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420A AC delete?

Stizzydrew

Proven Member
96
16
Nov 11, 2021
Los Angles, California
I was wondering if it’s possible to do an AC delete on my 420a?

My ac does not work and I was wondering/hoping if anyone knows how to do so?
I would might as well take it off and have a little more space in the engine bay.
Please if anyone knows how to do this or has done this let me know ! This is something I actually wanna do if possible.

As you can see I have all the working space I need to remove it but I need guidance!

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,698
5,537
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Just unbolt the compressor and run a smaller belt, that's what we normally tell people. I am not as familiar with the 420a belt routing but on the 4g63's it is just like I said. Unbolt it and the lines get removed. We have a separate belt that runs our A/C and it is the BACK belt out of all three so ya either take off every other belt or just cut the a/c one after you have the compressor off. That will make more room for you up front in that bay!
Lets holler at my friend that is good with the 420a stuff....... @BLACK'98DSM can you verify what this member is wanting to do and the proper way to go about it? THANKS!!!
 

Stizzydrew

Proven Member
96
16
Nov 11, 2021
Los Angles, California
Just unbolt the compressor and run a smaller belt, that's what we normally tell people. I am not as familiar with the 420a belt routing but on the 4g63's it is just like I said. Unbolt it and the lines get removed. We have a separate belt that runs our A/C and it is the BACK belt out of all three so ya either take off every other belt or just cut the a/c one after you have the compressor off. That will make more room for you up front in that bay!
Lets holler at my friend that is good with the 420a stuff....... @BLACK'98DSM can you verify what this member is wanting to do and the proper way to go about it? THANKS!!!
Thank you!!😁 let’s see what he says!
 

BLACK'98DSM

Proven Member
3,716
1,341
Feb 9, 2019
Alabama
First thing I'll say is make sure the system gets "safely" discharged. You know, don't take a pressurized line loose in front of your face. R134 is supposedly toxic, and be careful because it is technically illegal to just let it spray in the air. You're supposed to get it vacuum by an A/C machine. But hey I'm not watching how you do it. Honestly there's no A/C machine at Pull-A-Part either so we spray it out there a lot LOL

If you delete the A/C then go ahead and delete the tensioner pulley and bracket too. They're heavy and ugly as well. You can do this because our power steering pump can be used as the tensioner. There's plenty of wiggle room on the upper bracket bolt holes so you can use a prybar to adjust the pump and set belt tension, once it seems right crank down on the bolts.
I would assume our motors are like this because the pump was probably the tensioner on a factory non A/C car (if there were any?)

It's not hard to find the right belt size. I think there's a list on 2GNT for various 420a applications, but can't find it at the moment. I have an underdrive pulley + A/C delete so what I did is go to the local pharmacy and buy one of those flexible waist measuring tapes and wrap it around the pulleys and pull it tight. Measure with the pump centered in the bracket so you have about an inch wiggle room either way if your measurement is slightly off.

Deleting the condenser requires removing the front bumper since it's in front of the radiator supports. But it won't hurt anything to stay in place. That's up to you.

This is the belt I used:
MPX P/S belt (no A/C): 5040375 (DAYCO P/N, 37.5 inches diameter)
I would imagine yours needs to be at least an inch longer for the larger diameter of the stock crank pulley.
 
Last edited:

Stizzydrew

Proven Member
96
16
Nov 11, 2021
Los Angles, California
First thing I'll say is make sure the system gets "safely" discharged. You know, don't take a pressurized line loose in front of your face. R134 is supposedly toxic, and be careful because it is technically illegal to just let it spray in the air. You're supposed to get it vacuum by an A/C machine. But hey I'm not watching how you do it. Honestly there's no A/C machine at Pull-A-Part either so we spray it out there a lot LOL

If you delete the A/C then go ahead and delete the tensioner pulley and bracket too. They're heavy and ugly as well. You can do this because our power steering pump can be used as the tensioner. There's plenty of wiggle room on the upper bracket bolt holes so you can use a prybar to adjust the pump and set belt tension, once it seems right crank down on the bolts.
I would assume our motors are like this because the pump was probably the tensioner on a factory non A/C car (if there were any?)

It's not hard to find the right belt size. I think there's a list on 2GNT for various 420a applications, but can't find it at the moment. I have an underdrive pulley + A/C delete so what I did is go to the local pharmacy and buy one of those flexible waist measuring tapes and wrap it around the pulleys and pull it tight. Measure with the pump centered in the bracket so you have about an inch wiggle room either way if your measurement is slightly off.

Deleting the condenser requires removing the front bumper since it's in front of the radiator supports. But it won't hurt anything to stay in place. That's up to you.
Okay wow thank you I see! Gonna do it soon definitely want this ac out since I have no use of it LOLll but I really appreciate it man! You guys are the best.
 

Stizzydrew

Proven Member
96
16
Nov 11, 2021
Los Angles, California
First thing I'll say is make sure the system gets "safely" discharged. You know, don't take a pressurized line loose in front of your face. R134 is supposedly toxic, and be careful because it is technically illegal to just let it spray in the air. You're supposed to get it vacuum by an A/C machine. But hey I'm not watching how you do it. Honestly there's no A/C machine at Pull-A-Part either so we spray it out there a lot LOL

If you delete the A/C then go ahead and delete the tensioner pulley and bracket too. They're heavy and ugly as well. You can do this because our power steering pump can be used as the tensioner. There's plenty of wiggle room on the upper bracket bolt holes so you can use a prybar to adjust the pump and set belt tension, once it seems right crank down on the bolts.
I would assume our motors are like this because the pump was probably the tensioner on a factory non A/C car (if there were any?)

It's not hard to find the right belt size. I think there's a list on 2GNT for various 420a applications, but can't find it at the moment. I have an underdrive pulley + A/C delete so what I did is go to the local pharmacy and buy one of those flexible waist measuring tapes and wrap it around the pulleys and pull it tight. Measure with the pump centered in the bracket so you have about an inch wiggle room either way if your measurement is slightly off.

Deleting the condenser requires removing the front bumper since it's in front of the radiator supports. But it won't hurt anything to stay in place. That's up to you.

This is the belt I used:
MPX P/S belt (no A/C): 5040375 (DAYCO P/N, 37.5 inches diameter)
I would imagine yours needs to be at least an inch longer for the larger diameter of the stock crank pulley.
About that belt you used, I have a lightweight pulley it seems smaller then the stock, I’ll see with a string of some sort to see if it still 37.5 inches. I don’t think it’ll fit with that belt but definitely gonna check :thumb:
 

Stizzydrew

Proven Member
96
16
Nov 11, 2021
Los Angles, California
First thing I'll say is make sure the system gets "safely" discharged. You know, don't take a pressurized line loose in front of your face. R134 is supposedly toxic, and be careful because it is technically illegal to just let it spray in the air. You're supposed to get it vacuum by an A/C machine. But hey I'm not watching how you do it. Honestly there's no A/C machine at Pull-A-Part either so we spray it out there a lot LOL

If you delete the A/C then go ahead and delete the tensioner pulley and bracket too. They're heavy and ugly as well. You can do this because our power steering pump can be used as the tensioner. There's plenty of wiggle room on the upper bracket bolt holes so you can use a prybar to adjust the pump and set belt tension, once it seems right crank down on the bolts.
I would assume our motors are like this because the pump was probably the tensioner on a factory non A/C car (if there were any?)

It's not hard to find the right belt size. I think there's a list on 2GNT for various 420a applications, but can't find it at the moment. I have an underdrive pulley + A/C delete so what I did is go to the local pharmacy and buy one of those flexible waist measuring tapes and wrap it around the pulleys and pull it tight. Measure with the pump centered in the bracket so you have about an inch wiggle room either way if your measurement is slightly off.

Deleting the condenser requires removing the front bumper since it's in front of the radiator supports. But it won't hurt anything to stay in place. That's up to you.

This is the belt I used:
MPX P/S belt (no A/C): 5040375 (DAYCO P/N, 37.5 inches diameter)
I would imagine yours needs to be at least an inch longer for the larger diameter of the stock crank pulley.
Hey bro i took of the “L” line and I’m stuck with the long H line left, it seems it’s being held by just 1 bolt on the fire wall. Is that all it is? Or is it the entire adapter thing it connects to?

Also for the AC is it just those 3-4 bolts that hold the ac? Now that I’m looking more into it .. it doesn’t seem that complicated to take it off unless I’m wrong. L lines near the condenser?, H lines that goes to the fire wall? and then unbolt the AC off the block and boom? Here’s a video if that helps to understand what I mean.

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BLACK'98DSM

Proven Member
3,716
1,341
Feb 9, 2019
Alabama
Those are studs on the firewall. Remove the nuts and slide the lines off and that plate will stay on the firewall. Also I'm pretty sure there's 4 bolts that hold the A/C compressor in a square pattern.

Before you take the lines loose you need to either remove or open the valve on the line labeled H (high side). That will release your pressure. Do this outside or in a well ventilated area.
 

Stizzydrew

Proven Member
96
16
Nov 11, 2021
Los Angles, California
First thing I'll say is make sure the system gets "safely" discharged. You know, don't take a pressurized line loose in front of your face. R134 is supposedly toxic, and be careful because it is technically illegal to just let it spray in the air. You're supposed to get it vacuum by an A/C machine. But hey I'm not watching how you do it. Honestly there's no A/C machine at Pull-A-Part either so we spray it out there a lot LOL

If you delete the A/C then go ahead and delete the tensioner pulley and bracket too. They're heavy and ugly as well. You can do this because our power steering pump can be used as the tensioner. There's plenty of wiggle room on the upper bracket bolt holes so you can use a prybar to adjust the pump and set belt tension, once it seems right crank down on the bolts.
I would assume our motors are like this because the pump was probably the tensioner on a factory non A/C car (if there were any?)

It's not hard to find the right belt size. I think there's a list on 2GNT for various 420a applications, but can't find it at the moment. I have an underdrive pulley + A/C delete so what I did is go to the local pharmacy and buy one of those flexible waist measuring tapes and wrap it around the pulleys and pull it tight. Measure with the pump centered in the bracket so you have about an inch wiggle room either way if your measurement is slightly off.

Deleting the condenser requires removing the front bumper since it's in front of the radiator supports. But it won't hurt anything to stay in place. That's up to you.

This is the belt I used:
MPX P/S belt (no A/C): 5040375 (DAYCO P/N, 37.5 inches diameter)
I would imagine yours needs to be at least an inch longer for the larger diameter of the stock crank pulley.
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Here is the other line I’m talking about.
 

Stizzydrew

Proven Member
96
16
Nov 11, 2021
Los Angles, California
Those are studs on the firewall. Remove the nuts and slide the lines off and that plate will stay on the firewall. Also I'm pretty sure there's 4 bolts that hold the A/C compressor in a square pattern.

Before you take the lines loose you need to either remove or open the valve on the line labeled H (high side). That will release your pressure. Do this outside or in a well ventilated area.
Okay do I just screw the cap? Open it? Is a special tool needed for that? … what if I F it and don’t release the pressure LOL and yes I’m open large space garage.
 

BLACK'98DSM

Proven Member
3,716
1,341
Feb 9, 2019
Alabama
.
is it that dangerous? Lol
There is more pressure in the system than you might realize. Not just pressure but some fluid too which sprays out a mess. Unless your system had a leak and none is left.
 

Stizzydrew

Proven Member
96
16
Nov 11, 2021
Los Angles, California
I just checked my DSM scrap pile and yes there are 4 mounting bolts for the compressor. Don't forget unplugging the connector too

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Oh okay thank you.
Now how do I release the pressure? What is it that I need for this .

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BLACK'98DSM

Proven Member
3,716
1,341
Feb 9, 2019
Alabama
Hey I’m having a problem, the only thing stopping me now is the left bottom bolt. (Next to the spinner for the belt) it seems like it gets caught and impossible to get out… how did you get this out? :banghead:
Getting caught on what? I don't recall having this issue. It might just be the weight of the compressor since that's the last bolt holding it on. Try holding some weight off it while you remove the bolt.
 
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