AEM WB Narrowband sim problems

[jordan99GS]

My front o2 took a dump the other day, so I figured now is as good of time as any to start logging my WB. So I took out the old sensor, and replaced it with my AEM WB that was previously in a "rear o2" bung that was welded in my exhaust. I switched the WB to the P04 output, and tapped my white wire into the front o2 wire going into the ecu. I enabled the NBo2 sim in link. and have it set to read the front o2. During idle its stuck in open loop and is pegged at .80v... under throttle it will run all the way lean, but idle it will be somewhat decent anywhere from 13:1 to 14-15:1 but still open loop without the o2 cycling. I'm not sure exactly where i went wrong. but I'm about to just buy another front o2 and put my wb back into the downstream bung. But I'd like to be able to log my WB for tuning purposes. So, if anyone has a suggestion or idea on where I might have gone wrong please give me some input. And for reference, I didn't cut the front o2 wire and splice the WB in, I only exposed some wire and wrapped the WB wire around it. then taped it off.

 

[blizz99]

Did you calibrate the wideband to ECMLink and set the switch point?

To check the raw value of the wideband open your idle log and open displayed items, click raw values, scroll down to the raw value associated with your wideband. Once its displayed scroll around in the log until you find a spot where your wideband is reading exactly 14.7 afr and then look at the raw value your wideband is logging. This value is what you need to set your NBO2 sim switch setting to.

Use this video to show you how to fine tune your WB http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDRI_0yWdjQ&feature=youtu.be also remember if you make changes to your wideband settings you will most likely have to change your sim switch point

 

[jordan99GS]

Would it not being calibrated cause it to be stuck in open loop mode and not cycling the wideband?

 

[blizz99]

Won't hurt trying it out. Right now your ECMLink replaced your o2 with the wideband so if the wideband is off it can throw the ecu off. If you want to log your AFR accurately you're going to have to do that anyways.

 

[LiquidX]

When you are stuck in open loop, generally there is too much fuel. You would be much better getting an OEM narrow band in there and putting the wide band further down so you have an accurate way to measure and compare readings.

But the best thing you can do is post up an idle log for us to view.

 

[jordan99GS]

If I'm not mistaken, shouldn't the o2 voltage should still cycle up and down even if the calibration is off? I will post a log when I get home.. and I had to order a new NBo2 so it will be here Saturday. I will most likely set it back up to how I had it before, for the simple fact that it works. I just thought it'd be nice to log my WB so I didn't have to go off memory. My factory AFRest is a bit off.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

look at your AEM paperwork, it says the switchover for the EUGO is 2.35v and delay of 15 seconds. thats what im running and have no issues. why did you switch to P04..? im on P00..

 

[jordan99GS]

I read in a different thread to set it to the p04 setting.. and here is a log. and i have the switchover point set at 2.33

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I read in a different thread to set it to the p04 setting.. and here is a log. and i have the switchover point set at 2.33

even though you put the sensor in the front o2 position, are you sure you didnt use the ECU pin out for the rear? i did. and i ahve to select rear o2 in the ecu pinouts tab.

 

[jordan99GS]

the 1g's don't have a rear o2.. and I have the front o2 wire tapped. I want to say my problem might be because I didn't cut and butt my wideband and ecu together, I stripped the wire and tapped it that way. so it still runs to the front o2 female plug in the engine bay (which has nothing plugged into it) but I'm afraid to cut it and have it still not working. and I think I have to use the p04 setting because its a 0-1v output just as the stock sensor.

 

[LiquidX]

If it's an empty plug then the tap isn't a problem.

As mentioned it's best to keep the setup the way you had it. If the actual sensor calibration is off or the sensor is dying then your fuel trims will be very off.

If you have an exhaust leak that is affecting the sensor that will affect your trim too.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

id also recommend against butt connectors, and that you should use solder for all your electrical stuff.

 

[jordan99GS]

I borrowed an o2 sensor from a buddy of mine, until mine gets here on Saturday, and hooked it back up to the way I had it. It works so.. if it ain't broke don't fix it applies here. My car is in closed loop again but my wide-band keeps giving me 17:1 and up to --- so I've got a hunch my sensor is bad.. I'll be doing the test once the car cools down. but if anyone has any input on my new idle log I'd love to hear it. and PS my map sensor still needs to be adjusted, haven't had the time to log a cruise.. thanks for the help guys

 

[blizz99]

You might want to check your global and deadtime and adjust them. Also, CALIBRATE the wideband and set switch point . Your ISCPosition should be at 30 and you're at 120.

 

[LiquidX]

BISS is out of adjustment as stated above; LrndIdleAdj should be around 155 when the ICSPosition is set correctly. Use a global of -19.6% (560cc), bump up dead time as your AFREst is reading lean. Do you have any exhaust leaks? Have you tested for exhaust leaks and boost leaks?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

got a link for the isc calibration? you just need to ground diagnostic pin and a pin on the isc connector?