97 Eclipse Spyder GS daily driver

[DKJson2112]

My brother used to drive the Eclipse I own now. One day he started it up, and started backing out of the driveway, and the engine just stopped working. It never did start again. It sat for 2 years in our garage until I was old enough to drive it. I went through so may headaches replacing parts on the car trying to figure out what was wrong with it. It turns out that the person that sold it to him at 120,000 miles had never had the timing belt changed. It broke at 130,000 miles. When I found that out, I was pissed!!! Fortunately the car was only idling when it broke. If he was driving it, the engine would have been toast. It was hell trying to get it timed right. I was learning as I went. Car runs perfect now, though. Learn from me, though. The timing belt is important. Don't neglect it. Aaaaaanyways, I want to tune it up to where it's a really smooth, good running car. I've already changed all of the belts, replaced the fuel pump, changed the oil and filter, treated the fuel system, changed and gaped the spark plugs, and cleaned all of the connectors. Any suggestion on what I can do to clean the engine or parts to replace to make it a better daily driver?

 

[Night devil]

Good to hear the car is running, I would run a compression test and see the condition of the motor.

 

[2GbGSXbeast]

Good to hear the car is running, I would run a compression test and see the condition of the motor.

In addition I would change the plug wires, fuel filter, check the brakes and suspension, and check the level and condition of all of the other fluids.

 

[DKJson2112]

Thanks. I have a compression test gauge at my house. My dad is the one at my house that knows the most about cars, but he's been gone lately. Is that something that would be safe for me to try on my own if I've never done it before? I mean, I'm not an idiot when it comes to cars or anything. I'm just still learning. I managed to change the timing belt without an help. I already just replaced the fuel pump. Are there any parts I could put on it to get better gas mileage? Would a new air intake be a good investment, or is it just pointless if I'm not going to be doing any racing with it? Thanks for the replies!

 

[2gSpyder4g64]

Doing the compression test is really easy no need to worry, doing the timing and fuel pump its harder, so you'll be fine. I also got a 97 spyder as a daily driver 132k miles on the clock , its been a really fun car so far.

you might want to check your oxigen sensors if you feel it uses too much gas, and on the intake thing, let me tell you its a total waste of cash, you wont feel the diference at all, instead i would use that to change the shocks, bushings, or the motor mounts if they are worn out, that will make the car alot smoother and nicer for daily driving .

 

[Night devil]

I totally agree with 2gspyder4g64 on the intake filter.

Make sure you change all your fluids also, for better maintance.

 

[DKJson2112]

Doing the compression test is really easy no need to worry, doing the timing and fuel pump its harder, so you'll be fine. I also got a 97 spyder as a daily driver 132k miles on the clock , its been a really fun car so far.

you might want to check your oxigen sensors if you feel it uses too much gas, and on the intake thing, let me tell you its a total waste of cash, you wont feel the diference at all, instead i would use that to change the shocks, bushings, or the motor mounts if they are worn out, that will make the car a lot smoother and nicer for daily driving .

Thanks for the info. I didn't think it was something that would be worth my money. The shocks definitely need to be changed. I just looked at the motor mounts. The rubber is pretty bad. I guess I should replace those. As for the fluids, I changed the oil and added some motor honey in with it and I filled up the tank and added fuel system treatment to clean up any gunk from it sitting for so long. I got 2 check engine light readings. One was P0505 for the IAC and the other was P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction?? Anybody had any problems with these or know what to do about them?

 

[WES_393]

Like 2gSpyder mentioned, it would be good to check/replace the motor mounts, especially the front/rear roll stops. The 4g64 makes a healthy amount of low-end torque so the roll stops can take a real beating.

If the lifters are ticking, replace them ASAP. Unlike the 4g63, your lifters contact the valves directly and can damage the valve stem ends if the ticking is ignored. It's not difficult to change them and doesn't even require you to touch the timing components.

And now would be a good time to replace the transmission oil. If it's a manual, I'd suggest nothing but Mitsubishi gear oil. It's only around $10/Quart at most Mitsu dealers.

Otherwise keep it as stock as possible. Of course replace anything that wears out, but only with premium quality OEM parts. My Spyder GS has been the most reliable and economical car I've ever owned and it's bone stock. It rarely asks for more than gas and oil, can easily get 25mpg if driven properly, and has taken 140k miles of redline shifts and below freezing temps. That reliability is almost always shot to hell when "performance" parts are thrown in the mix.

 

[DKJson2112]

Like 2gSpyder mentioned, it would be good to check/replace the motor mounts, especially the front/rear roll stops. The 4g64 makes a healthy amount of low-end torque so the roll stops can take a real beating.

If the lifters are ticking, replace them ASAP. Unlike the 4g63, your lifters contact the valves directly and can damage the valve stem ends if the ticking is ignored. It's not difficult to change them and doesn't even require you to touch the timing components.

And now would be a good time to replace the transmission oil. If it's a manual, I'd suggest nothing but Mitsubishi gear oil. It's only around $10/Quart at most Mitsu dealers.

Otherwise keep it as stock as possible. Of course replace anything that wears out, but only with premium quality OEM parts. My Spyder GS has been the most reliable and economical car I've ever owned and it's bone stock. It rarely asks for more than gas and oil, can easily get 25mpg if driven properly, and has taken 140k miles of redline shifts and below freezing temps. That reliability is almost always shot to hell when "performance" parts are thrown in the mix.

How much does it generally cost to replace the lifters? I don't think I have any "ticking" issues. And I still need to know about the check engine light problems. Could it mean that the sensors just need to be cleaned, or will I have to replace the parts? I also have a slight leaking problem with the convertible top. Anybody else have to deal with this?

Also, does anybody have any recommendations on what kind of tires I should get? Best bang for my teenage low budget buck? The tires look a little dry rotted, and I don't want to take any chances.

 

[WES_393]

The lifters are around $100 depending on where you get them. I would at least check them since the timing belt broke, but if they're not making noise or blown out then I wouldn't replace them.

The IAC code could be from a vacuum leak, so check for those. Hopefully it's not the actual IAC since that's basically the entire lower portion of the throttle body.

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For the EGR code, first make sure the EGR valve is still there and not just a blockoff plate. Then check the vacuum line running to the EGR valve. If everything looks good and the code comes back, then try removing the EGR and cleaning it with some carb cleaner.

And if the top leaks, the canvas likely needs to be replaced. It's not uncommon for a convertible top to leak after 10+ years.

 

[DKJson2112]

What about the tires?