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97 eclipse

JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
1,005
697
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
Hopefully the wire colors are visible enough. Looking at a wire list on the internet i think maybe injector 2 amd 3 should be swapped.
 

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pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
7,999
2,605
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
Dont ya hate forgetting simple things? Battery...dead as a door nail. Its charging though...whats another few hours. Been down over two months now or is it three. I think most of us forget how long our cars are down 🤣

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I want that valve cover
 

TK's9d2TSi

Supporting Member
6,303
3,294
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
In cylinder #1 green and red/green
#2 green/yellow and red green
#3 yellow/black and green/black.
#4 green and red
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TK's9d2TSi

Supporting Member
6,303
3,294
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
Lol. Here’s the entire pin out if you need it.


I’m thinking that I too swapped 2&3 instead of 3&4 when I put my engine back together. I didn’t drive it but idle was fine, just had a longer crank. Think it’s because there’s fuel behind the closed valve so it sucks it in during the intake stroke. I’d imagine that driving it would be rough though.
 

JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
1,005
697
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
You might want to get your brain check 😂. Jk buddy
Well i had more than one leak. I had a 90° an fitting that failed on the bottom of the Aeromotive FPR, the bottom o-ring on injector 3. They had nothing to do with my idle issue though. I finally pulled a cel and the ISC is malfunctioning. I'm kind of sick of working on it for now but will pick back up after decide to swap the ISC i got like 3 of those laying around LOL.
 

JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
1,005
697
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
I have a brand new 2g isc you can have it. They sent me the wrong one but it’s aftermarket. Pm me if you want it
I appreciate it Tony. It should be ok i tried the others out on the car last year and they seem to work good but if they don't its probably wiring stuff and thats no picnic. I thought i had a spare coil resistor pack but someone looked at it and noticed it said Mitsubushi on it LOL. No way I'm trying that guy out
 

JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
1,005
697
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
Lets try to be gentle on this next one...
I pride myself on honesty and this one i feel i should post because is so if anyone else does this they know what will happen.
I have Both the FIAV block off plate and bypass plate. I bought the block plate by accident so i ordered the other. I rebuilt the TB again while rebuilding the head and decking the engine surfaces. I had the plates together in one area along with the hardware. I ended up installing the block off plate....
:banghead:
If you do this without compensation via tuning your car will not idle its just like deleting both ISC and FIAV. The bypass plate is now in and the idle is now normal and i cleared the cel. I need to stop working on stuff all the way to 4am on my projects. I have a lot of stamina but apparently my brain gets funky when i work for too long. I need to start taking breaks.

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I run a stand alone and it cannot make corrections for neither the ISC or FIAV.
 

JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
1,005
697
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
Doing some easy stuff. Had a dead headlight and grabbed a pair to throw in. They are just a standard halogen nothing fancy, I tend to save the big expenses for engine upgrades and general maintenance.
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The charge system is behaving funny and dropping voltage after warm up. The charge plumets after a high rev to below 11v. From what i can tell its an issue with my referbished alternator, so thats the next on the to do list. I think i may need a heavier duty alt to feed all the demand she seems to require.
The cooling system flush went good and i got it to burp real good and got all the air out of the plumbing. With all the head work done and oil temperature went from an average of 204°F to new peak of 168°F. As a passive result the oil pressure seems to balance a few pounds higher and is more consistent across all driving ranges.
 
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