afr gauge reads 14.6 almost constantly

[Brinker]

im running a PLX AFR gauge and before i could see my afr going from 15's when i cold started the car to 12 or 13 going down the road or when i get on the gas. last night it went to 14 and just stopped. i get as low as 13.9 but thats it. checked all my connections and they are check out fine. does anyone have a suggestion on what to try next?

 

[mitsurage]

Have you calibrated the sensor?

 

[And_44]

O2 sensor could of taken a poo. They don't cycle when the heater element goes on them.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

Although I have an AEM gauge, I recently had a similar issue only mine was stuck on one number only. the cable on the back of my gauge came unplugged. I plugged it back it and it was fine. It is a quick and easy check just in case....


**edit** I need to have my dang eyes checked. I even read the OP's post... I see that you checked all your connections already.

Only thing I can think of as was stated above is calibration of the sensor or the sensor/gauge is now dead...

 

[SleepinGVR4]

Sensor is most likely dead.

 

[alphamythos]

Sensor is dead. If you have it replacing the front o2 they burn out faster . The closer the the manifold the less life you will get . Most people state they get 15k to 30 k miles max on them

 

[92 GSR-4]

??

I'm not following. Your AFR should always read around 14.7:1 when in closed loop mode, i.e. idle & cruise. You should see it go down in the 11's during open loop, i.e. heavy load / WOT.

When you first crank the car up it'll idle a little rich but once the idle comes down and the narrowband O2 starts cycling you should see 14.7:1.

Or am I missing the issue?

FYI I've been using a Zeitronix wideband for about 7 years now and still using the same sensor...Bosch I believe.

 

[And_44]

The older sensor's maybe had issue's with life being close to the head. But the newer established name brand sensor's will last fine in front location. Can increase the odds by making one of the copper heat sinks that is found in vfaq.com.

But if the sensor is dead you'll be in open loop all day long and seeing a constant 14.7 and your ECU will automatically be dumping fuel to make you rich to lessen the chance of detonation. It will run your fuel maps off the reading from your MAF and TPS. It's not economical but will burn through gas, plugs, and will make your Cat work harder burn hotter and shorten it's life possibly by getting rid of that excess fuel.

One way to tell if your O2 sensor is shot for sure is if you have access to a datalogger to look at your fuel trim. Low Medium and High will ALL be at 100% and never changing.

 

[Brinker]

the afr was at 14.6 during WOT. I calibrated the sensor and it fixed nothing. I just figured for gits and shiggles id go back and check all the connections again. on the box it was ok i even moved the wires around to make sure there wasnt poor wiring and nothing. so i disconnected the gauge under the hood and reconnected it and that fixed it. I was thinking of getting the PLX multi gauges but if they have the same connection problems then thats a no

 

[HighpsiaddicT]

sounds like sensor took a crap buddy

 

[Brinker]

gauge works fine now and has been for the last 24 hours