to chime in and massive/random discussions tend to happen (OFH, Solder vs Crimp, etc) that have great info from experts.


It's kinda what I'd want to see from others. Daily/several updates even if it's niggling/small stuff.
 
@steve mentioned both InjBattAdj and Global fuel. Do I return InjBattAdj back to the original settings, and ONLY use Global fuel/deadtime offset that's in the Global fuel area? The 335 + 200 in the InjBattAdj line kinda throws me a bit. Right now the plan is to put the InjBattAdj back to how it was, and only use Global fuel/deadtime offset there. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

The direct access map InjBattAdj is what the factory uses. The Fuel Global was introduced by ECMTuning to allow basic adjustments applied "globally" (equally across all voltages) to those values before there was access to the direct maps.

My recommendation is to always use one or the other but not both long term to reduce confusion. If you don't have by voltage data or are not tuning across different voltages using the global only works fine. Except for starting the cars voltage should be between 12v and 14v so those are the key and hopefully your injectors don't have a change in the slope around those points when compared to stock.

When the ECU is calculating how much fuel to inject it adds deadtime in at the end after all the other factors. I'm assuming DSMLink doesn't optimize when their global is 0 and always adds the global to the interpolated InjBattAdj value and then adds the result to the injector pulse width for a total. That's where the "335 + 200" comes from.
 
I think you have the most interactive/active build thread we’ve seen in a while LOL, is their a monthly MVP award??

For a while there, a little further back, reading this thread seemed to bring on a DSM form of PTSD. Couldn’t NOT read it. “Will he EVER get this thing running?!?”

So glad for you the car is running and keep sharing the progress because it’s therapy for all of the earlier angst.
 
Got the wideband wired to the ECU and logging. I had to adjust the settings manually to get it to match the log, but honestly I'm not sure it really does. I got it matching at idle and around the 13-15 range, but going WOT I swear the gauge pegs 10.0 but the log says 11.2. Has there ever been a case of the gauge reading wrong but the wideband sensor itself reading fine? IDK. I'm not gonna fight with this thing too much longer I can assure you before I swap it out with a newer/faster/better unit that will log with ECMLink. It's an ancient AEM UEGO from way before the X-series days. Here are a couple logs attached for your viewing pleasure.


Without overloading with details though, I enacted the changes @steve and @Stapl3 recommended, and the idle turned into straight poop. It wouldn't idle on its own, pegged super lean and would die after a brief struggle. Throttle input made it burble/hesitate a tiny bit(I'm assuming due to the lean condition). So I took out like 10% from global fuel, and it idled much better. Idled on its own, throttle response was crisp, and I felt confident enough to go for a drive. I also adjusted the FCoffset to like 450rpm, and now it doesn't die at all when I let off the gas and overall seems to idle much smoother.

I only had like 15 mins to mess with it, so these are all experimental changes. Just doing what I could to see how it would affect everything. Feel free to critique away.


Timestamp - Actual driving starts at 205.670 ish in the "after adjust global driving" log. Rest of the logs should be pretty straightforward/not need timestamps.
 

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MAP sensor came in the mail today, and mysteriously the pigtail that was supposed to be included was missing. Seller swears he packed it himself and is all but outright calling me a liar when I say its not in the box. Neither side of the small flat rate USPS box he shipped it in was taped, and the sensor was just rolled in bubble wrap and neither ends closed or taped off.

Long story short, no SD conversion for at least a couple weeks. I have to wait for another pigtail and the intake anyway, so f*** it. Just gonna focus on getting the MAF setup on the car to work as good as possible. Tomorrow I'm gonna spend more time trying to calibrate the wideband to ECMLink, because the WOT portion is just wrong. It runs 10.0 at WOT and 8-9lbs, but the log says wideband claims 11.3, which would be stellar if it was true.

So yeah. Not gonna lie, I'm extremely annoyed but such is life. I must say though, if the AEM UEGO fights me even a little bit more than normal tomorrow, I'm gonna rip it out, sell it, and replace it with an LC2.
 
I just wanted to update this with some advice for anyone in the future. If you have an AEM UEGO and are having some issues with matching logged wideband to gauge, watch this video from @gofer . This was a GODSEND for me, and fixed my issues completely. The values AEM gives you are entirely wrong for ECMLink. Follow his video and it makes it foolproof.

Seriously Gofer, thank you for the video. It helped immensely.

Here's the video.





Also: fixed the knock sensor not showing up in Link. It was plugged in to the wrong plug. :ohdamn: To give the previous owner credit, there are like two or three plugs in the vicinity that are all identical and will plug in. I only knew the right plug because I was checking wire colors and grounds in the FSM in order to rewire/fix what I thought were bad wires.

So awesome. No extra wiring needed is always a good day. Now I can hide the ECU and put the kick panel back on.
 
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Well that gives me a bit of hope that the process still works. What model of UEGO?


It's like 10-12 years old minimum. So like, the 30-2002? It's got the Bosch 4.2 sensor. I think there's some lag between what's logged and what's showing on the gauge. Also: plugged in the VSS, so now we can see MPH. Woo.


Edit: Throwing up my driving log for giggles in case anyone wants to view it. It's a looooong log, but with the VSS enabled now you can see when I'm driving vs when I'm just idling. You'll see I messed with settings and such...just call me/them out and I'll change them. Still running rich AF up top.

Also: input these voltages into the AEM Wideband to get them reading a little more correct in the log(at least within .1-.3 points, it's still a work in progress to calibrate this PITA).

Min volts: .61
Min Lambda: .68
Max Volts: 2.40
Max Lambda: 1.00

That should get you close enough for government work. BoostEST is pretty damn close to actual boost from memory(it hit like 13-14lbs on the gauge up top).
 

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