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97 eclipse

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Doing research on some injectors donated to me. One side says 929 Denso and the other is 195500-0830. Not sure if these are any good.
They are claimed 1000cc but i can't locate that information.
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195500-0830 shows the previous model Sard 700cc injectors. The color should be light blue.
Oh cool guess they aren't as good as my currents. Guess i could hang on to them. I did a home flow test and they seem to function normally, pretty good spray pattern too. Only issue is two of them have broken pintol caps. Should be able to get new caps. I was hoping they were 1000cc.
 
Noticed with the gasket on the manifold that the ports weren't bored quited big enough a goof on my part. Trimmed about 2mm off each each port. Probably wont get any noticeable power but its better than bottle necking directly at the head exit.
 

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All finished with the whole inside of the manifold smoothed to a glass smooth reflective surface. It took forever but I think this will actually result in improved power and turbo response and reduced lag. Any amount is a win for me.
If you see this Tony i totally ripped off your idea. If you see gold down there its some heat shield material on the coolant pump main feed pipe LOL
That was just way too good of an idea to not include on the engine setup.:thumb:

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In my experience putting the head on i always have the intake attatched due to the difficulty of installing it in the bay. My stuff is rather heavy and i am always scared of grooving the fresh head deck. To battle this I'm trying something new. I simply put eclectical tape caps on the tops of the Hstuds. I put a tail on the end for extra cushion and to pull out after the head is bedded.
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Not sure if anyone else has done this but i mocked up the head to work on the FPR fitment and tape came out good and bumping the studs didn't damage the deck. Kind of feels like a win.
 
I've wondered but never looked much for the story behind Mitsubishi long life coolant. I switched to this when i bought it And flushed the rad. Does any one else use this? Possibly doesn't matter what it is and there are other equivalents out there.
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I use off the shelf coolant that costs $12 and it's rated at 10 years or 150k miles. I'd never use it that long of course, but my point is that stuff is rated at the same amount if not more than the OEM stuff. I mean my OEM Subaru coolant was rated at 100k miles so I flushed the system while I had the engine out and switched over to my off the shelf stuff. Subaru wanted $22 for the stuff rated at 100k miles. Just my 2 cents and experiences though.
 
Thats good to know that will save some money when i fill the fluids once i reasemble the motor. Do you think that coolant would be ok mixing with one of the other brands? I'm thinking being green it would just be the same, could be wrong though.
:hmm:
 
Been wanting to do the same. But I don’t have link so I don’t want to ride around with the check engine light. One day I will get to that but over all was it hard to get rid of all the vacuum lines and what not?
 
Not really i started with the coal can traced it back to the mani and did a few bypasses. My set up is a little weird. I have an NA 4g63 TB, i think it has the biggest ID of all the factory TB's, a 1g intake manifold bored on inlet and all four ports and a 2g head ported to match. I run an old stand alone so no CEL's for me. I know how to use it really well but link would be way easier so i think sometime i will get link too
 
Another neat thing on my set up is this dial. I can have 3 separate tunes loaded up and switch between them, you just turn to the number you want. I run a fuel cut on them 1 to 3 and goes 18psi, 21psi, and 24psi. There are alot of other things in each tune such as fuel mapping, and rev cap.
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Another neat thing on my set up is this dial. I can have 3 separate tunes loaded up and switch between them, you just turn to the number you want. I run a fuel cut on them 1 to 3 and goes 18psi, 21psi, and 24psi. There are alot of other things in each tune such as fuel mapping, and rev cap.
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Man I like that set up. I’m not to sure how a stand alone works. R they any easier then the link?
 
No they are a pain LOL. My stuff is so outdated its comedic. Its wired onto the car so hard i have no clue how to go to stock and equip link. The stand alone was done by some guy in Florida that owned speed shop in the early 2000's I've researched my tuning equipment for the past 3 years and ive pretty much got it down. There are a ton of other features i haven't figured out though like the nitrous injection program and few other things. I have to use an older computer to run the programimg software on. It would just be so much easier with link from the videos ive watched on it.
 
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My home made boost leak tester. The silver cap is an old AGP wastegate actuator that went bad on my old neon srt4. 3" to 2" coupler, liquid pressure gauge, air T, some 1/4 vibrant vac line, and an air gun fitting to control how much air can enter the system.
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