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A good canyon car ?

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whittleturlte

Probationary Member
8
0
Feb 23, 2016
SOUTH GATE, California
Hey guys I'm new here and i want to built my 1997 gst to a canyon car its bone stock all it has is a real hks blow off and 3inch straight pipe. I want a bit more power but something that will spool quick. I was looking into the t28 turbo but was wondering if that's enough or is there something better out there ?
 
Unless it's already been re-tuned for it, venting to the atmosphere is just going to cause problems with the air/fuel mix. You might look at using the wastegate from a 1g, which I read on here recently can handle something like 35psi, and you won't have crappy idle or get fuel cut as often. I can't count how many times I had my car with the tuning shop for one reason or another and there was somebody's Playstation BOV going "psshhhh-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t" while they tried to re-tune everything that governed the air/fuel mixture or hunt for boost leaks somewhere. I don't know about everyone here, but I know that the guy I used to go to for tuning always said steer clear of Garrett. Do a search on these forums for turbos; your best bet for your application is probably going to be a 16g. I'm planning to go to a 16g myself. For a bigger turbo, lots of people like the HX35. Try this thread here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/faster-spooling-turbo.457991/
 
I run a big-t28. Really depends on your goals of the car. I like the t28 but now I want more. Upgrading to a Evo 3 16g soon. Just go Evo 3 16g and call it a day. The turbo will take a lot to fully max out before you have to upgrade. You can run 10 psi on stock fuel system no problem.
 
I wouldn't waste time with the t28 like said above. Small 16g is your best bet. FWD is not very ideal for canyon driving however if you are dead set on it, I would throw some quality coilovers, strut bars, wheels/tires, and also look into some small weight reductions.

Also, before even thinking of going through any canyons, make sure your timing belt and components are up to date and suspension is tight.
 
Andrew brilliants eclipse started as a gst fwd.. And I think he is still running fwd in the WTAC. So The fwd should do pretty well in canyon driving, I'd prefer awd myself but I wouldn't count fwd out.. And I would just go for the evo 16g. The t-28 is a good turbo if you only want a little more power. I'd just go for the 16g it'll do what the t-28 does and more with very little spool sacrifice.
 
Suspension, wheels & tires, bracing, weight reduction, etc. The car probably makes enough power as is. With a proper set up it will be a ton more fun to carve corners with.

Link would help for throttle response and a bit more power, making the driving experience that much better.

With a 59/41 weight distribution it could lose a bit of weight up front.

I believe there is a group buy going right now for the 2g fender braces.

Edit: The group buy is closed, but keep an eye out.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-fender-braces-the-list-is-now-full.501112/#post-153573246
 
With a 59/41 weight distribution it could lose a bit of weight up front.

He's FWD so he will want a front weight bias.

Do what stocker said, I would keep the stock turbo for now. Carve canyons for a couple of months, learn the limitations of your car and yourself first before adding power. It will be more difficult to learn with more hp later down the line. It sounds boring but that's the truth, good fundamental driving is the best handling mod you can do.
 
My back roads gst setup is t28/ gab coilovers/ quaiffe diff and Aem big rotors with gsx calipers, works great for what it is although fwd have it issues (tq steer haha)
 
In my opinion, you may want to check out some of the local road course tracks. This would be a safe avenue to test the limits of your car and driving skill. Although it can be fun, you put others and yourself at risk on public roads in addition to breaking the law. In one track day, you will learn much more about your car's strengths and weaknesses in a safe environment as opposed to taking unnecessary risks on public roads.
 
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Unless it's already been re-tuned for it, venting to the atmosphere is just going to cause problems with the air/fuel mix. You might look at using the wastegate from a 1g, which I read on here recently can handle something like 35psi, and you won't have crappy idle or get fuel cut as often. I can't count how many times I had my car with the tuning shop for one reason or another and there was somebody's Playstation BOV going "psshhhh-t-t-t-t-t-t-t-t" while they tried to re-tune everything that governed the air/fuel mixture or hunt for boost leaks somewhere. I don't know about everyone here, but I know that the guy I used to go to for tuning always said steer clear of Garrett. Do a search on these forums for turbos; your best bet for your application is probably going to be a 16g. I'm planning to go to a 16g myself. For a bigger turbo, lots of people like the HX35. Try this thread here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/faster-spooling-turbo.457991/
Thanks for the advice and my car has no idea issues no leaks boosting at 12psi stock boost but when I went to recently smog my car my friend did say it had a tune
 
In my opinion, you may want to check out some of the local road course tracks. This would be a safe avenue to test the limits of your car and driving skill. Although it can be fun, you put others and yourself at risk on public roads in addition to breaking the law. In one track day, you will learn much more about your car's strengths and weaknesses in a safe environment as opposed to taking unnecessary risks on public roads.
Well I recently found my limits with the car when I ran it up hill with a hatch wrx sti but down down hill I was right behind his bumper
 
My back roads gst setup is t28/ gab coilovers/ quaiffe diff and Aem big rotors with gsx calipers, works great for what it is although fwd have it issues (tq steer haha)
How the coils so far ?? And for the t28 does it get on boost real fast ?
 
Suspension, wheels & tires, bracing, weight reduction, etc. The car probably makes enough power as is. With a proper set up it will be a ton more fun to carve corners with.

Link would help for throttle response and a bit more power, making the driving experience that much better.

With a 59/41 weight distribution it could lose a bit of weight up front.

I believe there is a group buy going right now for the 2g fender braces.

Edit: The group buy is closed, but keep an eye out.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-fender-braces-the-list-is-now-full.501112/#post-153573246
Suspension I was looking into just kyb shocks on tien lowering springs for weight reduction I got a carbon fiber hood reenforce crash bumper off no back seats LOL
 
If you are planning to do lots of uphill/downhill speed runs, you might want to look into an outlander or 3kgt big brake upgrade, or just break down and get the wilwoods. That last option is a bit pricey, but then again the convenience of a straight bolt-on balances that out. It is a bolt on right? I'm too cheap to have gotten the setup myself...
 
If you are planning to do lots of uphill/downhill speed runs, you might want to look into an outlander or 3kgt big brake upgrade, or just break down and get the wilwoods. That last option is a bit pricey, but then again the convenience of a straight bolt-on balances that out. It is a bolt on right? I'm too cheap to have gotten the setup myself...
Ahaha idk if its a bolt on and yes bit pricy.... But really outlanders ? I can use their brakes didn't know that just knew evos and 3kgt but with modifications
 
Ahaha idk if its a bolt on and yes bit pricy.... But really outlanders ? I can use their brakes didn't know that just knew evos and 3kgt but with modifications

Yes, but I think it needs modifications also...search forums for "outlander big brake upgrade" - feedback from the community seems to indicate this is one of the most cost-effective brake size upgrades. However, if what you really want is just sportier driving dynamics with less brake fade, you should be fine with just slotted rotors and quality pads (and good fluids!). Unless you are doing auto cross, you're probably not going to need to stand on the brakes hard enough that the big brakes will make a huge difference.
 
Yes, but I think it needs modifications also...search forums for "outlander big brake upgrade" - feedback from the community seems to indicate this is one of the most cost-effective brake size upgrades. However, if what you really want is just sportier driving dynamics with less brake fade, you should be fine with just slotted rotors and quality pads (and good fluids!). Unless you are doing auto cross, you're probably not going to need to stand on the brakes hard enough that the big brakes will make a huge difference.
Oh alright I'll look at the forms on that thanks !
 
Outlanders are a direct bolt on application. All you need is the caliper bracket from a 05-06 outlander and their rotors. I would suggest SS lines, a great brake pad such as a porter field or hawk and some good brake fluid.
 
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Outlanders are a direct bolt on application. All you need is the caliper bracket from a 05-06 outlander and their rotors. I would suggest SS lines, a great brake pad suck as a porter field or hawk and some good brake fluid.

The OP will also need the two piston calipers as well.
 
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