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99 Eclipse 16g Restomod Daily Driver

tunernewb92

10+ Year Contributor
341
60
Sep 10, 2008
North Canton, Ohio
My experience was that once and and then after the rebuild, my dummy light was leaking on the OFH. And once that started leaking the air running under the car pushes my oil all over the place. Also you can actually leak out of the front crankshaft gasket behind the crank timing gear without it getting the belt wet.
 

Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Finally Got all my running issues Straightened out yesterday. Got new coils on ebay. They ended up being a bit too wide for my coil bracket, and the screw pattern didn't match up, I tried to make it fit anyways.

Ran great, sort of. The tach wasn't working correctly, and I would have random stumbling issues. So I got another new set of coils on it. Fixed it all up. Put in some new plugs as well.

And a used Mass airflow. Hope this one lasts until I can get my wideband and start tuning on Ceddy. Goals are to move from ceddy and h8 ecu to tephra and evo 8 or 3rd gen M/T ecu. Then to Speed Density and some fuel mods.
 

Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Been staying real busy with my shop. Just want to thank the DSMLife for turning me into a mechanic. 10 years ago I bought my first turbo dsm, and now I run my own shop.

So I bought a 91 DA Integra 4 door as my first flip in a number of years. PO Claimed it needed a transmission. Well it runs and drives, so I knew that wasn't the case. Simply crimped the pins for the shift solenoids closed a bit to get better continuity through the connector. Shift problem is fixed. Now I need to find out why it wont shift into 4th. I also cleaned the inside of the car, it wasn't bad but needed a good vacuum and wipe down. Planning on putting some hubcaps on the steelies, fixing a few small dents, and putting a used side mirror on it, removing the pin stripe, and just a few odds and ends like that then sell it. Cost 400$, looks to be worth about $2,250 when all is said and done. So far my total cost has been 417$
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Yes its All stock, and in very good condition.
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I've also been doing a headgasket Job for a fellow DSMer. Currently waiting to get a head back from the machine shop for it.

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Did a few odds and ends for my car, gotta fill those down times waiting on parts.
Painted my clutch resevoir bracket.
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Working in that wire tuck when I can.
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Surprising amount of money to be made fixing carburetors these days. Rebuilding this Holley from a 78 ford 302. We also did a CJ7 I6 carb. And several small engine carbs recently.
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Love our job, some nights were not out of the shop till late-late
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Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Been a while since I updated. No pictures unfortunately. No longer running my own shop. Got screwed over by the guy I was renting from. He was sub letting which he never told us. He got evicted, and kept 8,200$ worth of rent I had paid through the end of the year. Well I am turning wrenches for toyota as a line tech now.

So since I last posted, I've had to replace the alternator, slave cylinder, master cylinder, ptu, and new tires. So just maintenance.

The 18 year old radiator is about to give out, so radiator will be next. I also found out cylinder 4 is quite a bit lower on compression than 3,2, and 1. So it looks like I will at least be replacing the almost 130k stock headgasket soon as well. Wet compression does not change, and cyl 4 is leaking down to cyl 1. So the mystery of my misfire may have been finally solved. Still these engines are beastly. We've put 13k on that engine this year since I got it from miller imports. Pretty sure the head gasket has been blown the whole time, and just now getting noticeable.
 

Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Well unfortunately the car is gonna need a new head. The one I have cracked, which pressurized the cooling system, and busted the 20 year old plastic tanks on the radiator.

So the car will be getting a new head, this time with cams and upgraded springs/retainers.

Going to go with a new 2 core alum radiator.

Also have the following to do list while the car is down.

Paint Fuel rail.
Clean/Polish Intake Manifold
Polish and Clear Headlights
Paint Shift Cable Cable Bracket
Replace Shift cable bushings.
Paint Brake Res Bracket
Delete the clutch fluid accumulator, replace with braided SS line.
Finish Wire Tuck and reloom.
Extend Fusebox wires
Relocate fusebox to glove box.
Swap to non cruise throttle cable.
Fill Unused engine bay bolt-holes.
Strip seam sealer where its sloppy.
Paint Engine bay.
Replace the upper portion of the core support as it is bent. May straighten.
Paint Bumper Support bracket
Sand & reclear side mirrors
Paint Roof Black.

Tear down so far:
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Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Little bit of progress. Got the fuel rail and regulator painted. Started working on polishing up the headlights again, and clearing them. Hopefully the clear lasts a bit longer. Tired of polishing them every couple months.

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Metal cast paint didn't turn out like it supposed to. To cold I guess. But it doesn't look terrible. Just doesn't give that anodized look its supposed to.

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Waiting for clear to dry on this one so it can be sanded and buffed.
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This one has been polished once, had a bunch of scratches still so I sanding it again to 3000. Gonna polish it again then hit it with clear.
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Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Intercooler pipes polished back up, couplers cleaned.
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Hit the bumper support with some nickel paint, and then dusted on the blue. Pic sucks, it just looks blue. But this thing had a lot of surface rust on it, some mild pitting. But it looks way better now.
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Stripping and removing rust spots from PS resevoir. Hit it with the nickel colored paint, and the cap got antique bronze paint. Will get a pic of that soon.

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Side mirrors turned out pretty terrible. I think it was too humid when I layed the clear on. Gonna try the sand and polish before I just sand them back to base coat and hit them with clear again.
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Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Was able to get the tiger stripes out of them. Still working on getting the spots out of the clear. But they are looking pretty good now. Will get some pics of them once I am finished polishing them.
 

Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Got my 97$ radiator in today. No gripes on fitment, quality is comparable to mishimoto for much less. (Fitment, Finish quality on polished surfaces, and fin density)
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Also got my head back on. car should be going back together in the next week since I am gonna have to put a trans in my truck. At least I did manage to strip the rust in my engine bay, and get it touched up. As well as painting some stuff that needed painted.
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Yep engine bay is a bit of a charcoal metallic color now. Looks so much better than the dirty and faded white with rust and battery acid accents.

I guess after I get the truck fixed its gonna end getting Suspension then Fuel mods then cams.
 
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Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Cams, Lifters, Rollers in, valve cover installed, t-stat housing installed, radiator installed. Turbo installed, downpipe/o2 housing hooked back up. Engine put into time.
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Also got the p/s pump hooked back up and ac lines hooked back up. Coilpack installed, and plug wires put back on. Fuel lines hooked back up. Its getting closer. I still need to remount the FMIC, installed the charge pipes and throttlebody. As well as replace the timing covers, water pump pullies, a/c tensioner, power steering pump bracket, p/s pump. and the 3 belts. (it got to late to take another picture)

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Then finish the wire tuck (may not be moving the fuse box until later now),

I will also be figuring out something for an overflow bottle, and probably making an new battery holder for the pc680. But I may go back to a full size battery.
 

Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Finally figured out my misfire issue. Cut out the wiring for both the coils, and ptu and redid it all.

Thing actually runs as it should now. So on to body work while I wait on my wideband. Have a set of PTE 680cc ready to go in once I have that and make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks. Not sure if I wanna get a heat sink and run in it off the o2 housing, or run it further downstream.

New Basket Filters, Have so many extra of these I just do them if I have the injectors out.
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And got my Service kit from PTE. There internet customer service sucks. But the actual company customer service guy was real nice got me take care of.
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Waiting on that wideband.
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Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Dunno where my last post went, but recently

Replaced all my 19 year old coolant hoses.
Replaced my Melted A/C Fan.
Installed 1g A/C fan on the pass side in place of the plastic 2g rad fan
Ditched the early 2000s era sex spec max panty drop low 3" drop springs with some Tein 1.3"/1.2" Drop springs. Installed some overstock shocks we had at work. Finally the car rides more like a car, and less like a bouncy castle.
Recharged the A/C
Filled several small dents/dings with bondo gold filler. and the glazing putty. Still undecided if I am going to fix the big dent as the hatch still doesn't line quite right, and I would have to send that to a body shop as its beyond my skills to fix. or if I should smash some stickers on there and not give a f*** while I look for an AWD shell to fix up and swap my engine/mods over too.
 

Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Finally sourced some stock Heatshields. Painted them with VHT header paint (aluminum color)
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Installed upper, rad needs to come out to install lower.
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Painting my wing.
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Still need to clean up the wiring for my fans, and find a new heat shield sleeve for the o2 sensor wires. I had this giant one I borrowed off GM power steering line. But I think a spark plug wire sleeve would fit better and not look as stupid.
 

chrysler kid

15+ Year Contributor
2,532
531
Dec 20, 2002
Mckinney, Texas
There is no factory heat shield sleeve, it's just the oxygen sensor covering stuff that comes on them. The little arms that hold the wire cover don't get hot enough to melt it.

Your radiator fans don't fit that radiator, there is too much air gap now. The fan is not able to suck the air through the radiator to cool the coolant. Easiest solution is to cut the tabs off the fan shrowd and use the radiator pull through ties to mount through the radiator core to the fan


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Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
1) The o2 sensor wires have a heat shield on them unless you bought a cheapo or one of the cut/splice ones. That rubber stuff is just rubber on the cheap ones. The one that was on there before it started detriorating was 3 layer stuff fabric/metal/fabric.
2) the fans work fine. Ideal? No. Gonna work until I find a shrouded fan that fits the radiator or give and buy a shrouded fal? Sure does. Car holds 200-205 even sitting in stop/go traffic now. Works way better than slim fans.
 

chrysler kid

15+ Year Contributor
2,532
531
Dec 20, 2002
Mckinney, Texas
1) The o2 sensor wires have a heat shield on them unless you bought a cheapo or one of the cut/splice ones. That rubber stuff is just rubber on the cheap ones. The one that was on there before it started detriorating was 3 layer stuff fabric/metal/fabric.

Lol. No they didnt

2) the fans work fine. Ideal? No. Gonna work until I find a shrouded fan that fits the radiator or give and buy a shrouded fal? Sure does. Car holds 200-205 even sitting in stop/go traffic now. Works way better than slim fans.


Glad you're happy with it. The fans and wiring under your hood seem to show off your attention to detail
 

Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Lol. No they didnt




Glad you're happy with it. The fans and wiring under your hood seem to show off your attention to detail

Alright, tuesday Ima go to work and start pulling o2 sensors out of boxes. I betcha the most, if not all of the exact fits on the shelf have a heat braided heat shield sleeve on them. I only sell a half dozen of them a week, on average. But whatever.

If it looks stupid and it works, its not stupid. Aside from that, you took an angle grinder to your fan then ziptied it on. At least I know I'm calling the kettle black.

Get back to me when you learn why you might want to spend more 18 cents on a timing belt kit.

Meanwhile Ima keep selling and installing my Bosch and NTK sensors with mysterious, just for cosmetic reasons sleeving on the wires.

By the way, those free fans, are still working just fine. Must be some mysterious force helping them deal with this Alabama Summer. But I guess just everything's hotter in texas. Probably wouldn't work to well in texas.
 
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Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Dunno why I am getting so bad at taking photos the older I get. But finally got my IAT Bung welded in, Map Installed, MTX-L Plus installed. Though I suspect I have a blown downpipe gasket as I am getting Mid 16-low17 AFRs at idle. So I will be replacing the downpipe gasket soon.

Swapped in my Injectors, got the scaling and latency dialed in. Added some tip-in, and then purchased Ceddy Mods SD/Big Maps. So I will be getting my ve dialed then going to SD.

Tucked the injector wires under the fuel rail while I had it off. Rerouted the side of the road install alternator charging wire through the core support so its not as noticeable. Still need to move the fuse box, or just finish the tuck. Need to order some more F6 sleeving so I can finish my fan install that offends mopar fanboy.

Wish I could fit my wideband sensor in the stock o2 so I wouldn't need to worry about downpipe gaskets. But it rubs on the water pipe.

Oh well, v-bands would be nice. Being able to weld would be nicer.
 
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Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Purchased and Flashed Ceddy Mods Big Maps on my car. Holy shit the difference it makes is night and day. If you are learning ECUFlash and have a handle on the basics, but don't really want to f*** around with rescaling your tables yet, then get the ceddy mods big maps. Just get it now. Scale your injectors, and fix the fuel maps (they are super rich) and flash it. Literally all I did was flash big maps with the same injector latecy/scaling and the same tip-in I had in my rom. along with some adjustment to the fuel maps so they weren't so pig rich and my car drives so much smoother, more responsive. I wouldn't say its making more power, but it feels like a new car.
 

Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
87
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Got a new o2 housing from Justin Whitesell. Well used, but he blasted it coated it, and chased the threads. Killer dealer for a it too. Gotta get porting it.

Also replaced my passenger side mirror, and hatch supports. No pics, phone is broke and metropcs is being shitty about fixing it. 6 weeks old and it just quit working in my pocket.
 
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