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Altered Mental Status(1G AWD 5spd)

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He actually CC’ed two other people and I think he forgot he did that because at the bottom was his email to two other guys asking “are we actually gonna tell him what the thickness is?” Like it’s some trade secret. LOL
Well I think that needs to be public knowledge at least on here. Hope you get it and can share it.
 
Well I think that needs to be public knowledge at least on here. Hope you get it and can share it.


I'll measure mine just to do it at this point and post it up. Might see if I wanna post a thread and have others all measure theirs. Ridiculous you can't just give someone a straight answer. I'm sure if ACT or other clutch companies wanted to copy you they'd just do what everyone else does. Buy a product, then copy its specs exactly.

But whatever. I've beat that dead horse enough, they aren't budging. Honestly if the pedal pressure of a 2600 wasn't ridiculous, I'd just jump to ACT. I may try to push a 2100 if this southbend stuff doesn't work out and see what can be done on one.
 
If there is any sort of problem with the clutch, just let me know and we will get an RMA and send it back to them for inspection / measurement.


I'm hoping it doesn't come to that. Reaaaaally hoping it's either the flywheel's fault, or the master's fault. Don't wanna count my chickens before they hatch.
 
My SBC ceramic disc that I showed in post #24 here measures 0.326" thick right now today.
It was only in the car for 250 easy miles. There's practically no wear on it. So it was probably within a couple thou of that when new.

ACT, in the install instructions that they give you with the 2700 (MB1-XTSS) says their discs are 8mm (0.315") "compressed thickness" when new, and that allowable wear down from that is about 2mm. (here)
My ACT street disc that was in that clutch in my car measures 0.312" thick right now today.
That disc was used for about 900 miles, easy use (no launches). So when it was new it was probably really close to that 8mm that they state for a new disc.
I made my measurements with a good dial caliper.

From the low amount of wear I get on my clutches, you can kind of see how Phil Hill was always my fave race driver when I was a kid. He could go pretty fast and still nurse the car through 24 hours at Le Mans and maybe even win. 🙂
 
My SBC ceramic disc that I showed in post #24 here measures 0.326" thick right now today.
It was only in the car for 250 easy miles. There's practically no wear on it. So it was probably within a couple thou of that when new.

ACT, in the install instructions that they give you with the 2700 (MB1-XTSS) says their discs are 8mm (0.315") "compressed thickness" when new, and that allowable wear down from that is about 2mm. (here)
My ACT street disc that was in that clutch in my car measures 0.312" thick right now today.
That disc was used for about 900 miles, easy use (no launches). So when it was new it was probably really close to that 8mm that they state for a new disc.
I made my measurements with a good dial caliper.

From the low amount of wear I get on my clutches, you can kind of see how Phil Hill was always my fave race driver when I was a kid. He could go pretty fast and still nurse the car through 24 hours at Le Mans and maybe even win. 🙂

Appreciate ya!
 
I’m determined to get my southbend to fully release, swapping out my master soon, I’m gonna purchase an extended slave rod with it and possibly try that when I replace the master cylinder, one thing I can say that’s interesting about the whole “my clutch is dragging” series is PRESSURE in the hydraulic system is where it’s at. Not long ago after another many adjustment attempts I knowingly had my master OVER adjusted, as in the slave wouldn’t self adjust, as in I couldn’t move the fork by hand….but the car didn’t move an INCH on a clutch drag test, but you can’t drive your car if the slave isn’t self adjusting, JACK M himself stated the extended slave “preloads” the system which helps but your slave piston is bottomed out, and can accelerate wear on the $43 throw out bearing LOL CLUTCH DRAG accelerates wear on the WHOLE DAMN TRANS LOL I know for a fact increased pressure in the hydraulic system HELPS release your heavy ass clutch, the extended slave isnt a band aid fix, it’s simply an attempt to make something work on a system that was NEVER designed to work with anything other then a factory pressure plate.

Convince me I’m wrong.
 
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You’ve been on a twin for awhile now, are you still a fan of it?
I am kind of ok with it. I've gotten more acclimated to the sudden engagement so that I don't jerk the car when I shift.

I do a thing that makes easy street launches less finicky - I keep the Launch Limit in ECMlink set to 3,000 rpm. That way I can just put my foot in the gas pedal as far as I want and let the clutch pedal out fairly normal (not too worried about finding the sweet spot for slipping) and that will get me what I consider a "normal" start from stop like from a traffic light with no drama.
Some people would hate that because you need a lot more than 3,000 rpm to get a "hot" launch of any kind.

Then the only time I'm hunting for the sweet spot for clutch slipping is when I'm pulling into the garage, or if I needed to be maneuvering around in a parking lot.

I do like it that the full range of movement it needs at the throw-out bearing is much less than it was with the ACT 2700 pressure plate. It's a short enough range of movement that the crappy 1g pedal assembly can handle it with a little to spare.
Also the lower pedal pressure means less stress and less deflection on all those pedal assembly parts.

I've never had a South Bend pressure plate, so I don't know really how it goes with them. My SB disc was with the ACT pressure plate.
But I'm OK enough with the twin that I'm just not going to chase the solution to a heavy single anymore.
If I did want to chase it I'd probably be thinking about a custom or very modified pedal assembly and maybe a master cylinder with a slightly larger bore diameter so it moves more fluid. The larger bore would also increase pedal effort, but I don't think that's so much of an issue leg-wise. It's more of an issue for the amount of strain and deflection on the pedal assembly.

The basic idea of a twin is good. People with other platforms like Nissan who have more and nicer twin options than we do usually say to me that once you are over about 500 hp it's just time for a twin disc. Because that's how you get a lot more torque capacity from the same diameter flywheel and bellhousing.
 
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I am kind of ok with it. I've gotten more acclimated to the sudden engagement so that I don't jerk the car when I shift.

I do a thing that makes easy street launches less finicky - I keep the Launch Limit in ECMlink set to 3,000 rpm. That way I can just put my foot in the gas pedal as far as I want and let the clutch pedal out fairly normal (not too worried about finding the sweet spot for slipping) and that will get me what I consider a "normal" start from stop like from a traffic light with no drama.
Some people would hate that because you need a lot more than 3,000 rpm to get a "hot" launch of any kind.

Then the only time I'm hunting for the sweet spot for clutch slipping is when I'm pulling into the garage, or if I needed to be maneuvering around in a parking lot.

I do like it that the full range of movement it needs at the throw-out bearing is much less than it was with the ACT 2700 pressure plate. It's a short enough range of movement that the crappy 1g pedal assembly can handle it with a little to spare.
Also the lower pedal pressure means less stress and less deflection on all those pedal assembly parts.

I've never had a South Bend pressure plate, so I don't know really how it goes with them. My SB disc was with the ACT pressure plate.
But I'm OK enough with the twin that I'm just not going to chase the solution to a heavy single anymore.
If I did want to chase it I'd probably be thinking about a custom or very modified pedal assembly and maybe a master cylinder with a slightly larger bore diameter so it moves more fluid. The larger bore would also increase pedal effort, but I don't think that's so much of an issue leg-wise. It's more of an issue for the amount of strain and deflection on the pedal assembly.

The basic idea of a twin is good. People with other platforms like Nissan who have more and nicer twin options than we do usually say to me that once you are over about 500 hp it's just time for a twin disc. Because that's how you get a lot more torque capacity from the same diameter flywheel and bellhousing.


Randomly reminds me I tried playing with two step/als in link and it wasn’t activating. Need to address that.

But this is all good info. Keep it coming.
 
I gotta say I’m not hating on South Bend at all, I love the clutch, smooth engagement, holds torque, and I admit the fault is probably on my end, but after the headache of pulling the pedal assembly and rebuilding it and fixing the slop, several bleeding sessions and still fighting clutch drag it IS a drag LOL, but I’m gonna try one more time with this next oem master, bleed like always with it adjusted all the way OUT (away from firewall) then thread it in for more pressure/engagement and bleed it some more, if that doesn’t do it then I’ll either try the extended slave or a bigger master cylinder :)
 
IMG_5779.jpeg

IMG_5780.jpeg


Woohoo. It’s so new and purdy.

Not sure if I’m gonna install it this weekend or not. I hate dropping this f*cking transmission. Lol. But it’s nice I have it.
 
Measure it. Whether you change it or not measure it so you know what it is.

That’s why I had it shipped to Tim Zimmer. He measured every single bit. It’s .608” everywhere.

if you do it, show how you pull the flywheel bolts

Like…as in how I clean the holes? Or literally video me impacting them off?
 
That’s why I had it shipped to Tim Zimmer. He measured every single bit. It’s .608” everywhere.



Like…as in how I clean the holes? Or literally video me impacting them off?
This threads Gettin Dirty, I wanna see the whole video too. Show me how you take those bolts off…
 
I’m just not ready to drop the transmission again this weekend so yeah, not happening until I feel like it. Probably a month from now. Lol. Or sooner if I can find a lift/air tools to make it a breeze.


But in the meantime, I scored an SSQV IV for $35 locally. I bought it thinking it was fake so I could rob it of it’s oem fin, but did quick research when I got home after he included what appeared to be real HKS instructions, found out it’s real! Legitimately was stoked. It's got a tighter piston/spring, and it's way cleaner in appearance. So I quickly swapped the fin for my recirc fitting, and popped it on.

Comparison of old SSQV(that I honestly think is a knock-off), to new SSQV.

IMG_5782.jpeg
IMG_5784.jpeg


Old
IMG_5785.jpeg


New
IMG_5786.jpeg


Old
IMG_5789.jpeg


New
IMG_5787.jpeg



And here it is in the bay. Honestly think it looks so much better than the corroded old half-eaten away polished one. But can I just say, getting that c-clip in there properly and tight is a B*TCH. Using a long, thiccc flat-blade screwdriver to press down on the back while you press on the front with c-clip pliers is how I got it in there nice and tight like.

IMG_5791.jpeg

IMG_5793.jpeg


Kinda cool man. It also came with two flanges, both of them look like they could be used on a 2G DSM to bolt on an HKS Valve. One is 34mm and the other is like 28mm. Gonna keep them, just incase I need them or whatever. But for $35 it was a steal IMO.
 
I’m just not ready to drop the transmission again this weekend so yeah, not happening until I feel like it. Probably a month from now. Lol. Or sooner if I can find a lift/air tools to make it a breeze.
Yeah man take your time and get better tools if you can. I don't even do that kind of stuff at all anymore but if I did it would be bit by bit and would take a while. For me it's gotta be Easy. 🙂
 
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