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420A 2gNT AF/X Underdrive Pulley (UDP) install

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Alright, I just installed it today so its fresh on my memory. Sorry, no pics now, maybe I'll get some later. I know that there is the guide on 2gnt.com, but I thought I would write one and try to be more detailed.

You are going to need an assortment of sockets, wrenches, and ratchets, cause apparently no 2 bolts on the car are the same size. You will also want to buy a bolt that is at least 5" long and has a 12mm (I think but you may want to check what yours is) regular thread to use in place of the stock bolt that holds the pulley on. You will also need to rent a 3 jaw 5 ton gear puller. We used a smaller one that fit on the middle part of the pulley, cause a shop i originally took it to used one that went on the outside and you could see little chunks that broke off. It also helps to have some extra hands. My Dads mechanic at work was a TON of help!

First, get your car up on a lift or jack stands. I used a lift at my Dads work. Now you need to remove the wheel well splash shield. Remove the front passenger side wheel. Looking into the wheel well, on the right side of the rotor on the back of the wheel well you will see 2 bolts, one right above the other, remove these. Now follow the back panel up and it should be about an inch behind the panel above it. In the gap there are 3 bolts screwing up, 2 are in the wheel well, and one is in front of the wheel well. Remove these and bam, there's your stock pulley.

Pop the hood, and look at your power steering pump on the front passenger side of the engine bay. Left of it will be the tensioner pulley. There is a bolt on the back of this that you must loosen, which loosens up the belt. I did this incase I couldn't get the stock pulley off (again), that way I could reuse the belts. Now, there are 2 red bolts on the alternator, one on top and one on the bottom that face the driver side. They are a pain in the ass to get to, but you have to loosen these. Next loosen the bolt on the back of the alternator, this loosens the belt itself. Do this until you can take the belt off.

Now remove your coolant reservoir. This just pulls right out. Set it on your header or where ever you deem fit. Behind the coolant reservoir is the silver motor mount. You will see a bolt that screws towards the passenger seat. On the right of the motor mount you will see a bolt and 2 nuts. Before you do anything, put a jack under your oil pan with a block of wood to distribute the weight. Do not put any force on the oil pan, just a little love so that the engine won't move when the mounts are removed. Now remove the center bolt and the 2 nuts next to it on the right side of the motor mount. Then remove the bolt that goes directly through the motor mount and is screwed in towards the passenger seat. Now remove the entire mount. Lower the engine with the jack as much as you need until the smaller radius part of the stock pulley can clear the frame.

Now, remove the stock bolt from the stock pulley, and screw in the longer one you bought. hook up the gear puller, and push the screw thing against the new bolt. Continue cranking on the gear puller until the pulley comes off. Mine would make a popping sound and move a bit, then again and again. It should come off with little difficulty if done right, I don't know why the shop I took it to couldn't get it off.

Now that the stock pulley is off, we placed the new pulley up to the crankshaft, and with a hammer lightly tapped it on enough so the bolt you bought (mine was only 4", we used a longer bolt that was a different size to get it off, but either way it works) will reach the thread in the crank and start screwing in. Once its threaded in, start cranking on it with a socket wrench, tightening and tightening. Make sure it goes on straight, you don't want it to wobble. If you reach a point where the pulley isn't on all the way, but it won't tighten anymore, then it probably is on crooked and you need to redo it. The farther you get the pulley on, the harder it is to crank, and the more the crankshaft will want to move with it. In a manual, have someone sit in the drivers seat, put it into 5th gear, and hold the brake down HARD!! Continue cranking on the bolt. Once you think you have it in far enough, you can take the new bolt out and put the stock one in. Continue cranking the stock bolt until the pulley is on all the way.

Now that the pulley is on, jack the motor back up to its normal position, and put the engine mount back in. Put the coolant reservoir back into place. Then route your belts through (hopefully you remember how they go) the system of pulleys. The thin belt that came with the pulley goes on the part of the pulley with the thin track, and that belt connects to the alternator only. Now retighten all of the tensioner bolts that you loosened in the begining. Tighten the belts till there is little to no movement in them without using considerable force.

With the belts tightened, give her a start, just to make sure the belts and pulley are alighned right. If everything looks good, your almost done. (make sure you take it out of gear! i forgot this, and it wasnt in 5th all the way, so this loud clanking noise was being emitted. just popped it into neutral and it stopped)

Now put the the wheel well back together. Put the wheel back on. Remove the jack from under the engine, and lower her back to the ground. You're ready to give it a test drive!

It took us about 3 hours to do... with a bolt run in the middle.

I'm not sure about the gains from it right now cause it was raining the whole night, so i couldn't push it without spinning the wheels, but when I did get traction, I felt better acceleration.

Hope this helped any of you still confused after reading Gordon's guide on 2gnt.com. If you want to add anything feel free to PM me.

Happy tuning,

-Chris
 
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