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2G 96 GST Help

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turbotalon_

15+ Year Contributor
70
2
Dec 6, 2005
San Leandro, California
Alright I'm the second owner of a nice 96 GST, 101k miles, 5spd, no sunroof.

It's been parked for 4 years and I'm having issues. I put it under a new cover a year ago and the thing just... Dust everywhere. Some mold inside now. I feel like a horrible steward of this mostly stock car. I'm thinking about getting it fixed up re-registered, t-28. But to tow/flush/etc is $$$$.

Wondering what the Bay community is like. I can't bring myself to sell it. I had a 91 240sx one owner car I crashed into a hill avoiding a deer and even in the 2000s I couldn't find a replacement.

Replacing these cars today is crazy too.
 
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So what are you asking for specifically? Help and ideas on mitigating the mold and neglect effects? Price point for your car?

Bueller? Bueller?
 
So what are you asking for specifically? Help and ideas on mitigating the mold and neglect effects? Price point for your car?

Bueller? Bueller?
Man it's been a downer. The mold mostly vacuumed away (I wore a mask) and then leather cleaner and conditioner made things look a lot better.

I pretty much have no car repair stuff so I'm trying to figure out if it's worth investing and trying to fix or figuring out how to get rid of it. It would have to be towed so maybe just donate it for a tax break?

Biggest problems:
1) Clutch has return spring pressure but immediately falls to the floor and sticks. It has done this before after sitting for long periods of time but usually came back after the car ran. The reservoir is full and I can't see any leaks or loose parts from the top of the engine bay. No fluid on the ground or anything.

2) The battery has 0V so that definitely needs to be replaced. Last time running was May 2021. I jumped it with my other car and it started up right away with smooth idle. No smoke at all.

3) The engine oil is probably from 2015. I just bought an extractor (don't have jack/stands/etc) and was going to at least replace the oil (the filter I can reach with the car on the ground but probably can't torque enough to get off). Temporary fix but better than 7 year old oil?

4) There is half a tank of gas thats probably from 2018. But also mixed with older gas. I drove the car maybe 500 miles between 2015 and parking it in 2018.

5) Rust/bubbling at the bottom of the rear window.

6) Paint is peeling/teardrops all over. Some rust spots.

I live in California and SMOG came up in 2018. I drived it so little I parked it and forgot about it. SMOG is crazy. Filter on PCV=fail. Boost gauge tapped into vac=fail. CAT=fail because CARB changed their numbering system. It's supposed to be grandfathered and I even had a 2005 receipt for it but nope! Didn't have proof of installation just purchase.

I'm really not sure what's next. A jack, jackstands, battery, and clutch bleeder is probably around $500 total but I have no idea what I'm doing 😀
 
If youre asking if there is a local group of people that will come over to your house and help you work on the car, no you will not find that on this website

If you want to be "that car guy" this website is perfect for you. You can find wiring diagrams, repair info and more for free, but you will have to work for it.

The clutch pedal issue is most likely the clutch master cylinder, but you should also replaced the slave cylinder since at his age both of the rubber pieces in both items typically get heavily worn out and leak.
 
Ultimately you have to decide if you can and want to spend the time and money to fix the car and keep it going. If you "have no idea what [you] are doing" then you also need to consider the investment in time, tools, frustration, and patience as you learn. No easy feat.

We are here to provide guidance and encouragement, as well as answers,and are happy to do it. But before you buy a single wrench decide if you are okay with the investment.

If the ultimate answer is "no," that is honorable and okay. My advice then is to sell the car, preferably to someone on here who will take care of it. Don't donate for a tax write-off as you won't get much for the car and it might get junked.

If the answer is "yes," then here is some info on the problems you listed:

1) Chrysler Kid answered that one.

2) The battery - you got that one.

3) 2015 engine oil - definitely should replace it. Engine oil will trap and suspend combustion gasses that get past the rings, plus moisture and dust and stuff, all of which can make the oil slightly acidic. Old oil is bad, so replacing it is a necessary thing.

4) 2018 gas - fuel will evaporate over time and its contents will separate out. I've had and run gas that is several years old but it is not good for the injectors and can cause more problems and cost more than running good fuel. I would not chance it but would drop the tank and clean it, or at least plan on siphoning out the old gas entirely and running 1/4 - 1/3 of a tank for several trips to the gas station to "clean" the tank of the old fuel residue.

5) Rust/bubbling at the bottom of the rear window - nothing to do here but remove the glass and repair the rust issues.

6) Paint is peeling/teardrops all over. Some rust spots - a few options with this one:
A. Let it go.
B. Rattle can it yourself
C. Spray it yourself right
D. Clean and prep the surface then wrap the car in vinyl
E. Have the car professionally painted in Cali (better have deep pockets as the environmental fees and requirements are hell as I hear it. Water based paints are mandatory and labor is $$$$)
F. Have the car painted in another state with more lenient requirements (can use oil-based paints and labor is cheaper)
 
Ok so the weather here was cold and rainy forever and I had some long work trips so I went MIA. It's getting warmer and dry so I'm starting to plan things out.

I had a AAA battery. They came out and replaced it and after 4 years of siting the car fired in about 10 seconds. They had me turn it off and start it again... NOTHING. They took the battery and left.

I went and bought a battery. Same issues. Pulled the clutch switch, fired right up. Getting that switch really made me feel my age!! Car runs really smooth and always fires. I know this is bad but I spent hours trying to figure out how to get rid of gas in CA and having the car burn it is really my only option. I'm at a quarter tank.

I bought a 5gal gas can and will go get some fresh fuel to mix in. I'm also getting ready to swap the oil. I have everything I need.

I lifted it up a little earlier just to make sure my jack worked and I knew what I was doing 😅

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I'm trying to source OEM master/slave. Given the car has two owners and is still on 100k I'd like to stick with OEM if possible. I'm going to attempt to bleed it first, just in case.

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Finally got a break from work and travel. I'm replacing the clutch master and slave and line. Went back to Extreme PSI who I bought from 15 years ago and got the clutch line kit. I was trying to trace the stock line and couldn't believe how complicated it is. Before unbolting anything I bled the clutch and went through almost a full (small) bottle of fluid with no pressure still. One thing I found hard to find was info on the rear jack point. There is a plate under the rear tub and it seems sketchy AF but it works. Certain manuals show it but I'm including a pic to show it works. No damage after. Also a pic of the weird clutch line setup. Waiting on a few tools before I do the master. I'm also going to pull the seat out cuz I'm fat and old and getting under the dash SUCKS.

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Forgot to add I added octane booster/stabilizer and let the car burn the old gas at idle till I was below 1/4 tank. I added 4gal of fresh gas. There is some smoke from the exhaust but until I get the car on the road and under load I'm ignoring it.

 
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I've heard/read that a lot of folks just ditch the accumulator when running the ss braided line from the master to the slave. That's what I plan to do as well (auto --> manual swap).

Smoke - blue (oil). Yeah... I'd address the other woes first too. Probably will need to do compression/leak down tests to determine the cause

Underbelly looks amazingly clean! I'm jealous. My car looked like the po thought oil was a cheap undercoating alternative. WTF
 
Don't lift the rear under that tub (where your jack is in the pic). It will cause damage. Instead get a piece of hardwood (I use a 9 x 3 x 1 piece) and place that under that rear cross member (between the rear wheels across it's 2 edges) with the jack under it. If you can't get hardwood then use softwood but know that it will start crushing when used where things are way heavier like in the front.
 
What jack do you have? It's reinforced and where the factory manual shows to jack the car up from. I researched a lot because my jack wouldn't reach the suspension point you're talking about.
 
I've heard/read that a lot of folks just ditch the accumulator when running the ss braided line from the master to the slave. That's what I plan to do as well (auto --> manual swap).

Smoke - blue (oil). Yeah... I'd address the other woes first too. Probably will need to do compression/leak down tests to determine the cause

Underbelly looks amazingly clean! I'm jealous. My car looked like the po thought oil was a cheap undercoating alternative. WTF
Yea the stock setup seems way too complicated and makes troubleshooting awful. I need to figure out how I'm going to run the line but like the idea of it being simpler. The car is pretty clean except for spider webs and cat hair. I'm the second owner and it's always lived in Cali. I got it completely stock so no weird stuff. I saw many many many cars (this was early 2000s) that had been absolutely hacked up. Thankfully I had patience in my search.
 
Don't lift the rear under that tub (where your jack is in the pic). It will cause damage. Instead get a piece of hardwood (I use a 9 x 3 x 1 piece) and place that under that rear cross member (between the rear wheels across it's 2 edges) with the jack under it. If you can't get hardwood then use softwood but know that it will start crushing when used where things are way heavier like in the front.
See above. I didn't quote you right sorry.
 
with the stainless hard line, I just left the stock one there and ran the braided line under the intake manifold, under the battery, under the fuse box, and directly to the slave. It didn't feel productive to dis-assemble half the engine bay to remove a line no one will ever see.

Smoking out of the tailpipe isnt immediately suspicious, worry about other things first, get it running to a point that its running good and if it still smokes we can assess the problem. Most likely the valve stem seals are worn and dried out and need to be replaced. This can be done when you do the timing belt, its a tricky job but if you can wrap your head around the timing belt job its just 16 extra steps after you remove the camshafts 🤣
 
with the stainless hard line, I just left the stock one there and ran the braided line under the intake manifold, under the battery, under the fuse box, and directly to the slave. It didn't feel productive to dis-assemble half the engine bay to remove a line no one will ever see.

Smoking out of the tailpipe isnt immediately suspicious, worry about other things first, get it running to a point that its running good and if it still smokes we can assess the problem. Most likely the valve stem seals are worn and dried out and need to be replaced. This can be done when you do the timing belt, its a tricky job but if you can wrap your head around the timing belt job its just 16 extra steps after you remove the camshafts 🤣
Timing belt?!? I've been at 100k since 2012 so it probably will need one. That's absolutely terrifying though.

The tools that went MIA in shipping for the last week finally showed up so I should be ready to finish this weekend. I'll do my best to route the line that way and agree trying to remove what's there is absolutely not worth it.

I did discover I was bleeding the slave with the rubber cap on the valve though 🫤. It still went through an entire bottle of fluid though so I think it still makes sense to replace those high wear/failure parts and switch to a braided line.

I finally stopped feeling sore today but still plan on taking the seat out so getting under the dash will be easier. When I got the car in highschool and installed a boost gauge I accidentally sat on the side skirt and broke it off LOL.
 
Got the line installed. It's kinda just hanging for now till I figure out what to do. I tried wrapping it around the old reservoir thing but it made the banjo at an angle that wouldn't go back on the slave. One tip I learned is to install the banjo from the front not laying under the car. I could NOT get the right angle laying on my back. Bled the clutch for what felt like an hour and still was getting bubbles. I did get pressure in the pedal though. I think the clutch has always been a little squishy but 4+ years of not driving makes it hard to remember. I did get the car back together and started AND THE WHEELS TURN. I did accidentally kill the car hitting the brakes while idling in first. Yes, I put it in gear on stands. Yes, I shook the car really hard in all directions first. No, I won't go under the car. No, I won't take it above like 2k in gear. The parking brake is set hard and I'm facing my garage so worst case is damage to the car. I thought after not rolling for 4+ years the drivetrain would appreciate it. Since my driveway would only let me move about 3 feet in either direction and the car isn't registered seems like the best idea.

I'm still wondering if I should have done JUST the new line first.... But since I've only done the intake piping and a boost gauge is was cool to work on it.

Also, when I was younger I had ambitions of doing the starter myself. Being all the way under the car for the first time ever I'm glad I took it to a professional. The way stuff is buried on this car (even the master/slave) jeez...

Oh and taking the seat out was 100% the move. For a few extra minutes it made things 1000x easier.
 
I'll do pix soon I can't get the K&N carb filter to fit on the MAF and extremepsi pipe... I'm guessing K&N made it for the flat plastic and I have Greddy uppers. I gave up on the car cuz of carb so.

*I have the stock snockel to compare
 
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