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97 eclipse

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Looks like about a gallon or two left in the tank. I’m sure I’ve ran it that low a few times in my 2g and I’ve never had issues from that. Have you ran those injectors before? Maybe they flow different. They’re low impedance injectors. Were the ones you were running the same shape? High impedance injectors are much narrower.
Sorry for the short answer man i was at work. I tested them out. The car feels normal until moderate load is used. The other injectors were good for a bit then they began leaking, 3 of them :banghead:
Saving money buying refurbished injectors really screwed me. I believe low impudence is oem so i went with that type of injector. This feels familiar though, the last time it felt like this was much worse but identical effect. I hit a big square cut from the road ripped the intercooler nearly in half. Mounted the IC higher this time, hard lesson to learn. Car could barely do 20mph on the way home. Really need to boost leak test again.
 
Got around to doing the BLT and found an air leak in a unusual spot thats never happened. The braided tube from bov pipe to the tb elbow was leaking significantly. Enough to disturb the peak vacuum level and quickly lose boost. Couldn't test drive got to work and the fuel pump is still not mounted hopefully the next test drive presents good results
 
I'm seriously considering a strange swap for my interior. I really like this steering wheel and would feel very right having it in the cockpit.
Capture+_2021-11-23-23-21-42.png
The 1gs have an awesome steering when, i loath the factory 2g steering wheel it is just atrocious.
 
Not sure on a 2g. 1g you have to weld the collar from a 1g steering wheel. So cut and weld. You can find them for $150-$1100. Yeah that’s not a typo LOL
Only so many evo wheels, they seem rare enough to find for sale let alone one being parted out. I literally have never seen one in a junkyard and super rare for all car lots too. Wish i could have gotten the one i test drove this spring. All thanks to covid creating financial issues for everyone:toobad: Got a 4 cylinder Camry instead, o'well.
 
Lifters are really noisy. Car idles really well, rap the gas peddle and it will behave ok but the revs drop and begin goes up hangs around 1350 for a bit then begins to stall and drops idle to around 450 for 20 seconds or so. I don't think my lifters were primed correctly and they are a bit on the squishy side and the valves aren't being opened enough. Does this sound plausible? I will be removing the VC tonight after the kids lay down. Hope this is the issue. The idle is super smooth so i don't think I damaged the cams or valves.
 
The noise would usually be settled down itself shortly, if the HLAs are working.
They don't quiet down. They are 3g lifters from STM and are supposed to be super quiet. I also suspect a damaged crank sensor. I put spacers on it last time and didn't reinstall them. Can it get damaged in a way that causes intermittent misfires from brief losses of signal from the magnet?
 
They don't quiet down. They are 3g lifters from STM and are supposed to be super quiet. I also suspect a damaged crank sensor. I put spacers on it last time and didn't reinstall them. Can it get damaged in a way that causes intermittent misfires from brief losses of signal from the magnet?
How long have you driven the car since you installed the new lifters?
 
Just up and down my road a few times about 3 to 4 miles. I don't daily drive it, its in the garage alot. I have been too afraid to get a long distance from the house.
 
How long have you driven the car since you installed the new lifters?
I've had these lifters in and out twice thus far. I put them in the first time in march. Ran the car blew the HG. Then did all the work ive been posting. The only thing i changed when reassembling this time was after i bled the lifters i installed them in the squishy state. Was that the wrong way or does it matter if you soak them in oil to stiffen them up?
 
Corrected my mistake, now i feel it will be right again. Rotating the motor i could see the lifters had no back bone and the valves weren't opening enough mostly on the exhaust cam. Oil is going to have to be changed again 3rd times a charm apparently. Got the 3g's prepping for later tonight.
20211125_133941.jpg
 
I've had these lifters in and out twice thus far. I put them in the first time in march. Ran the car blew the HG. Then did all the work ive been posting. The only thing i changed when reassembling this time was after i bled the lifters i installed them in the squishy state. Was that the wrong way or does it matter if you soak them in oil to stiffen them up?
If the lifters have some air in, sometimes it would take some hours to some days to be settled down.
 
If the lifters have some air in, sometimes it would take some hours to some days to be settled down.
Thank you Hiroshi I just purged them really good under oil about 3 minutes a piece. I will take your advice I know better than not to LOL. They are still submerged and I'll be patient and let them fully prime for a few days. I'm just glad the leak down test was good along with compression test. I still thing my coil transistor is acting goofy but I'm not 100% on that.
 
This doesn't look quite TDC could be an optical illusion. Adjustment gear marks 0° both and primary marks perfectly adjacent. Issue i see is the dowel pins don't seem to be at 12 o'clock.
20211201_232623.jpg
 
Yeah hard to tell. As long as the dowels are upwards and the marks are lined up, you should be fine. When you remove the cam lock tool, put a flat head through the teeth to make sure it’s lined up with the top of the head. I’ve had it off a tooth on both cams so I do that every time from now on.
 
Yeah hard to tell. As long as the dowels are upwards and the marks are lined up, you should be fine. When you remove the cam lock tool, put a flat head through the teeth to make sure it’s lined up with the top of the head. I’ve had it off a tooth on both cams so I do that every time from now on.
Thank you I sure will
 
This doesn't look quite TDC could be an optical illusion. Adjustment gear marks 0° both and primary marks perfectly adjacent. Issue i see is the dowel pins don't seem to be at 12 o'clock.
View attachment 646469
That's an optical illusion. Your eyes are tricked by the degree center line (Zero degree line) and the gear design. We don't use that degree center line on DSM to set the timing belt, that's for EVO4~9. This is the reason why I recommend to use a cam gear lock for who have these HKS cam gears, because you could insert the gear lock means the dowel pins are automatically at 12 o'clock. In case if the dowel pins or the horizon marks on the gears are off even a tiny bit, you wouldn't be able to insert it.
 
That makes so much sense it alludes to that in the instructions on the difference of the later evo 4g63 engines but i didn't quite understand what that meant till now. Is this lock good enough or should i have gotten the bigger one? I think i saw two different styles for sale on STM.
20211201_232623.jpg
 
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That makes so much sense it alludes to that in the instructions on the difference of the later evo 4g63 engines but i didn't quite understand what that meant till now. Is this lock good enough or should i have gotten the bigger one? I think i saw two different styles for sale on STM.
View attachment 646552
That lock is good enough. Just focus to the horizontal timing marks in the small window. If those marks are not lined up properly even a few degree off, you can't insert that lock. And if one tooth off, that would obviously be wrong, so you won't make that mistake.
If you can insert the lock, that meant the horizon marks are lined up properly, and that means the dowels are at the right position as long as if the cams are for the early 4g63.
HKS cam gears used to have the dowel pin position separately between the early 4g63 and the late 4g63, like FIdanza gears. I don't know why they decide to go this way. Actually this is making many people confused.
 
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