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2G Advice on my 1st Gst Build

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Andrew Johnson

Probationary Member
1
0
Jun 10, 2014
asheville, North_Carolina
Ok So, heres thes deal, this is my first eclipse build, I bought a 96 GST Spyder, It has Full Exhaust, No Cat on it, And a CAI, other then that STOCK! So I'm wondering what would be the next thing to do, to add some power to it. I want a fast car so im thinking eventually 500-600HP SO how bout some advice guys?
 
Maintenance. Before taking the car past stock levels you will need to get familiar with how everything works and is put together. Slow down a bit and get some goals, plan your build out to meet your goals, and do research. Get the right information, and plan your build accordingly.

5-600hp is far from stock. You will have to upgrade everything from fuel, turbo, intake piping and intercooler, a way to tune.

At 600hp your transmission will need some work. A stock clutch and flywheel won't be pleasant for very long.

Take a look at the following link, and read around a bit.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/basic-horsepower-ugrades-2g-4g63t.480196/#post-153434564
 
I agree, maintenance is the most important thing on a car that's used, especially a DSM. I personally recommend getting a way to tune the car before any further mods, it makes the most out of anything you buy to make the car have more power.
 
Money. Setup a budget and a plan to reach the goal.
Or do it the other way around. And that is a LOT of power for a street driven car, and most people that have to ask questions like that are new to modding cars, and lack experience, money, and perhaps most importantly, another car to daily drive. Sure you can daily drive a car with that much power, but not while building it, and working out the numerous bugs/kinks, and fixing it along the way. You can certainly get that much power, but it won't be cheap or easy, and if I'm right in my guessing that you're young, not loaded with cash and don't have another car, I would start with a more realistic goal, like 300-400, which is quite a bit in these little cars btw. Life coaching out of the way:
I would start with the exhaust which you said it already has, so that's a plus, though I'm guessing its not actually a COMPLETE exhaust, and only from the downpipe back, if that is the case I would pickup an aftermarket o2 housing and exhaust manifold, but there are a few things to determine first. The turbocharger, o2 housing, and exhaust manifold, must all be chosen to be compatible with each other. First, the exhaust manifold is going to determine what turbocharger you can run, so you actually have to decide that first, the general rule of thumb when sizing a turbocharger to your power goals is that for every CFM a turbocharger can flow, it will make ~10hp. ie. I have a 20g tdo5 hybrid that flows ~40 lbs. So it will be capable of roughly 400hp. You want to get the smallest turbocharger possible for your goals, to keep spool as low/quick as possible, things like ball bearings, and twin scrolls can also help a little bit with that. That being said, you can't just bolt on a 60 cfm turbocharger, so you'll either have to get a manifold that mates to factory style turbo housings and upgrade the turbo later, or save it for last. My choice in this case would be to get an FP(forced performance) manifold, they flow great, work with the factory turbo allowing you to upgrade that at a later time, but swap the manifold now, and I've never heard of one cracking, which cannot be said of the tubular style manifolds. The o2 housing will also be dependent on the turbocharger, some turbochargers have the wastegate on them, some don't and require an o2 housing mounted wastegate, aka. external. Then you'll have to decide whether to vent the wastegate to atmosphere(loud, and spews hot exhaust gasses where you might not want it to, ie. I removed the one that was on my car when I bought it after installing my FMIC bc it was pointed right at my charge pipe.) If those were my power goals, I would probably go with an FP red internally wastegated factory style housing turbo, FP manifold, and PR(punishment racing) recirculated o2 housing. I would get the o2 housing and manifold first, and put the turbocharger off till you have the rest of the supporting mods.

After the exhaust, I would pickup a boost controller, and a boost gauge to keep things in check. Just keep in mind, you can't run less boost than what your wastegate is set at, ie. my 20g is internally gated at 13 psi, sure I could set the controller to open it at 5, but it won't be enough to overcome the wastegate spring. From there I would rewire and replace the fuel pump(there are kits made for this) because the factory wiring can't carry enough amperage to run the fuel pump at its full potential. Then I would get an AFPR(adjustable fuel pressure regulator) to keep the new high flow fuel pump in check. The necessary software/hardware to tune the car, ie. an aftermarket ECM such as AEM, or MSD(I'm sure there's others I can't think of right now). Or a factory computer of a certain year range modified with a chip, such as dsmlink.(the most popular choice). Will also need a wideband o2 sensor to monitor AFRs(air fuel ratios)
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/injector-and-fuel-pump-supported-airflow.366003/
You will need 1000-1150cc injectors(these will require tuning to get the car to run properly). And at LEAST a 255 wally HP, bigger or dual pumps if running more than 25 psi of boost.
Next on the list is going to be an FMIC(front mount intercooler), the sidemount intercooler won't cut it at those power levels, and besides, FMICs just plain look awesome, shows people you mean business. You will also need an aftermarket, or a crushed 1g BOV(blowoff valve) to hold more boost.(and please don't vent it to atmosphere till you know what the repercussions are) I'm not certain, but I think you will need help in the octane department up that level as well, via. meth injection or converting the car to run on e85(100 octane, vs 93 octane of premium) to stave off detonation.

I think that covers everything required to MAKE the power, though I would also recommend a pair of camshafts(based on dynosheets I would go with kelford(and will be for my build) HKS, GSC, crower, brian crower, FP and probably a few I'm forgetting also make cams for these cars), an aftermarket intake manifold(such as jmf or magnus) and a larger throttle body.

Handling all that power and not breaking everything is a whole nother matter...
Pretty much going to need a rebuilt engine, with forged rods and pistons at a minimum, the stock crank MIGHT handle 500-600, but I wouldn't gamble my other components on that, I would suggest getting a forged or billet crank. Most people also eliminate the balance shafts at this point, to eliminate a potentially catastrophic failpoint, and some rotational mass. It will make the car shake a tad more(particularly with poly engine/trans mounts, let alone solid), but that just gives it even more of that authentic race car feel. On the cylinder head, you're going to want to at the very least gasket match the ports on it, I would also suggest upgrading the valvesprings and getting titanium retainers(less reciprocating mass) to stiffer ones better able to handle a beefier pair of cams with added lift, and better control at high RPM(ie. preventing valve float), would also suggest aftermarket SS valves if planning to raise the redline.(dropping a valve can be pretty catastrophic).

Transmission rebuild, I think shepherd stopped doing transmissions for the DSMs, last I checked Jacks transmissions still does(I think they are the only place that caters to our transmissions. Rebuilding a transmission, while possible to do yourself, is generally something most people source to a shop that specializes in them. Jacks also sells kits for that, or at least used to. Also of note here, I don't think there are any options for beefing up an automatic transmission, though I've never made the effort to research that either.

Clutch, at those power levels I'm fairly certain it will have to be a puck clutch at least, if not a twin disk, select one based on how much torque you have, you will also need a stronger pressure plate. It should be noted that anything other than a twink disk that will handle that much power will probably not be street friendly, especially if paired with a lightweight flywheel.

Transfer case and rear diff, I know there are some aftermarket units available for the rear using the factory housing, but I am unaware of any options for the tcase.

You'll probably have to replace your axles at least once, I would also suggest doing the equal length axle mod, helps with torque steer, wheel hop and such.

Last but not least, it would be just plain insane to put all that power down through stock suspension and brakes, I'd recommend replacing all ballpoints, tie rods, and bushings. I would suggest polyurethane bushings, they will however make ride quality harsh, though I personally feel that if you care much about ride quality in a 600hp car you should buy a bentley. Some decent coilovers, and bigger brakes, probably a good idea to swap out those rubber lines for SS braided, and replace the hardlines if rusty, you don't want your brake lines blowing out in a car with 600hp.

I think that's everything, but its late so I probably did leave something out. I would strongly suggest you build a 300-400hp car before building a 600hp one. Things are less likely to break, and it will be a lot more streetable, and not require as much money/parts, plus being able to run pump gas without meth.
 
You sound a lot like me when I first started with my Very first DSM back in 07. I wanted that thing to fly from being so fast. In reality though I would say the most important thing to start off with is set yourself to little goals at a time. Do 1 upgrade at a time. And they don't have to be huge upgrades. The second car thing is a MUST. When you dive into performance in a car there is no telling what is going to break or need replaced while you're taking stuff off. The last thing you want to do is dive straight into the engine and be left with no car because you got carried away. Hope you well on the build! Keep us with updates! nothing cooler than watch a car getting built.
 
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