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98 GSX Time Trial build

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That's some nice damn driving there sir.🤘
Thank you man! Left a lot on the table especially into T1. Was trending faster on the next lap, but the fuse for the MFI relay popped. Not sure why. It was extraordinarily hot that weekend, so maybe that had something to do with it. But it’s still a win!
 
First off, that lap was awesome. Your car flies. Well done once again. What is the gauge on the top left of the center vent pod? I see it bouncing all over the place
 
First off, that lap was awesome. Your car flies. Well done once again. What is the gauge on the top left of the center vent pod? I see it bouncing all over the place
Thanks! So, that’s the oil pressure gauge. But before you freak out, the gauge is reading what the pick up is seeing. I have the accusump in the car so take what that gauge says with a grain of salt. Even with the moroso pan, with all the trap doors and stuff, still losing oil at the pickup. Something we’re going to work on during the off season.
 
Thanks! So, that’s the oil pressure gauge. But before you freak out, the gauge is reading what the pick up is seeing. I have the accusump in the car so take what that gauge says with a grain of salt. Even with the moroso pan, with all the trap doors and stuff, still losing oil at the pickup. Something we’re going to work on during the off season.
Thats what I thought it was. I too am wanting to figure out an oil pan that will keep the oil where it belongs. I am getting a buschur modified 6 bolt oil pan so I at least have something for now.
 
Thats what I thought it was. I too am wanting to figure out an oil pan that will keep the oil where it belongs. I am getting a buschur modified 6 bolt oil pan so I at least have something for now.
The accusump was by far the best investment in engine longevity I made. No more dry starts and oil pressure being fed to the motor at all times, regardless of what’s happening in the pan. I want to do the Frontline oil pump setup, and that’ll be the last step before going full dry sump.
 
More pics:
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My little work station that I made on the trailer in the garage. Some stuff is coming in as far as materials for the new harness. Just about done labeling and depinning everything I’m not going to use. Should keep the harness size down. I’m very curious to see the weight savings. I have a complete factory harness that I’ll do a comparison with when my harness is done. Doing a little bit everyday.
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Plugging away on my harness. This being my first foray into a motorsport style harness, I’m going to refrain from doing the concentric twisting, potting sensors and the raychem 25 sheathing. To ease assembly, I also decided that to keep me from losing my mind entirely, I’m going to use the factory wiring/color coding for the harness. I know I should be using Tefzel and all the fancy stuff, but I just don’t have the budget right now for spools. So, for this first time harness, the factory wiring is the call from my point of view. I’ve got the injector leads finished, and I just finished the ECT lead as well. My big issue is trying to decide what to do with the shielded wire for the knock sensor. As we all know, the knock sensor lead is super long, so my idea is to depin the connectors and run them through the bulkhead on both sides, then just shorten the ECU side in the cabin. I’m kind of at a stopping point until I figure that out. Meanwhile, I started drawing out all the wiring schematics for the new harness with all the powers and grounds, splices and ideas on how to run the harness. I moved my ECT to the backside of the tstat housing to help aid in strain relief and keep a cleaner appearance. Really trying to put forth my absolute best effort to get this done properly. Any ideas/input would be welcome.
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A bit of a bad update. Lost our secondary sponsor today. They just got hit hard with the way the economy is, and had to pull out. Sucks. Our annual budget is taking a hit and a lot of the stuff I wanted to do is off the table now. Not happy, but when one door closes, another one opens right? Hopefully we can find a secondary sponsor by next season.
 
Yeah the service loops stay in the harness to act as strain relief. And also allows for having a length of wire available if any repairs need to be made.

I understand what you are aiming at but I would highly recommend you do not leave those loops in the harness. You are inducing chaffing into the harness wires as well as TOO much relief. Plus there is no way to cover the plug for moisture protection. This build up would not meet military OR aviation mil spec build ups standards. As far as repairs etc there are standards for that as well as far as a splice down line and others. I know it sounds silly but just google Mil Spec Harness or Ohm Racing build ups and you will never see anything like these pig tails. Just my input and advice since you asked for it earlier LOL.
 
I understand what you are aiming at but I would highly recommend you do not leave those loops in the harness. You are inducing chaffing into the harness wires as well as TOO much relief. Plus there is no way to cover the plug for moisture protection. This build up would not meet military OR aviation mil spec build ups standards. As far as repairs etc there are standards for that as well as far as a splice down line and others. I know it sounds silly but just google Mil Spec Harness or Ohm Racing build ups and you will never see anything like these pig tails. Just my input and advice since you asked for it earlier LOL.
Most motorsport harnesses do have these, you just can't see them because they are covered. And OHM Racing uses service loops in their harnesses too.

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Most motorsport harnesses do have these, you just can't see them because they are covered. And OHM Racing uses service loops in their harnesses too.

View attachment 678115

View attachment 678114


Interesting, yeah I looked up a few more auto motorsports harnesses and did see they do something similar as well... I have absolutely no idea why they do this and could not find anything supporting it on any websites either other than its "easier" in the future LOL. Learned something new today that is for sure... I personally would never do anything like this and there is a reason when quality is needed over "easier" it is not done that way but, hey, that is just me. Build it once the correct way and you would never need to re-pin it from the damage these tight bends can induce. Glad this was brought up though as I had no idea automotive mil spec had deviated so much from actual design of these connectors and wires.
 
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