ac compressor

[dyablo]

Last summer my ac compressor died on my 96 gst. It was working fine then some times it would not kick in, later it was making some not so good noises and it stoped putting out cold air. Now a week ago I bougth a used compressor off ebay when I went to install it I thought the lines would be empt since I thought the old compressor stoped working, but I was wrong. When I was taking of one of the lines going to the old compressor, well Lets just keep it at it was still pressurized. So I put the compressor from ebay in re-charged it and It was making some weird noise, like if i had installed a supercharger in the car. Two days later I hear a leak and its coming from the compressor so now the ac does not work again. Its 100 degress in AZ now and I still need to get this compressor thing fixed. So now I have one compressor that I think the clutches might be dead since the thing inside the pulled spins freely, and the ebay compressor that the inside things in the pulley dont spin freely. I cant see my self paying 358 dollars for a new compressor from the dealer so is there a way to possibly fix one of the 2 compressors i have?

 

[sadsm]

Not exactly sure, but I think you have to have them hook your ac system up and have it vacuumed or something like that. You have to have a special machine to do it. I hope someone comes on here and confirms it.

 

[Naveed]

if anything the freely spinning clutch is an indicator that the compressor needs a new clutch, it should not spin freely.

the one you got off ebay sounds like it is fine, but you should have had the system flushed then vacuum'ed for like 10-15 minutes, at a ac service station before can charging it.

also did you put new o-rings on the lines to the compressor upon installation?
AND put in a new dryer? (or "accumulator", that sits behind the driver side headlight) it is that silver canister looking thing with a sightglass ontop of it.
whenever you "open" (disconnect the lines) you are suppose to put a new dryer in.
and ALWAYS put new o-rings on whatever lines you disconnect.

It sounds as if you didn't put new o-rings on after you installed the ebay compressor and it started leaking. IF you did put new rings on...then you gambled and lost on ebay, cause the compressor itself is leaking somewhere. That or you didnt torque down the lines enough.

I always say, unless you are ASE certified in AC maintenance. TAKE TO A AC SHOP.
pay the extra to know that the job is getting done right...besides not to many DSMers have ac vacuum pumps laying around.

so.

1) new o-rings (torque to factory specs)
2) new AC Dryer
3) Vacuum the system down
4) have them fill the compressor with the right mix of oil and R134 for around 20 bucks.
(might be lil more might be lil less)

that should get you fixed up.

 

[dyablo]

if anything the freely spinning clutch is an indicator that the compressor needs a new clutch, it should not spin freely.

the one you got off ebay sounds like it is fine, but you should have had the system flushed then vacuum'ed for like 10-15 minutes, at a ac service station before can charging it.

also did you put new o-rings on the lines to the compressor upon installation?
AND put in a new dryer? (or "accumulator", that sits behind the driver side headlight) it is that silver canister looking thing with a sightglass ontop of it.
whenever you "open" (disconnect the lines) you are suppose to put a new dryer in.
and ALWAYS put new o-rings on whatever lines you disconnect.

It sounds as if you didn't put new o-rings on after you installed the ebay compressor and it started leaking. IF you did put new rings on...then you gambled and lost on ebay, cause the compressor itself is leaking somewhere. That or you didnt torque down the lines enough.

I always say, unless you are ASE certified in AC maintenance. TAKE TO A AC SHOP.
pay the extra to know that the job is getting done right...besides not to many DSMers have ac vacuum pumps laying around.

so.

1) new o-rings (torque to factory specs)
2) new AC Dryer
3) Vacuum the system down
4) have them fill the compressor with the right mix of oil and R134 for around 20 bucks.
(might be lil more might be lil less)

that should get you fixed up.

To answer all your question...No to all. So I missed alot of steps then. If I go out and buy new o-rings, ac dryer and install every thing then take it to a shop to get it vacumed and recharged that could get thing to work. But, what about the distant whine i get when the compressor did not kick in? When it kicked in the noise would go away? Would that go away with the proper oil and stuffl like that?

So... what size are the o-rings if any one knoes and what Oil?

 

[Naveed]

well....not to sure could be alot tof things (trash, moisture, lack of oil) running through the compressor...or maybe that ebay's compressor couldnt handle the improper installation, and decided it is going to die on ya. If anything i would bet the clutch is starting to die on it.

I hope it is just the fact that you need to flush, vacuum, and have the system properly filled. Any reputable ac shop knows how much and what type of oil to use, i beleive it is PAG oil.

Just take the old rings off the old lines and have them matched...im not sure of the sizes..sorry.

 

[dyablo]

is there any kit out there to rebuild the old compressor? I have an extra one that the clutches are dead and would like to rebuild that one.

 

[GTM]

is there any kit out there to rebuild the old compressor? I have an extra one that the clutches are dead and would like to rebuild that one.

Woah I'm reading so much nonsense here I have to roll my pants up. I don't know where to begin other than say don't spend any money or listen to these unqualified replies.

Let's start with sounds, distant whine... would you know when the condenser fan was running and say this was not the same??

When an A/C compressor has too much freon, too little freon, or air in the system they will make noises.

It is not clear which parts you are identifying when the compressor is off the car or has no belt. Starting at the front, the first thing you touch is the actual electromagnetic clutch disk which is bolted to the crankshaft. If you grab it firmly it should turn in either direction with or without freon. There should be no noises though may feel a change in resistance as the pistons come up on compression. The disk can wobble a bit because it monted to the hub on flex springs, it should not be touching or dragging on the pulley.

The next part will be the pulley for the belt, when the system is NOT turned on this will spin freely without noise and should not wobble or have any freeplay. When electricity is applied to the magnetic coil the disk is drawn into the pulley and the compressor will spin.

My guess is your freon was low, at night when things were cool(er) the pressure inside the system would not allow the low pressure switch to activate thus there would be no power to the electromagnetic clutch. As the engine got warm and or the heat of the day built the pressure built, threw the switch and you had limited A/C. This explains why the intermittant operation.

I'm not an DSM expert so can't answer if they have a seal kit or if you have to buy parts by the each. You say clutches, it's singular and it's the disk mentioned above, why do you say it's dead?.

You really need to get this/these diagnosed correctly and from qualified people so bear with me. I just didn't want to see you running out spending money based on some of the replies.

Something you can do is get a jumper wire and attach to the electromagnetic coil, if you have a jumper or booster battery ground the compressor and put power to your wire. The clutch disk will slam tight against the pulley with a resounding clack and now both can turn together.

The low pressure switch prevents the compressor from turning and burning it's self out just as running an engine without oil.

Please get back with answers to my questions and I'll try to get get you some cold air. If you are really into DIY and a good scrounge you can maybe get an old frig that the motor runs for free. Pull the motor with the capacitor, cut the tubing leaving as much of the large (suction side) attached to the compressor. Cant find a frig, then a window mount A/C motor unit will actually move more air faster. Either of these make perfectly good vacuum pumps for home use. The window A/C if 9000 BTU and above will make a good air compressor for air tools, be careful with the pressure for they will kick out 300 PSI on the high side and blow up most tanks. You will then clamp a piece of fuel hose to the suction side and a nipple for your A/C hose. You really need an A/C manifold set but we may be able to work around that.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[dyablo]

Thanks for all your information. Although I gave up on trying to fix my a/c by my self I went to autozone and ordered a new compressor that cost 345.00 Dollars + drier 60 dollars well yeah thats alot of cash I had saved up for injectors. I was wondering since Im going to take the car to a shop to have it re-charged can I install the new compressor and drier or do they have to do it. I asking because most shops charge by the hour. Also the autozoner recomended me to buy an expansion valve. I didnt have the cash at hand so I did not buy it buy what is it for? and is it a must?

 

[GTM]

Thanks for all your information. Although I gave up on trying to fix my a/c by my self I went to autozone and ordered a new compressor that cost 345.00 Dollars + drier 60 dollars well yeah thats alot of cash I had saved up for injectors. I was wondering since Im going to take the car to a shop to have it re-charged can I install the new compressor and drier or do they have to do it. I asking because most shops charge by the hour. Also the autozoner recomended me to buy an expansion valve. I didnt have the cash at hand so I did not buy it buy what is it for? and is it a must?

What are you going to do if they tell you it's a 50¢ fuse plus the recharge... maybe it's your dash switch is nfg that's another $45-$70 you still have to spend. You ask if there is anything that can be done and then ignore some easy professional basic testing which may have saved you the $300-$400 more. I saw you were not not getting copetent replies other than replace this that and the other.

Don't take me too seriously, just feel like venting.

Cheers,
GTM