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2G Aftermarket Alarm?

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alexr254

Proven Member
294
105
Jun 18, 2021
Palm Coast, Florida
In a 2G Eclipse Spyder GS.
I’m trying to program a new OEM key fob and having issues.
I jumped pins 1 and 4 and went through the pairing steps, tried several times. No luck.

The key fob that came with it is definitely not OEM. And the alarm goes off sometimes if I use the key fob to lock/unlock and then open a door.
I’ve had to use the physical key to lock and unlock to avoid the alarm from blaring, it is deafening and the only way I can shut it off is by disconnecting the battery.

I also noticed the passenger side electronic locking mechanism is very weak. Sometimes it seems like it’s lacking enough power to fully lock. Like it tries, lags, then just quits.
I figure this can be why the alarm goes off unexpectedly after locking/unlocking and opening the driver side door, if the passenger lock never got fully engaged and didn’t lock.

What I am wondering is if there may be an aftermarket alarm installed that I just don’t know of. I checked and found the OEM alarm module behind the back seat, it is plugged in.
If there is some aftermarket alarm system, is there a typical place it would go?
I would really like to just get the OEM fob working and remove any aftermarket stuff like that.
I just don’t know where to even begin looking.
 
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99.9% of aftermarket alarm systems are going to be tucked up under the drivers side area of the dash. You need to drop the drivers side knee panel and then also drop the metal housing attached to the steering column area. Follow any wires attached to the key cylinder harness and that should lead you to the "brain" of the aftermarket system.

The passenger system not working well is usually the mechanism itself needs to be cleaned, and greased again.

Post a pic of the suspected aftermarket key fob and also what you find under the drivers side dash.
 
Regarding your weak power locks....
You can actually repair your door actuators. I should have taken pictures when I took mine apart and replaced the motor. The hardest part was removing the worm gear off the original motor without damaging it. PM me if you need help. There is also a set for sale in the Classifieds from a reputable seller.
 
Regarding your weak power locks....
You can actually repair your door actuators. I should have taken pictures when I took mine apart and replaced the motor. The hardest part was removing the worm gear off the original motor without damaging it. PM me if you need help. There is also a set for sale in the Classifieds from a reputable seller.
Can you share the classified link?
I searched but couldn’t find it.
 
No, I don't think it should, unless they severed the wires instead of tapping them.

Do as Dusty mentioned above, find the aftermarket brain, likely under the dash, behind the ECU, but it could be elsewhere. From there you should be able to figure out what kind of module/brain it is, and look up wiring schematics.

These are the wires and the location for a 2g one would typically use for an aftermarket alarm or aftermarket remote door unlock.
 
No, I don't think it should, unless they severed the wires instead of tapping them.

Do as Dusty mentioned above, find the aftermarket brain, likely under the dash, behind the ECU, but it could be elsewhere. From there you should be able to figure out what kind of module/brain it is, and look up wiring schematics.

These are the wires and the location for a 2g one would typically use for an aftermarket alarm or aftermarket remote door unlock.
That’s what’s messing me up.
There are no extra modules under the dash except for the innovate lc2 module I put there myself.
Also nothing irregular the center where the ECU lies, or behind it. I know this for a fact because I swapped the ECU for a ecmlinked one.

I’m thinking maybe something might have been hard wired right into the driver side panel wires, just for the aftermarket fob.
I guess I’m going to need to remove the panel again :(
 
So it seems everything on the passenger side is slow and weak.
The lock, the front window, and the quarter panel window.
Sometimes (more often then not) the windows won’t even roll all the way up without manual assistance. They roll down without any issues.
Sometimes the front window makes it all the way up on its own, but it is painfully slow compared to the driver side.
The rear window never makes it all the way up without manually pulling it up.

The driver side always clicks into lock, the front window rolls up all the time without assistance, and 2x as fast as the passenger side.
However the quarter panel window on the driver side still does require manual assistance to get all the way up.
I figured it’s due to the rag top install. It may be too tight there and causing some friction.

Maybe it’s all connected in some way?
Or maybe I just have a myriad of issues I still need to fix?
 
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