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Air Conditioning (A/C) Problem, New Compressor, Doesn't Cool, Please Help!

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I now live in Vegas (which is way hotter in Florida) and a lot of mechanics and car enthusiasts here use more coolant than water. It's up to you. I was told by a radiator shop that vehicles that just add water are more prone to rust. One more thing, your water pump and other cooling components need the lubrication of the coolant. But it's up to you.
 
Well I changed out radiator fluid put like 60% water and 40% coolant + water wetter. High A/C line is hot and low side is warm. Guessing that normal.

A/C is ice cold when dsmlink's stock gauge (stock boost gauge) reads below half line. Once car is running for a while A/C blows warm air.

I took it for a long drive today over 1hr. at first A/C is nice and cold, then it blew warm air, so I had windows down (this was in stop and go traffic), then I took the highway and was going 80 in 5th gear and wow A/C blew cold air. Once I get into stop and go traffic, A/C blows warm air again..After the long drive, the stock temp gauge goes a bit higher then mid line, but just a bit, then it went back down to middle.

Once I got home, I turn off car, ECU reads it is overheating by the way. I turn on car and car wants to die goes to like 400rpms and drops to 0 if I don't rev, then dies. I noticed this is a symptom of the coolant temp sensor. It also smells real rich and Im getting like 200mpg to the tank, mostly non boosting. What you guys think? Kind of two separate issues, but didn't want to start new thread.
 
The low side being warm is not normal. It should be cold. Did you try spraying the condenser with running water while the a/c is on? Are you sure that you have enough freon in the system? What does your manifold gauge read when the a/c is on? Getting 200 miles in a tank isn't right. If I were you I'd replace the coolant temp sensor.
 
The low side being warm is not normal. It should be cold. Did you try spraying the condenser with running water while the a/c is on? Are you sure that you have enough freon in the system? What does your manifold gauge read when the a/c is on? Getting 200 miles in a tank isn't right. If I were you I'd replace the coolant temp sensor.

Hmm I haven't sprayed condenser, how exactly would I spray the condenser with a FMIC and radiator in the way?

Also I replaced the coolant temp sensor yesterday and drove it, hard a couple times and I was surprised that the dsmlink stock boost gauge I have set showed it as being just a bit higher than mid line, the stock coolant temp gauge was just in the middle. Then after driving much longer the dsmlink gauge went all the way up, it never went all the way to the + where the CEL would check on...The stock coolant temp gauge was normal...Now Im clueless because I did change the coolant temp sensor and ECU still reading higher than stock gauge..

Also once car is heated or overheated like dsmlink states and I turn off car and let it cool for like 20minutes, it starts up hard, like real rough idle, and it dies if I don't rev it...Don't know if that has anything to do with my problem or if that is something else again...Getting tired of this car...:confused:
 
Just spray through the intercooler. I'm pretty sure it'll reach your condenser. Did you bleed the system well when you changed your coolant?
 
How did you check how much freon you added to the system (or did a shop do it)?
 
Just an update, changed out headgasket and it looked fine. Changing it out anyway for maintenance.

So mostly everything is fixed and Im wondering why A/C wont cool sometimes, now I was reading that the fans can be the culprit as that true? I'm running 1 cheap eBay slim fan which probably doesn't flow as much as stock and stock fan. I read thread where wiseman had same problems as me and he said it was the fans, he changed them out to SPAL fans that flow much more than stock and it fixed his overheating problems! Not sure of the A/C problems he was having because his A/C would not cool sometimes like me. So just wondering if it can be overheating problem that causes that or maybe the fans?
 
Check out our forum. Automotive AC Information Forum - ACKITS.COM. There are a lot of things you didn't do correct and a lot of people fail to do. Number one when you replace a compressor, at minimum you replace the drier and the whole system must be flushed out. Since the clutch was bad we can assume that no debris was in the system. In that case you would replace the compressor, drier and expansion valve because prolonged exposure to air will cause it to stick shut. The condenser on our cars have a design in which is not flushable. But since no debris was in the system you can try to flush it to get all of the oil out. When any component is replaced the whole system must be flushed in order to get the proper amount of oil. 1oz too much or too little and it will cause the system not to cool or fail soon after if it's shorted. I am guess what you did is replaced the compressor and it had a charge of oil in it and that added well over the system capacity of oil. Too much oil in the system will cause high pressure's and inconsistent cooling. I run ebay fans as well and have no problems so I doubt it's the fans. Any more questions just check out our forum.
 
Now I have problem again :ohdamn:

Well I did my timing belt and now for some reason, the A/C compressor doesn't kick in when I turn it on. Also had someone do my Headgasket job, but he must of messed something up when plugging the electrical? I looked at the A/C compressor and it seems hooked up properly. What can this be? It was running before the headgasket job...
 
Is the harness plugged into the pressure switch on the drier? Is the system full? If it has a leak and get's too low it will not engage the clutch to preserve the compressor.
 
Yea everything is hooked back up, nothing from the drier was disconnected, is a ground needed for anything in the A/C compressor? Everything is hooked up, I didn't have any leaks.

I noticed A/C compressor has the triangular plug that connects and it is connected, but I disconnected it and I noticed there is another triangular plug that fits (closer to the stock fpr) But it won't reach down there to the A/C compressor, so I doubt it is it.
 
Your FMIC could be blocking enough air so that the condenser can't do its job. Especially when it is hot and humid the condenser depends on air flow to do its job of changing the gas back to a liquid. If you can pull the FMIC off and see if that helps improve your a/c and overheating problems.
 
I fixed the A/C and overheating problems, so it basically a new topic, just didn't want to post a new thread. Everything was working properly, then once I did the headgasket job, now the A/C doesn't engage at all. What could it be, there are only two connectors on the compressor and they are connected, can the be misconnected with another connectors? Is a ground needed for the compressor?

By the way my fuses are good.
 
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